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CBR1100XX Super Blackbird 2003
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
Firstly thanks for the warm welcome on the Intros section.
I didn’t really want to be asking my first question(s) so soon, but before I go completely nuts trying to work these things out, I thought I’d give you all a go…
A couple of weeks ago just after filling up with fuel, I returned to my bike (an ‘03 FI model, for reference), flicked on the ignition and thumbed the starter. After a ‘click’, everything went off, and the bike was completely dead (no lights etc.). Eventually, I noticed the digital clock had returned to the dash and I flicked the ignition back on, and all was fine again and the bike started ok.
Keen to not repeat this episode, I have since checked all fuses (including the main fuse), checked the ignition switch wires and assembly (all fine) and now replaced the battery. Although the problem hasn’t returned yet, the battery does seem to still be draining at a slightly higher rate after running the engine (I don’t have a volt meter yet so can’t be sure), and since having a look under the seat I have a couple of other questions:

What is the small block behind the battery and next to the fuses/relays please, which is sealed and has yellow, red and green wires coming from it, as mine are slightly browned and I’m concerned this is either a problem or a problem waiting to happen?

Also, my reg/rec unit is not on the left-side of the subframe as it should be, but on the right (offside) and is part no. SH689A-12, which seems to be a Kawasaki part no.? Does anyone have any experience of this
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part and any idea whatsoever why it could have switched sides?

Finally, any other ideas on things to check regarding the original issue would be greatly appreciated, before I finally go out of my mind wondering if I have a major electrical gremlin on my hands…
Apologies for the sprawling question but if anyone has any insight I’d be very grateful!
Best, Karl.
 

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Possible electrical gremlins
1. ignition switch contacts inside switch (you ok'd wires)
2. RHS handlebar switchgear. This unit contains on/off + starter switches either of which can give this trouble.
3. Ensure battery is 100%

Clean with electrical spray contact cleaner for starters.


Looks like you have an older mosfet R/R from a kawasaki. This is a good thing.
 

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The unknown block is the tilt sensor - it kills the ignition if the bike ends up on its side.

The digi dash Blackbirds all have the r/r on the right side of the subframe.

It sounds like the charging system may not be working properly.
When you have a multimeter you can do some checks.
DC Volts over battery when engine running - should be between 13.5 and 15
AC volts from the stator - unplug stator from r/r and start engine
looking for 55vAC or better @4000 rpm across each pair of yellows ( 1-2, 2-3, 3-1 )
 

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CBR1100XX Super Blackbird 2003
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks both - Haynes manual reckoned RR was only ever on the LHS which is what threw me.
@fizzy I’ll try the switchgear and ignition this week and Dean, multimeter arrives tomorrow…!
 

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What they said, I would also check the top of the starter relay on the left side of the battery, if someone has been in there they mite have popped the main wire plug that clips on to the top of the relay, its where the main fuse is located, just incase, ive had it before on a bike i got a few years ago, I think the plug is red that plugs in to the top of it, with clips either side holding it on.
Multi meter is a must though, get one asap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The unknown block is the tilt sensor - it kills the ignition if the bike ends up on its side.

The digi dash Blackbirds all have the r/r on the right side of the subframe.

It sounds like the charging system may not be working properly.
When you have a multimeter you can do some checks.
DC Volts over battery when engine running - should be between 13.5 and 15
AC volts from the stator - unplug stator from r/r and start engine
looking for 55vAC or better @4000 rpm across each pair of yellows ( 1-2, 2-3, 3-1 )
First checks look good after running a mock with the new multimeter - brand new battery is around 14.8v @ 5,000rpm, which looks within spec. About 14.6v @ idle though, which may be a tad high? Next job is to tackle the stator’s output…
 

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First checks look good after running a mock with the new multimeter - brand new battery is around 14.8v @ 5,000rpm, which looks within spec. About 14.6v @ idle though, which may be a tad high? Next job is to tackle the stator’s output…
With those numbers I would say the stator is going to test good.
But I would still do the test to be sure each phase is equal.

Quite a few of us have upgraded to an FH020AA R/R unit with direct to battery connections.
voltages are much more stable and the charging is then removed from the bike loom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
With those numbers I would say the stator is going to test good.
But I would still do the test to be sure each phase is equal.

Quite a few of us have upgraded to an FH020AA R/R unit with direct to battery connections.
voltages are much more stable and the charging is then removed from the bike loom.
So I did the stator test anyway, and as you (rightly!) suspected, all good also (approx. 17v @ idle and around 55v @ 4,000rpm), so basically no fault found. Perhaps the ‘new’ battery previously installed was just a duff one? At least now I know all the checks to do if something happens again, and I’ll look into a FH020AA unit for when my Kawasaki one bites the dust. Thanks again.
 

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Thanks both - Haynes manual reckoned RR was only ever on the LHS which is what threw me.
@fizzy I’ll try the switchgear and ignition this week and Dean, multimeter arrives tomorrow…!
Digidash bikes all have rr on rhs near cowl opening for better cooling
My rr is sh 689 c and runs pretty cool
 

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So I did the stator test anyway, and as you (rightly!) suspected, all good also (approx. 17v @ idle and around 55v @ 4,000rpm), so basically no fault found. Perhaps the ‘new’ battery previously installed was just a duff one? At least now I know all the checks to do if something happens again, and I’ll look into a FH020AA unit for when my Kawasaki one bites the dust. Thanks again.
You say they were all around 55. If they deviate more than 3 volts it can be an issue for charging.
 

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Good deal
 

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Cheers Quicksilver,

Just for info...... my 05BB still has it's original R/R at 129k kms (81k miles), though the stator failed at 70k kms but didn't damage the R/R. I had it rewound and it's still going strong today.

Use the manual for the 02 BB here on the forum in the reference section...... should be better than the Haines.


You should be able to download this..... I did and it's been a mine of info....


The biggest R/R killer is an ailing battery disguised by constant battery charger usage. I don't use my charger much, certainly never constantly even though it is a smart charger. As soon as I detect a slow cranking action on startup, or measure less than 9.5v at first start of the day on my multimeter (no battery charger or riding in the prev 12hrs) I look for a new battery. I got 2.3 years to a battery when riding everyday (commuting/touring), but now, with very irregular use, the battery lasts longer - but I still check my battery health when I do my monthly run ups.

Your 03 has heavy duty wiring and big cooling fins compared to the carbie models - my cousin (a master mechanic) commented on this when I turned up at his workshop with a brand new 02BB way back in 2002, saying "well it took Honda long enough to fix that issue".........

Keep an eye on the volts - best to fit a voltmeter to the dash to make it easy to check at a glance - that will clue you into the inevitable stator failure (they get hot and can fail on any brand of bike using an end of crankshaft stator).

Seems a previous owner killed the original R/R so it's worth checking the system out as you shouldn't need to use a charger if you ride monthly or more.

(y)
 
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CBR1100XX Super Blackbird 2003
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Cheers Quicksilver,

Just for info...... my 05BB still has it's original R/R at 129k kms (81k miles), though the stator failed at 70k kms but didn't damage the R/R. I had it rewound and it's still going strong today.

Use the manual for the 02 BB here on the forum in the reference section...... should be better than the Haines.


You should be able to download this..... I did and it's been a mine of info....


The biggest R/R killer is an ailing battery disguised by constant battery charger usage. I don't use my charger much, certainly never constantly even though it is a smart charger. As soon as I detect a slow cranking action on startup, or measure less than 9.5v at first start of the day on my multimeter (no battery charger or riding in the prev 12hrs) I look for a new battery. I got 2.3 years to a battery when riding everyday (commuting/touring), but now, with very irregular use, the battery lasts longer - but I still check my battery health when I do my monthly run ups.

Your 03 has heavy duty wiring and big cooling fins compared to the carbie models - my cousin (a master mechanic) commented on this when I turned up at his workshop with a brand new 02BB way back in 2002, saying "well it took Honda long enough to fix that issue".........

Keep an eye on the volts - best to fit a voltmeter to the dash to make it easy to check at a glance - that will clue you into the inevitable stator failure (they get hot and can fail on any brand of bike using an end of crankshaft stator).

Seems a previous owner killed the original R/R so it's worth checking the system out as you shouldn't need to use a charger if you ride monthly or more.

(y)
Thanks, really helpful.
Voltmeter is on its way already (although ashamed to say I have no idea how to install it yet, but I’ll worry about that when it turns up), and now just need some better weather to get it road tested!
 

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When you fit your volt meter put an inline fuse on one of the 2 wires, also if you can, make your wires directly from your battery to your meter so you get a more accurate reading. Just get some heat shrink at the same time as your inline fuse and spades and do the job in one go. Take your time.
Oh and 1 last thing, what revs have you set your idle at? Usually it should be above 13v, but 14.6v at idle is a bit high, I'd check your reg/rec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Will do, trying to sort it so the voltmeter is only on with the ignition. I’ll get round to it.
Ref the idle voltage, idle is at around 1,200rpm, so within spec (recently adjusted, actually). Did think it was a touch high, I’ll check it again in any case. Hopefully it’s not new reg/rec time already…..
 

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When you fit your volt meter put an inline fuse on one of the 2 wires, also if you can, make your wires directly from your battery to your meter so you get a more accurate reading. Just get some heat shrink at the same time as your inline fuse and spades and do the job in one go. Take your time.
Oh and 1 last thing, what revs have you set your idle at? Usually it should be above 13v, but 14.6v at idle is a bit high, I'd check your reg/rec.
Only issue with direct to battery is that the meter stays on all of the time.

If you tap in to the thick green/white wire feeding the left switch gear - you get ignition live that reads within 0.1v of the battery.

Also - if you swap to an FH020AA r/r unit - you get 14.3v at idle and anywhere else in the rpm range because the mosfets are better quality and switch at a lower voltage to allow charging.
 

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Only issue with direct to battery is that the meter stays on all of the time.

If you tap in to the thick green/white wire feeding the left switch gear - you get ignition live that reads within 0.1v of the battery.
You could either just add a waterproof inline switch to control whether the voltmeter is on or off else use that green/white wire to trip a relay so the voltmeter still reads direct battery voltage but is ignition controlled.
 

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Hi all,
Firstly thanks for the warm welcome on the Intros section.
I didn’t really want to be asking my first question(s) so soon, but before I go completely nuts trying to work these things out, I thought I’d give you all a go…
A couple of weeks ago just after filling up with fuel, I returned to my bike (an ‘03 FI model, for reference), flicked on the ignition and thumbed the starter. After a ‘click’, everything went off, and the bike was completely dead (no lights etc.). Eventually, I noticed the digital clock had returned to the dash and I flicked the ignition back on, and all was fine again and the bike started ok.
Keen to not repeat this episode, I have since checked all fuses (including the main fuse), checked the ignition switch wires and assembly (all fine) and now replaced the battery. Although the problem hasn’t returned yet, the battery does seem to still be draining at a slightly higher rate after running the engine (I don’t have a volt meter yet so can’t be sure), and since having a look under the seat I have a couple of other questions:

What is the small block behind the battery and next to the fuses/relays please, which is sealed and has yellow, red and green wires coming from it, as mine are slightly browned and I’m concerned this is either a problem or a problem waiting to happen?

Also, my reg/rec unit is not on the left-side of the subframe as it should be, but on the right (offside) and is part no. SH689A-12, which seems to be a Kawasaki part no.? Does anyone have any experience of this View attachment 132966
View attachment 132965
part and any idea whatsoever why it could have switched sides?

Finally, any other ideas on things to check regarding the original issue would be greatly appreciated, before I finally go out of my mind wondering if I have a major electrical gremlin on my hands…
Apologies for the sprawling question but if anyone has any insight I’d be very grateful!
Best, Karl.
Just to let you know, the reg/rec you have is oem, same as my 04 uk bird.
I would just fit your volt meter and switch, and take it from there when your out, apart from what you described in your original post with all power loss for a mo on restarting, I take bird runs fine?.
 

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Only issue with direct to battery is that the meter stays on all of the time.

If you tap in to the thick green/white wire feeding the left switch gear - you get ignition live that reads within 0.1v of the battery.

Also - if you swap to an FH020AA r/r unit - you get 14.3v at idle and anywhere else in the rpm range because the mosfets are better quality and switch at a lower voltage to allow charging.
Totally agree with the switch idea, I forgot about that bit lol.
 
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