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Hey i am new to the forum. I just bought a 1998 1100xx it has 54k on the bike. Its my first XX. I had it for 1 day ran beautiful an came out of corner an got on the throttle a little bit harder than you would driving normal. An it i heard a tap coming from motor seemed more to the right side of motor. I checked timing chain tensioner seemed to be in working order. The oil seemed to be little thin so i did an oil change but the tap is still there any suggestions before i send to a shop. Only rode bike 3 times an already missing her really bad.
 

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Matt, get the double dot kind. John at "johns bike bits" I think its called has them. Recommend you also get a pack of push pins. You will need them to reinstall the bodywork. Like socks, they tend to disappear without a trace.
 

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Hey i am new to the forum. I just bought a 1998 1100xx it has 54k on the bike. Its my first XX. I had it for 1 day ran beautiful an came out of corner an got on the throttle a little bit harder than you would driving normal. An it i heard a tap coming from motor seemed more to the right side of motor. I checked timing chain tensioner seemed to be in working order. The oil seemed to be little thin so i did an oil change but the tap is still there any suggestions before i send to a shop. Only rode bike 3 times an already missing her really bad.
The CCT presents itself very well at 3 to 4000 rpm.
With the bike on its center stand fire it and warm it up. Then once it's warm slowly increase the throttle towards 3000 rpm. Continue up to 4000 rpm. If you hear the rattle come in then go away it's the CCT. Save yourself some money order and install it yourself. Its 2 8mm bolts and a gasket. Swap over the cover screw and your done. If you remove the fairing bolt under your right leg and the large one by your right knee you can access it without pulling the fairing.
 

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These are the push pins, if you need any. It's easy to loose the centers as you have to push them through to get the rivet out. I use these, Honda Motorcycle Fairing Plastic Pull Latch Rivet Clips pack 10 Fasteners | eBay
The heads stick out, but they're usually not notice and are easy to re-use.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have a new CCT on order. It really kinda sounds like a valve or at least the same kinda noise when valve rockers are loose in a car engine an it makes tapping at idle gets louder with throttle then get quite about 4000 then back at 4500 rpm.
 

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Well then here's an od school trick. Get you a long screw driver or a mechanics stethoscope. With the noise present. Start touching the top to the cases. Hold the handle against you ear. That way you can localize the sound. It will carry very well in the aluminum of the engine. So trying to locate is with your hearing alone can make it very hard. With the above method you'll know where it's at. Trust me it will be very evident once your closer or on top of it. You can actually get it to a cylinder if it is in fact a valve lash issue.
On another note I just realized if it is valves then the noise should reduce as the engine warms up. Does it do this?
 

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As above plus have you checked the oil? Is it contaminated/ diluted with fuel? I see you have a carby, there is a fuel shut off that can leak when the engine is off, and the carbs can overflow into the engine.
 

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I'd be thinking valve clearances. Nobody likes paying for it so it often goes without servicing. Not rocket science but I don't recommend trying it by yourself the first time, it's also easy to screw it up. But checking them you can do if you feel comfortable pulling the valve cover off.
 

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I'd be thinking valve clearances. Nobody likes paying for it so it often goes without servicing. Not rocket science but I don't recommend trying it by yourself the first time, it's also easy to screw it up. But checking them you can do if you feel comfortable pulling the valve cover off.
Possibly, but then it would be the odd one out as the XX is well known to be very good in that regard in as far as the valve clearances don't go out much 🤩
I bought my BB with 32 000km's on it from the original owner and he'd had the clearances checked at ~24k and they'd hardly changed, I have then had them checked at ~90k and 140k and they were still within specs 😎
Mine does have a bit of noise around 3-4k but that is actually from the cam chain, not the CCT as I replaced that at ~85k just because I wanted to. The mobile mechanic I use (ex race mechanic) said he could change the chain if I wanted to but it wasn't a big issue, may do it when the bike hits 160k on the speedo as she's on ~155k now but given I have a Speedohealer it'll be quite a bit higher 🤔
It could also be the clutch basket as that can get a bit noisy at idle but it usually goes away when the clutch is pulled in or revs rise 😏
 

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The CCT presents itself very well at 3 to 4000 rpm.
With the bike on its center stand fire it and warm it up. Then once it's warm slowly increase the throttle towards 3000 rpm. Continue up to 4000 rpm. If you hear the rattle come in then go away it's the CCT. Save yourself some money order and install it yourself. Its 2 8mm bolts and a gasket. Swap over the cover screw and your done. If you remove the fairing bolt under your right leg and the large one by your right knee you can access it without pulling the fairing.
What does CCT stand for please ??
 

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I have a new CCT on order. It really kinda sounds like a valve or at least the same kinda noise when valve rockers are loose in a car engine an it makes tapping at idle gets louder with throttle then get quite about 4000 then back at 4500 rpm.
G'day FloridaMatt98

My cam chain tensioner (=CCT) lasted until 114,000kms (errr wassat in old skool miles..... calculator.....71k miles ;)) ... When my mechanic (with me helping) changed it and installed a new cam chain we decided to swap out the exhaust shims nearest to the cam chain, as they were still in spec, but only just, (common for cam chain on the side motors) and we figured it wasn't worth doing all the work (body panels,tank,camshafts,etc etc) again just for one cyl's ex shims....... so 2 points to note here;-

1- when the CCT (cam chain tensioner) is buggered it rattles loudly....... believe me, I was hearing all sorts of noises while I was riding in anticipation of the CCT giving up...... when it did, it was a very very obvious loud continuous rattling/whirring noise...... even then, it was ok for a very limited time of gentle riding... say, if you had to get home or to the bike shop...... but best not left too long after it starts to rattle.......

2- the slightly wider than spec shim gap on my exhaust valve caused a faint tap tappity noise (which I was expecting) - it will slowly close up over the next 30-50,000kms and match the rest of the valves, which were all still in spec at 130,000kms/81k miles :)...... maybe your BB has had a valve adjusted slightly wide like mine.

If so, nothing to worry about, it is just a tappity tap or ticking sound you are noticing now that you are riding it more and it will be fine..... if it was super quiet I'd be worried about closed clearances and valves burning out. A throttle body vacuum adjustment will make it run super smoothly too..... out of balance TB's make for rough/noisy running and excessive handle bar vibrations.

(y)

PS Maybe check the oil viscosity used..... I run 10w50 semi synth (or in oil company speak "mid strength full synthetic" Motul 5100) in mine and change it every 4000miles (zero oil consumption from 0kms to 130k kms/81k miles)..... a full strength full synth oil might be more viscous and make your motor rattle a bit more if you are using a thinner 10w40 grade.......

Don't rush into a cam chain repair unless you are certain....... it's possibly due at 54k miles if your BB has been ridden hard, but mine lasted way longer with enthusiastic, but with mechanical empathy, use.
 
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