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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve fitted a new wiring loom to my 2006 bb from a 2004 bike, connected everything up, installed a used ignition barrel and top yoke and put my original key chip in- and kept the hiss halo, I’ve carried out the wiring loom fix on the yellow block near the battery and now it’s not working?

Turn the key and all the lights come on the dash as normal but the hiss light isn’t coming on and fuel not priming? The fi light is on permanently. The bike still turns over but won’t start as the hiss isn’t working and priming the fuel pump, if I run a wire to the pump it makes the noise like it’s suppose to, the kill switch is ok and the bikes not in gear.

The relay for the engine start has power but the hiss still won’t appear on the dash and prime the fuel pump?

The previous ignition barrel was faulty so as a temp fix I installed a carb ignition and taped up the hiss halo with the chip attached. It worked with no problems at all but not I’ve put this new wiring loom in it’s like the chip isn’t being picked up by the original ecu?

any ideas?
 

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was the wiring loom from a HISS model ?

Not sure if that would make a difference as I would expect all looms to be more or less the same apart from stuff like temp senders and digital dash

will have a look at the diagram and see if I spot anything


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJ8bP6hAZuQ

several videos about this, what I can gather is the ECU needs 9v from the HISS to enable starting - you need to check for the 9v coming from the HISS unit which also needs a power source (I assume 12v from ignition), if HISS is being powered up and outputs 9v then check ECU for same 9v

http://transalpclub.pl/danetcp/instrukcje/XL700V_Sevice_Manual/XL700V_Service_part21-Immobilizer(HISS).pdf

https://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/99088-help-us-ecu-wiring-harness-hiss-bike.html

plenty of info on HISS
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes the new loom from a uk 2004 blackbird and mines a 2006 blackbird so it’s just been a straight swap of looms, I’ve kept my original ecu, hiss receiver. The new loom didn’t have an alarm fitted or any other change so I assumed it should of been a plug and play? I’m wondering if the pink wire has become damaged coming from the hiss receiver? Would it be advisable to connect a multimeter to the pink wire on the connector to the front of the bike and the pink wire going into the ecu?
 

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Yes the new loom from a uk 2004 blackbird and mines a 2006 blackbird so it’s just been a straight swap of looms, I’ve kept my original ecu, hiss receiver. The new loom didn’t have an alarm fitted or any other change so I assumed it should of been a plug and play? I’m wondering if the pink wire has become damaged coming from the hiss receiver? Would it be advisable to connect a multimeter to the pink wire on the connector to the front of the bike and the pink wire going into the ecu?
that would be heading in the right direction lol

there may have been iterations of the HISS system between years after reading some stuff so it is difficult to say, I would check all the HISS wires and compare the 2 looms making sure they are the same and connected to the same ECU pins, some mention 9v others mention 12v and also the inclusion of 5v feed which the ECU outputs for other sensors and stuff - check them all
 

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I'm not sure that the HISS is your problem from what you have written
Turn the key and all the lights come on the dash as normal but the hiss light isn’t coming on and fuel not priming? The fi light is on permanently. The bike still turns over but won’t start as the hiss isn’t working …
If the HISS doesn't clear then the fuel pump doesn't fire up and the HISS light stays on (as you are seeing) but also you shouldn't be able to turn the motor over on the starter button, is that what you are seeing?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The hiss light isn’t coming on at all? The fi light is on permanently but I’m going to go over the loom fix again incase there’s anything missed. The bike still turns over via the starter button as per usual. It’s as if the chip isn’t being recognised but it should as it’s the original chip and ecu?
 

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Don't know who wrote this originally or if this will be of use in this situation but... you never know.


If the engine cannot be started, or to check for any stored fault codes even though the FI light is not illuminated, remove the seat to gain access to the fuel injectionsystem service check wiring connector, which is a white 3-pin ( 2 wire ) single sided connector inside the rubber boot close to the tail light.
Ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the outer terminals of the service check connector with an auxiliary piece of wire.
With the terminals connected make sure the kill switch is in the run position then turn the ignition ON and observe the FI warning light.
If there are no stored codes the FI light will come on and stay on.
If there are stored fault codes, the FI light will flash.

The fuel injection system warning light uses long ( 1.3 second ) and short ( .5 second ) flashes to give out the fault code. A long flash is used to indicate the first digit of a double digit fault code ( i.e. 10 or above ). If a single digit fault code is being displayed ( i.e. 1 to 9 ) there will be a number of short flashes equivalent to the code being displayed.
For example, two long flashes followed by five short flashes indicate the fault code number twenty five. If there is more than one fault code, there will be a gap before the other codes are revealed ( the codes will be revealed in order , starting with the lowest and ending with the highest ). Once all the code(s) have been revealed, the ECM will continuously run through the code(s) stored in its memory, revealing each one in turn with a short gap between them.

Once the fault has been identified and corrected, it will be necessary to reset the system by removing the fault code from the ECM memory. To do this, ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the terminals of the service check connector as before.
Turn the ignition ON then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector.
When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be reconnected.
The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased. However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated.
Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire.
Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once ) then replace the seat.


FAULT CODE
SYMPTOM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
1 Engine runs normally Faulty MAP sensor or wiring
2 Engine runs normally Faulty MAP sensor / vacuum hose
7 Engine difficult to start at low temp. Faulty coolant temp. sensor or wiring
8 Poor throttle response Faulty throttle position sensor or wiring
9 Engine runs normally Faulty intake air temp. sensor or wiring
10 ( see note 1) Engine runs poor at high altitude Faulty atmospheric pressure sensor
11 engine operates normally Faulty speed sensor or wiring
12 Engine does not start Faulty no. 1 fuel injector
13 Engine does not start Faulty no. 2 fuel injector
14 Engine does not start Faulty no. 3 fuel injector
15 Engine does not start Faulty no. 4 fuel injector
18 Engine does not start Faulty cam pulse gen.r or wiring
19 Engine does not start Faulty ignition pulse gen. or wiring
20 engine operates normally Faulty EPROM in ECM
25 engine operates normally Faulty knock sensor or wiring



The following codes are only applicable to models with catalytic converter.

21 engine operates normally faulty oxygen sensor
23 engine operates normally Faulty oxygen sensor heat element
 
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