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Discussion Starter #1
Recently I've bought my second Blackbird which is 2007 with 45.000 on the clock. It's almost stock except it has two R-77 Yoshimura slip-ons installed. It's a very well maintained and a very clean bike. Almost like brand new. I've had 1998 carburated model before and I have couple of questions which maybe you guys could help with. First of all, the only time my XX broke down before was because of the rectifier. From what I've seen so far, the only difference is that the rectifier is on the other side of the rear frame on 2007. Does 2007 XX still suffer from the rectifier issue? If so I'm going to put a spare rectifier under the seat just in case. My 1998 also had the clutch issue which was making basket noise and caused slippage from time to time. The 2007 doesn't have that issue. What do I have to check or do to avoid it to have it in the future with the new bike? Are there any issues specific to 2007 model that I should be aware of? Thanks in advance.

PS : I'm aware that It's technically a 2006 which was sold in 2007.
 

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Tongi, yes they still suffer from rectifier issues. Best solution is to upgrade to a mosfet type R/R, such as what is found here Home (roadstercycle.com) .
Use the search function on this site for even more info.
In your case, at the very least, mount a small voltmeter to the dash in order to be aware of any problems. When the R/R goes bad, the voltage usually spikes to 15V + . This high voltage will kill other components in short order. Battery voltage should not exceed 14.5V and is usually 12.5 - 14.5V depending on rpm.

Clutch issues seem to be few and far between, if it ain't broke, dont fix it.
 

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Agree with @fizzy The rule of thumb is that carbies suffered from RR issues, inj's suffered from stator issues.
But since they are both linked upgrading to the mosfet type RR (and associated wiring direct to the battery) is the best solution.
 

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I have a 2005 BB - owned from new in 2005, and in 129,000kms and 15 yrs, the only component to fail was the alternator coil (at 72,000kms). It is in a very hot location and gets oily, so like all 'end of crankshaft' alternators, is prone to failure. So The Duck nailed it.

My Reg/Rect is original and is significantly better than the 98 model as it has heavy duty wiring and cooling fins and is in a better location for cooling air flow.

Fitting an in dash volt meter is a great idea for day to day monitoring. My daily ride now is a KTM 1290SDGT - it has a voltmeter in the dash(y).... which I watch as I crank the beast into life checking for >9.5v cold cranking (1st start of the day, no battery charger for prev 12 hrs).

By all means convert to later tech r/r but read up and make sure the charging system stays balanced - Duck and Fizzy know heaps more about that as I haven't changed anything on my Bird...... except the usual consumables - and that alternator rewind way back at 72k kms..........:ROFLMAO:.

An 07BB......... beautiful (y)
 

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As stated above the later FI's weak link can be the charging system and CCT's. Follow the recommendations above. Jack makes a very good kit. I'd stay with a standard SH20 R/R style he carries.
Another recommendation would be to eliminate the factory connectors in the stator wires (3 yellow). These are prone to heating and failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks a lot for all the information. I'll look into upgrading to a mosfet type R/R. I know voltmeter would help but I would like to keep things stock. Fizzy said the clutch issue is not very common but most of the XX's I came across had that problem when I was looking for a XX to buy . I'm really worried about having that problem in the future.
 

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You mentioned 2 clutch issues.
1. Clutch rattle. They all (Honda , Suzuki etc) do it. Idle speed, in neutral, clutch out......it will rattle. Pull in clutch lever, rattle gone. This is normal.
2. Clutch slip. Not normal. Many possible causes. Very dirty clutch fluid, bent/corroded push rod, worn clutch springs/plates, wrong motor oil, damaged/wrong lever.

Highly recommend the voltmeter. Like a lifeboat on a cruise ship, it may detract from the clean lines but you wont care if you need it. I used double sided tape to attach mine to the top of the dash, which needs a double bubble windscreen as the stock item is too flat.
 

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Another thing that can cause clutch slip is the wrong oil. If you use a automotive oil with friction modifiers it can cause clutch slip. Easy fix seafoam additive/cleanet. Put it in per the can's recommendations. Warm the engine up and cycle through the gears a couple times. Let it run out for about 30 min to hour drain and see if it helps. If not repeat it again that should clear it out.

Rattle is easy fix bump the idle to 1200 minimum. Gives couple benefits, clutch basket rattle usually goes away and gives a little more charge output at idle. Stock R/R van come in as late as 2000 rpm.
 

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I can only state my experience (and years of reading this forum) but real clutch issues are genuinely rare.

On my 'daily bird' which has had a hard life commuting I changed the plates and springs at just under 100K miles. The springs were out of spec (just) but the plates were not. Idle is set at 1200 and apart from on very cold mornings I never hear a rattle or knock from the clutch.
The same bike suffered a failure of the push rod, the solid end which is bonded to the tube suffered bonding failure. I have never seen this on another bike.
The basket and cover are original and unmarked with 120K miles.

My supercharged Bird has much stronger springs and a Brembo master cylinder but the rest is standard. With well over 200 hp coming from the motor the clutch has never presented a problem to me.

IMHO if a clutch is giving problems it has been abused or, as has been suggested by others, the wrong oil has been used
(excluding Partsguy here who destroys clutches drag racing)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My older bird had the basket noise, I've also had slippage, not all the time but it kept coming back. It started with a grinding feeling on the clutch and started to slip after a while. But sometimes the problem just dissappeared from time to time and I just had the basket noise that disappeared when I pulled the clutch. I was using the proper oils and took care of the bike very well, but I don't know what happened or how it was used before me. It had 45.000 km on the clock but it's very common thing for people to mess around with the bikes milage here in Turkey. And it wasn't too clean. It was my first XX and I was inexperienced when I brought the bike. The one that I have now has no clutch issues and very well mantained. And I will keep it that way. I'll think about the voltmeter and see if I can somehow integrate into the dash. I'll see if they have nice looking ones. :)
 

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Cheers Tongi, Just to give you an idea on what to expect from a genuine 45k km old late model FI Bird.....

If the 06 FI really has only 45k kms as hoped, then you should have no issues until around 72,000kms when the stator/alternator might burn a coil out........(the on dash voltmeter will be a true friend by alerting you to this slowly happening, and might save getting stranded by the side of the road).

The next consumable issue might be a water pump seal starting to drip some coolant at about 95,000kms ( I noticed a loss of coolant in the catch tank). The new water pump has a drip hole in a better location so drops will be easier to see on the floor.

The cam chain & tensioner can last 114,000kms...... if ridden well and maintained properly. It will rattle loudly and continuously when finally it does wear out.

Some BB's that cop a flogging (abuse) and/or don't get coolant and oils and brake fluids changed regularly will wear items out sooner.

Your valve clearances likely won't need checking until 100,000kms....... I checked mine every 24k kms and they never changed from new (a lot of work for no result - which is good (y)). After 100k kms I noticed some wear as the cam chain started to run out of life. Even then, the only valves needing adjustment were the two exhaust valves on the cylinder closest to the cam chain - all the rest were still nice and wide per specs.....

So you can see, BB's are pretty easy to live with if they just get some maintenance - see the handbook for Honda's guidelines..... but from my experience with two BB's over 18yrs (and after being coached by my cousin the bike mechanic) is - Iridium plugs every 45k kms, oil & filter 6k kms (I use Motul 5100 or Motorex Top Speed 10w50 - not the higher spec racing oils), airfilter when dirty, coolant every 3 yrs, brake & clutch fluids every 2 yrs, fork oil every 20k kms, wheel bearings get a grease every 40k kms, chain and sprockets when worn (my oem chain & cogs were good to 100k kms! - very high quality - lubed when they look dry & shiny).

At 129k kms my brake rotors are original and not badly worn though I have cleaned the pistons and greased the slider pins every 2 yrs. Still have original brake hoses and the DCBS works fine - does take two people to bleed the brakes though.

Not easy work for inexperienced DIY'ers, but not hard if shown how to do it..... and BB doesn't need any work once serviced and tuned and fairings put back on..... until the next service is due...... usually........ it all depends on the quality of the workmanship and how it is ridden....;).

I run 36psi F & 38psi R - not Honda's BS 42/42 F&R pressures. I'd recommend finding an experienced mechanic that knows how to balance the throttle bodies using a set of fluid filled columns (commonly called fluid manometers or mercury columns) as they get really smooth results. FI BB stays in tune for a long time though.

Geeze, only 45k kms........ that should feel like a new bike - oops, forgot to mention, the stock roller ball bearings in the steering stem only last 35k kms - tapered rollers last 60k kms if not over tightened. You can check for steering stem 'play' by securely propping the front wheel off the ground (use center stand and carefully place a jack under the sump drain plug - low fuel weight helps when doing this - and then you can grip the front axle and gently push-pull checking for play, and also rotate the handle bars checking for notchy steering....... but your's should have been done 10k kms ago if that 45k kms is true...so you should be sweet (y)

Sorry got carried away - too much info too soon...... enjoy the BB and don't be worried about problems at this stage ;)
 
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Hey Dave,

That's not too much information at all and thanks for taking your time to share your experiences with me. I've been riding bikes for over 26 years now, had countless bikes over the years and I'm on my second BB. Got the first one about 5 years ago. It's pretty hard to find well mentained bikes here in Turkey and most mechanics are dishonest. So if you want to have a well mentained bike you have to get yourself a bit dirty and know about the bike. Luckily I've found a pretty good mechanic and he's also BB lover and knows about the bike pretty well. I also educated myself about the BB in those 5 years. It's the best bike I've ridden and I'm in love with BB. I don't think I'll be looking for another bike for a long time. Here's a couple of pictures of my new BB.

130660


130661
 

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The bird will never fit in that cage! :unsure:
:ROFLMAO:........ good one fizzy........ :D.......... a bit of humor put a smile on my dial (y)
 

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The cage doesn't have anything to do with the bird. 😂
Cheers Tongi,

Your BB looks new, and is fitted with high quality Yoshi exhausts..... a good sign the previous owner spared no expense maintaining the bike.

Fizzy has a sharp wit..... and the big bird cage in the background was just too tempting ........ we like our BlackBirds running free...... well, maybe caged at night for security ;).

Feel free to ask anything about the bike...... someone will know......... and down load the 99-02 workshop manual from the reference section - it often comes in handy when doing anything with the bike.

Lets hope the new year comes good for all as we hopefully get on top of the pandemic and tourism opens up again.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I also have the original mufflers, previous owner kept them and passed on to me. I also have a spare engine that I'm keeping for the parts. Birds and cages, I wouldn't even use those two in the same sentence. About that 99-02 workshop manual, is it a haynes manual that you're talking about? I have several service manuals that I've collected over the years. I have to see which one applies to my current bike.
 

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Tongue
No it's official Honda factory Service manual
 
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