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A few days back I noticed that my Neutral light was flickering and coming on while I was riding and doing 40mph in 3rd gear. I popped the accelerator and it went away. Now It wont come on at all. Even when the bike truly is in neutral. I have to start the bike holding the clutch in as if it was in gear. Then if I drop the stand (in neutral) the bike stalls out because it thinks its in gear. Don't get it... Where do I begin to check to find the issue?? :confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
 

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The Neut Switch is shown as item #9 in the fiche diagram. Hidden behind the counter shaft sprocket cover. The green wire in the photo's leads to the switch location. Chain lube and all manner of road grime gets packed into this location...but for some reason my bike is devoid of the normal build up here:D.
You may have a failed switch or simply a loose wire or poor contact between the switch and the wire. The cover is not a gasketed surface.


Tony
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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!! Er, say Tony, would those happen to be photos from the Haynes manual? If that's YOUR bike then you have a problem, buddy. :D
 

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Problem? Obsessive tendencies related to bike cleaning Compulsions are not in any way a Disorder in my book. (Lather, rinse, repeat. Lather, rinse, repeat. Lather, rinse, repeat. Lather, rins..............)


Tony "I feel dirty" Bagley


 

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He's right.. How many Q-Tips do you go through when you was that bike! LOL... Thank you for the info! I will try that today.
 

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Archos1,
Do not remove your counter shaft cover!!!! You don't really need to do this (remove the cover) unless your box of Q-tips is at the ready and your wanting to clean up behind the cover as some persons are want to do. If your bike is on the center stand you need only look very low and you can access the neutral switch without the cover removal. Spent the morning (cleaning) finishing the install of my new stator, new reg/rec and new battery,..just puttering around really and getting a couple little items squared away. Had a quick look in the area of the neut switch..and you don't need to "mess" (there's that dirty word again!) with the cover unless you really want to get behind it to see what kind of chain lube build up you've got goin' on.

Tony "is that grease under my thumb nail?" Bagley
 

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I really pleases me that im not the only one anal conciencious enough to keep a bike that clean..
 

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Tony 'I've got a spare hand as well' Bagley said:
but for some reason my bike is devoid of the normal build up here:D.
Impressive ..... 48 minutes from the time the OP posted his question for you to get your bike that clean, take photos and post them.
Sir I salute you:nworthy:
 
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Truth be known the photo's are from my XX archive photo collection related to a chain/sprocket install earlier in the year. But thanks anyway Duck. Ugly..I'll be sending out your membership card this week. It's not "Us" it's the rest of the world with a problem!

Tony "Wax on,...wax off" Bagley
 

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Tee Hee British humour strikes again .................. truth be told I don't think that area of either my Birds was that clean even before they were built!
 

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I decided to tackle the job of replacing my neutral switch.:cool:

Very easy to get to by removing the left hand fairing ;pull off the green single wire from the switch and inserting a 14mm extended socket onto the switch.

Turn anticlockwise and as it comes away petrol starts pouring out of the hole !!! black dirty petrol ????

Am I the only one with this problem surely the petrol has nothing to do with a neutral switch ?

My bike has been sat since the end of summer and got the neutral problem while it sat stored and not while I was riding fortunately.I do recall on a few occasions a slight blink of the light while I was going along but it was so quick I though I was halucinating briefly.

I have this morning decided to do the service work but obviously I need to warm the engine before draining the old oil.

My bike would not start in any scenario, clutch in or out in gear or not, side stand up or down, nothing. I shorted the wire to the switch this morning and the light appeared and the engine would turn but I only give it a blip on the starter to check it was indeed the switch and not a wiring fault without actually starting her up.

Now I knew it was the switch i went about removing it as already mentioned with the 14mm socket etc etc.

I quickly put the switch back in as I did not expect the fluid to start pouring out ???

Smells like petrol, and I though better than to light a match to see if it burns.:nono:

I then went into panic mode thinking that an oil seal had broken somewhere and had allowed petrol to fill the sump so I undone the oil drain plug expecting to see a very black, very thin liquid smelling of petrol to come running out.:huh:

Phew !!! its not gone into the sump.:thumb:

Any Ideas anyone ? this cannot be normal.:hmm:

I thought the switch was in the gearbox which shared the same oil as the engine.

PETROL !!!

WHERE OR HOW THE F"% DID THAT GET IN THERE ?????

I am totally baffled as to why I've got petrol pouring out.I did not wait to see if it stopped pouring out as I'll wait first for any suggestions and also find a large container before doing so.

Failing that I'll wait for a large cliff nd throw it off.:clap:
 

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Did you have the bike on the sidestand? Fuel will sink to the lowest point. If it were me, I would be changing the oil and checking for reasons I had fuel in the crankcase before running the engine again. The fpr can be one cause (sorry, tapatalk won't show me much of your info - are you fuel injected?) on injected birds, sticky choke on carbies.
 

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Did you have the bike on the sidestand? Fuel will sink to the lowest point. If it were me, I would be changing the oil and checking for reasons I had fuel in the crankcase before running the engine again. The fpr can be one cause (sorry, tapatalk won't show me much of your info - are you fuel injected?) on injected birds, sticky choke on carbies.
fpr ? tapatalk ? I'm not up on the lingo so I might need to start with A for apple and B for um, whats B for again ?

I've put her on the side stand since I've owned her and that has been since 2005. It can sit there for months at a time with no problems.

Its only been this summer when I noticed anything slightly abnormal.:hmm:

I need to recheck the oil as Now I'm thinking that there is fuel in the crank case only it was probably sitting on top of the oil. The reason why I drained a little from the oil drain plug to see how thick it was to confirm no petrol was in there, so I am probably wrong

I'm guessing now that there is petrol in there and that the neutral switch is also bolted into the crank case (gearbox side)

I dont know this for sure so I would like confirmation from one of you that the neutral switch is indeed bolted into the crank case where the engine oil is for both the engine and the gear box ? :crap:

I'll take your advise and drain and refill tomorrow before I start her up.:thumb:

Thing is, the fpr (assuming you mean fuel pump ?) would leave fuel in the exhaust as well as the crank case wouldnt it ? (at the lowest point)

sorry, it is an injected /lambda model, but I suspect now that petrol has contaminated the catalyts and messed up the lambda sensors as i did notice the ends of the cans going unusually black this summer (possibly the beginning of the problem)

so, you think I have a fuel drain problem ?

This may have caused hydraulic lock in the crank case or cylinders as I was having a starter problem in the mornings where the engine would just lock when going to start (prior to the neutral switch failing) I just thought I needed a new battery and got one.

It was also miss firing after starting and I just suspected that the plugs were coming to the end of their life.:nono:

I think I may have done some expensive damage to the engine not finding this leak sooner.:evilaugh:

I've still got three squares on the fuel gauge so I still have some fuel to lose, I will remove the neutral switch and see if it pours out again.:clap:

I did get a an empty oil can and cut the side out. I then completely removed the neutral switch and about 3 to four pints of petrol (black) came out but she has been standing for a few weeks now.

I dread to think what damage or extra wear I've done to her running it in this condition ? I did check the oil during the summer and it was as clean as a whistle but thinking back I dont think I checked it when things started playing up.

The oil is as black as your hat now:(:rant: (assuming you have a black hat:smilebig:)

Looks like I may be fitting another engine:plus1:
 

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I don't think you need another engine ... usually on FI bikes it's the FPR that goes (Fuel Pressure Requlator) and lets fuel into the engine .... A new FPR and you should be good to go (Oil change as well of course!) ... I think thats right (I'm not that up on FI as I'm a carbbie man)
 

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Yep, it sure sounds like the fpr is bad. It's only a few minutes to replace and a lot cheaper than a new engine. Swap it out, install some new oil (and a filter) and cross your fingers that the mains are still okay.
 

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I could need another engine as I have been riding it like that for quite a few miles as I thought it was something to do with the battery first of all.

I continued to ride after fitting a new battery as I then suspected the starter motor.:nono:

I must have done a thousand miles with my oil slowly thinning and collapsing at the same time always religiously sticking to the speed limits:hmm:

She has done a few miles under 90000 so a new FPR is not bad going for 6 years of ownership and only a case of MOT, brake pads, tyres and services, I have not even had to replace the clutch plates and only ever needed to change the dip beam lamp

Its a learning curve and sometimes a need to evaluate precisely when a problem occurs. I've messed up this time but like you both say "fingers crossed"

I'm going to do a winter strip down while I'm at it and raise the forks back up a bit as it was bottoming out on the mud guard a little:evilaugh:

A new neutral switch, fuel pressure regulator and a little prayer for the mains (I never heard any rattles but it did sound a bit tinny:crap:)
I'll be back up and running and hopefully well over the 100,000 mark and more. (its been serviced every 4000 give or take a 100 not more:clap:)

Thanks guys.
 

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I've never touched my fpr in 180,000 kms. I just swapped the fuel filter this year.
 

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Thats good going (112,000 miles) because of this I think I've reduced my engines life span a little but I'll have to see after I've put it all back together.

I'ts getting an immediate oil change when the new FPR is fitted(about a 10 mile warm up) but i'll use the old filter for this and then change the oil again with the new filter.

How much is a new FPR ?

I pulled the vacuum pipe off and found it to be full of petrol and then followed the pipe down to where it goes into the manifold. This is where the petrol has been going and its all down to small component like that.
 
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