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Discussion Starter #1
I got my wheels back yesterday, after having fitted new Roadsmart III to them. And it turns out that the "spoke" pattern is wrong when I mount the front wheel inn the tire's correct direction. The bend in the spokes go in the opposite direction of the rear wheel. Is that something that may affect riding, or is it purely a cosmetical problem? The shop is of course not open on saturdays...
 

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There is a small arrow cast on the wheels for direction.

I am sure there are thousands of riders out there riding with wheels and/or tires facing the wrong way.

Ride at your own risk.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The arrow is probably not visible, the wheels have been sandblastered and powder coated. I think I will get it fixed Monday, though.
 

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Yes get the tyre changed. As a stress engineer in my working life I should go into all sorts of technical reasons for changing it but suffice to say 'easy to do so just get it done' :)
 

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Duck, "easy to do"......on Monday. I think he wants to ride this weekend.

Don't you think we can let him go if he does his homework first and is back in time for supper?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Oh shit... (Pardon my French!) This is worse. A lot worse. I'm an idiot, and I deserve my wife killing me, which she will if this is as bad as I fear... I tried a few kilometers yesterday and then gave up because the brake was hanging, and it didn't let go after a bit of pumping. So this morning I took of the wheel to get it to the tire shop tomorrow, and the shock hit me. Badly...

I have to say that I have bad tinnitus, so I have to ride with ear plugs. What I didn't hear was that having the wheel and spacers the wrong way around made the disc grind the inside of my fork leg. I have floating discs, so the rings between the inner and outer part did it. I with a regular disk it wouldn't have been a problem. I spun the wheel before I put on the calipers and tightened everything and it seemed good, but it just didn't occur to me (since this is something I've never seen on any bike before) that I needed to swap the spacers too with the whell backwards. And tightening I pulled the fork legs closer, of course. And the damage was done.

I have taken a few pics, also a compare pic if the other fork leg. How thin is the metal there, and have I weakened the fork leg dangerously? Of course I had the forks overhauled last year too! The third shot is of the right fork leg, comparishment shot. I'm fearing a very late and expensive start to the season here! Not to mention the small matter of having to be resurrected by the EMT's when my wife's done with me... :hitfan:

From the inside:

Fork leg (2).jpg

From the front:

Fork leg (3).jpg

Other leg:

Fork leg (1).jpg

Me:

Idiot.jpg
 

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Seen a lot worse. Personally I'd rub smooth and paint over the damage and not worry about the fork legs- the bobbins are prob more of a worry if damaged and will require remedial work.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks! My ass is gratefull, this saved it from a rather bad whooping, courtesy of my wife! :D
 

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Hard to gauge how deep the gouge is from the photo but gut feeling says the same as Krisbiker2. The fork bottoms are pretty thick (need to get an internal gauge onto one to find out how thick) ...... will do that later if I can and have an appropriate sized gauge. Luckily I have some carbie fork bottoms handy, forgot to powder coat them last time I had the gun out .....
 

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OK. Internal dia 44mm (measured with accurate bore gauge).

On the fork bottom that I measured the outside diameter at between 52.6 and 53mm ...... which would suggest the wall thickness is between 4.3 and 4.5mm.

Do you have a pair of calipers that you can check the outside diameter of your fork bottom, this would be safer than relying on my measurement that came from ziplex's old fork bottoms!
The internal diameter will be the same since all the internals for the carbies were the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks! I actually don't think I have caliper available (when I sold my house I got rid of most of my tools), but I can probably borrow one to check that. But if the wall is more than 4 mm, and this is arounnd 2,5, would that small area of thinner wall be a problem? I mean like "fork breaking under hard braking" kind of problem. There is no leaking of oil, and I will see it if that happens.
 

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There should be more than enough meat in the casting to not worry about it for now. Clean it up paint it and start looking for a replacement. That way you can ride and wait for a good deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh, I was hoping I could never worry about it... For one thing replacements are expensive in Norway, for another, I just had it overhauled and painted last thing before the winter.
 

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Assuming the wall thickness is the same (can't see any reason why it wouldn't be but if they have been blasted down in the past that would have reduced the dia slightly) then I would be tempted to fill the gouge with JB weld or one of the 'plastic metals' (epoxies) that are available, rub down and repaint. You need to get that area covered, since it gathers all the road crud.

Yes I know stuff is expensive in Norway. From previous experience with another forum member in Norway there isn't an easy way to 'smuggle' bits in from the UK ........ or is there?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks! No, they've never been blasted, they were original when my paint guy rubbed them with sandpaper and painted them after the full overhaul. And no, there isn't a good way to smuggle, only if you travel yourself. ;) But I will measure the worst spot in the middle tonight, I'm borrowing a gage.

But seriously, is this something that could lead to a catastrophic failure like "oh, i just went of the road because my fork suddenly broke", or is it something that can crack over time, without a sudden breakage?
 

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Probably not bad enough for any problems, it's only a small area, I'd think the biggest risk would be it going porous before anything else and I'd guess that's very unlikely. I've sanded down forks with far worse road rash on the outside and never had any problems. I wouldn't try filling it, just smooth it out and get some touch up off your painter. If it makes you happier, keep an eye on it and see if it does start to show signs of leaking, easier if not filled. Biggest issue will probably be your brain knowing it's there and wondering if it's ok, if that's the case, change it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks! Actually my brain kan block out a lot of stuff for about 300 quid! ;) I may just paint it with Hammerite direct to galvanized paint since it's clean now.
 

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Oh, I was hoping I could never worry about it... For one thing replacements are expensive in Norway, for another, I just had it overhauled and painted last thing before the winter.
Ooops
 
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