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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My battery died a few days ago. I got a new one 11 months ago. The bike charges a little bit but not enough for both the engine and the lights.
I removed the covers and had a friend check the wires and connectors to try to figure out why it's not charging correctly but everything looked good so we didn't get anywhere. We're not exactly experts.
Anyone have any tips?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Test the stator with a multi meter. Unclip stator connector, it has 3 wires. Lets call them A, B and C. With the bike running (now on battery power alone), test the voltage stator output all 3 ways. .A to B, B to C and A to C. Should be about 60V @ 5000rpm, also, the readings must be equal to each other.

FYI: running with a bad battery and/or stator can damage the R/R and visa versa.
 

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Thanks a lot!
The stator was changed last year along with the battery and when that broke it didn't charge at all.
What make stator did you use when you replaced it?
On rare occasions, if you dropped a faze in your stator when the engine is running even at 4000 revs, you mite still get 12 to nearly 13 volts, but obviously it just isn't enough.
Like fizzy put, get a multimeter on it and check the stator and reg/rec but make sure you have a good fully charged battery before you start checking things out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What make stator did you use when you replaced it?
On rare occasions, if you dropped a faze in your stator when the engine is running even at 4000 revs, you mite still get 12 to nearly 13 volts, but obviously it just isn't enough.
Like fizzy put, get a multimeter on it and check the stator and reg/rec but make sure you have a good fully charged battery before you start checking things out.
It was changed by a workshop so I don't know but they don't use cheap parts and have a lot of knowledge.
The bike was fine all last autumn with the new stator and has been fine this year but after a short stop after ca. 40 km on my last trip it barely started and when I got home the battery was almost completely dead. So it happened suddenly.
I only get a bit over 11 volts at 5000 rpm when the lights are off.
The battery is now fully charged again and I'll try to check some more tomorrow.
 

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It was changed by a workshop so I don't know but they don't use cheap parts and have a lot of knowledge.
The bike was fine all last autumn with the new stator and has been fine this year but after a short stop after ca. 40 km on my last trip it barely started and when I got home the battery was almost completely dead. So it happened suddenly.
I only get a bit over 11 volts at 5000 rpm when the lights are off.
The battery is now fully charged again and I'll try to check some more tomorrow.
You may also have dropped a cell on the battery. Let's hope its that because its your cheapest fix.
 

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Only 11v at 5k rpm :eek:. There is something very wrong with the charging system. My BB had stator failure many years ago (@ 73k KMs....now @130k KMs and running as new). I had my stator rewound by a errr, rewinder business that has a great reputation. They used slightly heavier gauge wire. It has been faultless ever since.

Best find the real cause before spending big. What brand or type/size of battery did you have? Maybe it has a fault. I've had a faulty charger take a battery down.

Does your model BB need the 'loom fix' ? Have you tried a leakage test to check for ageing electrical components draining the system......maybe fizzy or bees can explain the test better as I have forgotten the details.

The system should be pumping 14.3v from 1500rpm but not exceeding 15v @ 5k rpm, and at 1100 idle it should read 13v (unless converted to MOSFET r/r which pumps 14.3 out at idle) which is not charging the battery eg while idling at lights or trickling slowly in traffic jams.

Good luck tracking down the issue (y)
 

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It was changed by a workshop so I don't know but they don't use cheap parts and have a lot of knowledge.
The bike was fine all last autumn with the new stator and has been fine this year but after a short stop after ca. 40 km on my last trip it barely started and when I got home the battery was almost completely dead. So it happened suddenly.
I only get a bit over 11 volts at 5000 rpm when the lights are off.
The battery is now fully charged again and I'll try to check some more tomorrow.
Definitely looking like a stator or reg/rec,, I would do the stator test like fizzy stated.

Pain in the arse as it is, sometimes just because you get new parts fitted doesn't always mean they don't fail again.

If you do the stator reg/rec tests you will find it, there's a few youtube vids on how to test them as well with a multimeter.
 

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It was changed by a workshop so I don't know but they don't use cheap parts and have a lot of knowledge.
The bike was fine all last autumn with the new stator and has been fine this year but after a short stop after ca. 40 km on my last trip it barely started and when I got home the battery was almost completely dead. So it happened suddenly.
I only get a bit over 11 volts at 5000 rpm when the lights are off.
The battery is now fully charged again and I'll try to check some more tomorrow.
HI the biggest killer of stators is bad wiring this is common on this model if your wiring connections should be shinny copper looking, if dull and oxidized these are bad for circuits
 

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Yes that's true. Clean earths and contacts make a huge difference.

My engine building and electrical problem solving master mechanic cousin once told me that any stator on the end of a crankshaft will eventually fail due heat and oil contamination, and fractures in the fine winding wire from the automated manufacturing process can fail at anytime........

He put me onto Small Coil Rewinds in Geelong Vic to have my stator rewound with thicker wire (when it failed back at 73k kms) because he had used them many times before and he knew their workmanship was good - they hand wound with special load limiting tools to ensure no stress fractures in the wire, but that was 10yrs ago, so who knows if the same guy is still doing the work today or if he is on a yacht sipping martini's somewhere warm......:unsure:.

The best type of alternator I know of was the external 'car' type like those used by Yamaha, where the alternator is piggy backed onto the rear of the cylinders, air cooled and not contaminated by engine oil. They lasted forever or until the brushes wore out......I had one on a FZR1000 Exup, never had a problem in the 150,000kms I put on it before discovering Honda's best kept secret.....the BB.

For sure dirty contacts and ailing batteries demanding constant current to stay topped up don't help the charging system. That's why it's so important, when testing voltages, to leave the battery charger disconnected for 12 hrs before doing a CCV test.......to get a true result not affected by continuous charging or riding just before testing - batteries are really sneaky critters......and they don't last forever, so if anyone's battery is 3+yo it would be a good idea to read up the 'cold cranking volts' test and keep an eye on that battery - if you find you need to charge it every night before the next ride day, it is most likely beyond it's useful date and stressing the charging system ;).

(y)PS For those in Aus, a good cheap battery is the SSB (short for Strong Start Battery) it has higher cca than a Yuasa. I used cheap Chinese sealed AGM batteries for decades too without issue, and just changed them every 2 years (riding every day to work and on weekends means lots of start stop cycles) so as soon as I noticed a slow start on a ride I knew the BB was telling me it wanted a fresh battery. Now I'm at leasure (put out to pasture/beyond my useby date/...old... :ROFLMAO:) I don't ride every day and my batteries last longer, but I still test them to make sure they are up to specs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thanks a lot for all your tips. A few are beyond my comprehension :)
I got the flu last week so I haven't done anything since my last post except for checking again with a fully charged battery today. When the lights are off it will charge at 14.37 - 38 at 4000 rpm. But as soon as I turn the lights on it falls to 12.5-ish. At idle it's around 13.5 - .6 with the lights off.
 

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Twowheels, I had this same issue with my 99 bird. I lived with it for several years and several batteries. After the fix, my charging system works perfectly and I have no issues. My problem was the connector for the regulator/rectifier. Honda made a boo boo when they designed this connector. It does not carry enough current and over time the contacts get hot and the connection deteriorates. Your symptoms sound just like mine so before you change any expensive parts, do a simple test. Take the bike out for a good ride. When you get home, remove the rear cowl and feel connector on the LHS that goes to the RR. If its hot, it needs fixing. The best fix is to simply remove the connector and solder all the wires together. Cleaning the connector is a temporary, marginal solution. You will notice the difference right away with brighter lights and a fan that actually cools the engine. Your battery will be charged all the time too. Good luck!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Twowheels, I had this same issue with my 99 bird. I lived with it for several years and several batteries. After the fix, my charging system works perfectly and I have no issues. My problem was the connector for the regulator/rectifier. Honda made a boo boo when they designed this connector. It does not carry enough current and over time the contacts get hot and the connection deteriorates. Your symptoms sound just like mine so before you change any expensive parts, do a simple test. Take the bike out for a good ride. When you get home, remove the rear cowl and feel connector on the LHS that goes to the RR. If its hot, it needs fixing. The best fix is to simply remove the connector and solder all the wires together. Cleaning the connector is a temporary, marginal solution. You will notice the difference right away with brighter lights and a fan that actually cools the engine. Your battery will be charged all the time too. Good luck!!!!!
The connector for the regulator looks fine. I checked it and no problems there. I've heard that that connector can be a problem but mine looked good inside.
But I'll try to drive a bit tomorrow and see if it get's hot. Do you have any idea of how far or long I have to drive?
 

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The connector for the regulator looks fine. I checked it and no problems there. I've heard that that connector can be a problem but mine looked good inside.
But I'll try to drive a bit tomorrow and see if it get's hot. Do you have any idea of how far or long I have to drive?
It shouldn't take more than a few minutes and will depend more on the state of charge of the battery. More current, more heat. If you can ride it with the cowl off you can check it with your hand as you ride. This is a known issue with our bikes so check it carefully before you do anything else. Good luck!
 

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It should be 4000revs approximately 14,2 to 14,6 so long as its below 15v is good, all this with lights on.

If you only get 12.5v with lights on 4000revs, you mite have dropped a faze in your stator, and you need to do a stator test, its pretty straight forward.
Usually when you get more than 15v at any revs its reg/rec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
The bike's at a workshop now. I had to give up. Hopefully it's something that's not too expensive to fix.
I might have figured it out myself eventually but a week and a half from now I'll be at a motorcycle meet with about 1500 people and I just want the bike to be fixed by then.
 
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