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Don't let it get hot. Stay below 220 degrees F. If it hits 220, shut it down; pull over; whatever you have to do.
Don't let it idle.
Don't rev up high.
No high throttle settings. No WFO.
Very smooth throttle transitions.
Do not stay at same RPM for any length of time. Constantly accel/decel/switch gears.
Don’t Exceed:
  • 5500 RPM First 100 Miles
  • 6000 RPM Second 100 Miles
  • 6500 Rpm Third 100 Miles
  • 7000 RPM Fourth 100 Miles
  • 8000 RPM Fifth 100 Miles
  • At 600 miles change the oil (use dino oil). Totally unnecessary to do prior to this, and a waste of money.
  • After oil change, ride it however you want.
  • At 2000 Miles, switch to synthetic oil.
 

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Hi

I have a couple og Q's for you.

Where do you have this procedure from ?? - you or Honda

When you say "No WFO" what do you mean by that ??

When you say "Do not stay at same RPM for any lenght of time" how long is too long ?? - and how many RPM's is not "the same", is a 100 RPM lower or higher enough ??

I am really interessed in this, because I'm planning on buying a brand new XX this year.

Thanks

/John
 

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There is some dispute about the effectiveness of the above mentioned method. It's possible that it will result in a motorcycle that has significantly less power than another of the exact same model broken in like this.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

(this is how I broke in my turbo XX)
I think I remember eliXXer saying this is how he did his as well.
 

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There is some dispute about the effectiveness of the above mentioned method. It's possible that it will result in a motorcycle that has significantly less power than another of the exact same model broken in like this.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

(this is how I broke in my turbo XX)
I think I remember eliXXer saying this is how he did his as well.
Yeah I know that dude :eek: ...I would NEVER do that to a brand new bike ...I'll bet it would be great for a racebike though - break that MF in fast and go-go !!! - durability is not an issue .....it IS for my bike !!! :)

The piston rings will seat eventually no matter what ...I can wait :).

/John
 

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Oh and by the way ....I haver never heard people complaining of powerloss by breaking in the bike "the Honda way" have you ???

I think it's plain old stupid brakin in there bikes that way, just because a guy on a website says so, and have the pictures to "prove it"

No friggin way, I'll trust Honda on this one ....afterall they build the bike, not Motoman :nono:
 

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One thing I would add to the Honda way, however -- heat cycles.

We have iron sleeves and oil is the cheapest metal you can buy. That said, when you first get your new XX, let it warm up to operating temperature then shut it off. (Idle it, rev it gently in neutral, no need to drive it yet.) Let it cool down to the touch (be able to touch any part of the engine or header without burning your hand...) Repeat this 2 or 3 times, then change the oil.

There are a number of things that go into an engine upon assembly that you really don't want under normal operating conditions -- mainly the moly based paste used as a prelube. In addition, any additional foreign particles get washed out either into the filter or into the oil very quickly and they sink deep into the pan so that they can be drained. Drain your oil when warm enough that it almost burns you so that you can get a fast enough drain to pull that crap out of your motor.

As far as how I break in my engine? Yes, I did use the linked method from Forrest 3 times now. Each time I had extremely good ring seating and wear indication later on. I also run my motor a lot fewer minutes (notice, not miles, not hours...) than your average XX user. My experience with the dyno break in method has actually led to better sealing than my 1st break in that I used the Honda method on. Real data:

Honda Break-in Method: (cylinders 1, 2, 3, 4 from left to right and higher numbers are better)
Leak down %: 96, 94, 95, 97
Compression: 114, 116 118, 109

Dyno Break-in Method:
Leak down %: 98, 97, 98, 99
Compression: 122, 121, 124, 122

Cam timing, valve seat condition, and valve condition are all variables here, but in general I found that the quick break in set the rings well and quickly with a perfect wear pattern. It could also be that I am getting better and setting ring end gap and positioning them.. Or my overlap changes meant more on the compression cycles, or or or or...

Bottom line: I don't have time to put 600+ miles on a drag bike, I do change the oil often. Once after 2 heat cycles, once after 30 minutes of dyno time, and then after every heavy workout. I don't think anyone else on the board pushes the ponies I do, however.
 

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Oh and by the way ....I haver never heard people complaining of powerloss by breaking in the bike "the Honda way" have you ???

I think it's plain old stupid brakin in there bikes that way, just because a guy on a website says so, and have the pictures to "prove it"

No friggin way, I'll trust Honda on this one ....afterall they build the bike, not Motoman :nono:
I broke mine in the way I did due to recommendations from the two top mechanics in this area. One being the guy that rebuilt mine after the "incident".
Both said the same thing, do a few heat cycles, vary the rpms, change the oil in the first 50-100 miles and then run it like you stole it.
Being a multi-national corporation that has lawyers on staff who spend all day trying to limit the companies risk of lawsuits, Honda may have other things on it's mind then just how to get the most performance from one of their motors. The Honda way undoubtedly is the safest method for the rider who may have spent the summer following the MSC they took to get their license riding around town on a shadow 750 that suddenly decides it's time to get an XX. Do you really think that even if it prolonged the life of the motor 2 fold they would recommend WOT accellerations as break in?
How many millions would they have to pay out because some idjit decided to "break in" his bike in a residential neighborhood? Unfortunately most things are geared toward the lowest common denominator.
My bike has around 22000 miles now, all of them with the addition of the turbo. As far as I can tell she's holding up fine.
I will add when I bought my '97 new I broke it in more aggressively than normal. The '00 I bought later had the "baby" treatment done by the previous owner. The '97 was quite a bit stronger running. Was it the break in? I think so.
 

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It is nice to see someone with real date on this subject.
Anyway,I`ve alwayes used Motoman way,even before I was aware of his existance,just simply could not resist,,,,,,,,,,,.Plus my seventh mechanical sense.

Honestly, with modern engines it is overplayed,but with Motoman you will get perfect ring seal for sure,like 100%,with gentle brake in it takes much longer and your chance for perfect seal is only 99%.

If your motor does not survive hard brake in it means it was P.O.S. anyway, it is better to have it replaced under warranty then being stuck with lemon thru the rest of your ownership,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 

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I've built lots of caterpillar, cummins , mack diesel engines and I warmup the engines make sure there's no leaks or problems. And then I put a load on the engine, if its in a truck I go up a mountain road and load the engine,not lug the engine. If it's a powershift transmission I bring the engine to high idle(full rpm) lock the brakes and stall the engine in 3rd gear. This seats the rings. I think Mr Moto man probably knows what he's talking about.:)
 
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