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Finished this up this week, soldered the connections, used some heat-shrink tubing, then ties to the main loom Here's pics:


Also, thimble didn't work for me, but that's fine...

1100xwiring14.JPG 1100xwiring15.JPG 1100xwiring16.JPG
 

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Has anyone fixed successfully fixed this problem in a later model 'bird. I have a 2002 model which is showing the same symptoms. The "offending" part is obviously not in the same spot. Any ideas?? I'm all ears... and no..... That is not a Prince Charles joke......
 

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banksy20, im gathering you have pulled the cowling off and had a real good look around, mines an 03 mod and was on the L/H/S
 

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Hello Fellas, I was please to come across this site dedicated to the BLACKBIRD, I am the second owner of a 1999 US model. The day I purchased it and was taking it home the F1 light illuminated within a 40 mile travel, at the time the bike has approximately 3300 miles on it. I have since placed about 1100 additional miles on it. Here recently I have located and removed the 19-Pin coupler for manufacturing purposes only, which I retrieve that info from this forum. No, that has not fixed my issue, the light still comes on. The bike performance so far has not suffered other than not cranking at all from time to time, with a clicking coming from the electronics area under the seat. Now I am getting the fault code of 25 displaying, that may have been due to me flushing the radiator and installing a new thermostat, hopefully. Just in case the knock sensor does check bad how do I check it and does anyone know what the specifications are for the sensor and what does it take to fault the PGM-F1 Light? For the price and availability of the sensor it may not be tangible to purchase. Also where can I retrieve a Electrical schematic of the PGM-FI and all of its parameter readings for faulting? I appreciate any and all positive feedbacks, just to let you guys know the problem is not just isolated to Down Under.
 

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Thanks for this writeup! Just gonna add my pictures for anyone else in the future who may be interested.









In the first picture, you can see the loom tape and insulation had actually been worn through to the copper. This is the big ground wire on the 10 green wire side. I did not see any hot wires that could have been shorting it, and I'm sure that would pop a fuse, anyhow. Since this is a thicker wire, it's got to be a main ground, so if it's touching frame with a crappy connection, I would guess excess amperage could be drawn through that point. Corrosion in the cap isn't so bad, but the big ground connector was burnt! The wire insulation was also melted and fused with the wire next to it! I could definitely see how trying to pull too much current through this connection would only further degrade it, though.
 

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I also had a question for everybody. Has anyone had problems with the other harness test blocks? As I was poking around last night, there is another GREEN test block on my bike under the fuel tank, left side, completely exposed (no loom tape around it), which gives me the feeling someone's been in there before. I think there is another smaller one on the front subharness.
 

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For anyone still looking at this and soldering doesn't seem like an option (I tried the thimble full of solder but in an apartment I couldn't make it work, today I used a copper 'split bolt' and I'm back up and running perfect.
Similar to this but smaller:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blackbu...-STR-Split-Bolt-Connector-6SBC-B2-5/100165861

p.s. someone had already tried to do this fix with a screw cap connector... not sure how long it had been like that but did fail on me.
 

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Hi lads. I posted up a thread on this exact problem I'm having. Got some very helpful pointers but still have difficulty locating the tester socket that seems to be the problem. Could you have a look at the attached pics and point it out.. going by description it's one of these two. Cheers.
 

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Hi lads. I posted up a thread on this exact problem I'm having. Got some very helpful pointers but still have difficulty locating the tester socket that seems to be the problem. Could you have a look at the attached pics and point it out.. going by description it's one of these two. Cheers.
The one marked with red arrow
20180726_211951_1532636900799.jpg
 

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Hi lads. I posted up a thread on this exact problem I'm having. Got some very helpful pointers but still have difficulty locating the tester socket that seems to be the problem. Could you have a look at the attached pics and point it out.. going by description it's one of these two. Cheers.
The one marked with red arrow
View attachment 115077
Appreciate that. So just take off the housing and solder each wire directly?
 

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Appreciate that. So just take off the housing and solder each wire directly?
Yes, directly.
STex
Appreciate that. So just take off the housing and solder each wire directly?
The brown plug ends up with 4 groups of wires when you are finished

View attachment 115087 View attachment 115089 View attachment 115091
Thanks lads. By the looks of things someone else has already been in here before me..
 

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So I've ignored my F.I. light for oooh 'bout 15 yrs. as it hadn't affected anything and I'm lazy and I don't have a soldering nor have I used one except poorly in grade 9 shop class. But since I just put the motor back in and everything is apart.....other than the fact I'm missing races like crazy I figured now would be a good time. Also I am repairing EVERY issue the bike has.So cut it open today and naturally it looks like this,
TEST PLUG 005.JPG TEST PLUG 009.JPG TEST PLUG 010.JPG TEST PLUG 011.JPG

I only saw 1 hole in the tape and the wire insulation looks good.
 

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Even though the insulation on the wires looks good it is worth stripping it back an inch or so to see if there is any corrosion/blackening since this has to be cut out as well to get a good fix. In the past I have had to cut out 9" on one loom to find decent copper, had to extend that wire to make the bunches neat!
 

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Continued on. Ended up with two groups instead of four. See my pic for explanation on that. Usually the Fi error would appear in less than 15 miles down the road. Took a 40 mile spin last night after putting it all back together and no sign of the error. Will do several longer spins before I'll say it's fixed but it's looking good. Thanks for the help lads. Appreciate it
 

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Re: 1999-2000 Honda CBR XX Flashing FI Light Fix

I ballsed up the first attachment above (414) this is what it should have shown:rolleyes:
View attachment 424


PLAN B
This is the hardwire method that you may want to use first rather than last as it is a more permanent fix.
The block has 20 poles, 19 wires go into it and within the male portion of the block it joins one row of 10 on the one side (all green earth related wires)and 3 lots of 3 on the other side with one unused terminal. All confirmed with a multimeter.
Cut the wires off the connector on the 3x3 side first..they are in their own colours so you don't get to mix them up.
When I stripped the insulation off the copper wire was black for a fair way up, there isn't really enough length to try and cut them back to perfect shiny copper so I cleaned them with a small wire brush and contact cleaner. Soldered the three wires together then used 2 layers of heatshrink tubing to seal them
View attachment 421
View attachment 422
For the main block of 10 the easiest way is to leave the main thicker earth on its own, solder the remaining 9 into three blocks of three. Used a small piece of heatshrink to hold all of them together then dipped them into a "thimble" full of heated/melted solder, sprayed a bit of water on it to cool it down and ended up with all ten soldered together.
Heatshrinked them, covered everthing in silicone grease and taped everything up to the main loom using self amalging rubber tape to seal it.
View attachment 423
Started first time, FI light hasn't come on and hopefully thats it. I can see that when it does start to go you might as well hardwire it. If damp has got into the terminals it has also got into the actual wire and connections as well which you can't clean up so it is going to go again anyway.
Fairly easy to do, just take your time, it can be done on your own as I did but would have been easier to have an extra pair of hands to hold the wires in the right position when you are soldering.
I did the harness fix on a 2000 CBR1100xx. The symptoms were an FI light on all the time, sometimes dim, sometimes bright, FI light flashing dim and bright when turn signal indicator was on. FI light getting brighter when the front brake lever was pulled? Weird. Engine dying when riding in town when the radiator fan came on. Bike would restart, but stumble then die at the next traffic light. The wiring loom at the block looked good. No moisture. The cap on the block also looked good, I was getting worried, but continued. I found that the copper strands in one of the large green wires was a little discolored which was a good sign that something was going on. Sure enough after completing the repair, No More FI light! Problem solved! Thank you for the great post!
Jeff
 
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