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dangerdre, glad you found this thread, the test plug on my 2000 was inside the frame near the battery box on the left side of the bike, I think I recall someone said that on later bikes it was moved slightly further up the harness and at a different angle to the older bikes to help stop water/moisture getting into the plug. Have a look at you wiring harness around the battery box and you will notice a rectangular shape wrapped up in tape, about the size of a matchbox,this is the test plug, used once for factory testing then wrapped up and forgotten,good luck and take your time, read the post and check the photos carefully as I didn't when I did mine and f'''d it up.

I think that this issue never really started raising it's head till the 'birds were getting on a bit and Honda didn't want to blemish the Blackbird's image.

muzz.
 

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dangerdre, glad you found this thread, the test plug on my 2000 was inside the frame near the battery box on the left side of the bike, I think I recall someone said that on later bikes it was moved slightly further up the harness and at a different angle to the older bikes to help stop water/moisture getting into the plug. Have a look at you wiring harness around the battery box and you will notice a rectangular shape wrapped up in tape, about the size of a matchbox,this is the test plug, used once for factory testing then wrapped up and forgotten,good luck and take your time, read the post and check the photos carefully as I didn't when I did mine and f'''d it up.

I think that this issue never really started raising it's head till the 'birds were getting on a bit and Honda didn't want to blemish the Blackbird's image.

muzz.
Yeh, thanks for leading me here and staying with me on the other thread - hopefully my problems are down to this connector, and if that is the case - and where it was causing the bike to cut out while driving - then I think a recall should definitely have been done as anything that can lead to the engine to stall unexpectedly mid-manouevre is a fatality risk IMHO.
 

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dangerdre said:
then I think a recall should definitely have been done ....
Honda refused. They denied the issue affected more than a few isolated Birds (but replaced a fair few looms FOC in the UK) ...... there was a lot of pressure back in 2000 from UK riders (I was one) who first 'discovered' the issue. Honda quietly moved the plug to the RH side of the frame (different number of test cables as well) with the digi dash models and the problem became much less ...... but corrosion does get into this 'new improved' loom, just not as quickly as it did with the 99 models which started showing the problem in under a year.
 

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Thanks for that Duck. This is my third bird and second FI and I'd never come across this issue. My previous FI was a 2006 with less than 20k while I had it and it never skipped a beat. Current bike is 2005 with only 16k and any electrics I've already examined have been fairly spotless so there's part of me hoping the issue I'm having isn't related to this test connector.
 

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Hi, tnx for PLAN B... the FI light is gone and the bike runs fine. But after this fix the rear turnsignals lights up when I brake (no blinks)... and my brake light blinks when i use the turn signals :-O I ofc taped all up and screwed everything on before I saw this problem... any suggestions? 99' bird


The turn signals actually work when I turn off the headlight... :hmm:
 

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Hi all. Here's some pictures of my fix, if it helps someone doing the job.
Mine is an Australian 1999 injected bird with analogue clocks.
There were no symptoms, I did it as a precaution only.
Cheers :)

View attachment 48290 View attachment 48291 View attachment 48292 View attachment 48293 View attachment 48294 View attachment 48295
I'm going to check this out on my bike this week, although ( touch wood ) my bike is running just fine ,I will do this fix as a precaution too as along with the R/R this seems to be a real issue on these machines.
 

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Quick question chaps; I've had cutting out on mine. Loom looks fine, but I've soldered it up anyway. The ONLY connector that's less than perfect is one of the stop/ tail light ones, which has melted a little.

Could this cause cutting out?
 

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Quick question chaps; I've had cutting out on mine. Loom looks fine, but I've soldered it up anyway. The ONLY connector that's less than perfect is one of the stop/ tail light ones, which has melted a little.

Could this cause cutting out?
Take a look at the wires on the bottom of the ignition switch - a few have reported broken wires causing cutting out recently.
 

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Has anyone done the fix on their 2001+ model and can explain where the offending part is on those models? I understand it's different to the 1999 model year and I'd rather know for sure before I start chopping at my bike! :)
 

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This thread brought me here... Tried the cleaner and brush, dielectric grease, sealed it back, and still the red FI light.

I've got 18 wires though, and it doesn't match what seems to have been posted.

Help... Thanks in advance.


1100xxWiring1.jpg 1100xxWiring2.jpg 1100xxWiring3.PNG
 

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This thread brought me here... Tried the cleaner and brush, dielectric grease, sealed it back, and still the red FI light.

I've got 18 wires though, and it doesn't match what seems to have been posted.

Help... Thanks in advance.


View attachment 87250 View attachment 87258 View attachment 87266
You have the earlier analogue dash loom with the brown plug.

They need to be joined in 4 groups. Take the lid off the cap and you will see the 4 bridge bars inside it.

2bwebIMG_0338_zps344956d3.jpg 4webIMG_0343_zps20e4f2d1.jpg 1557466_1150800631626634_6364076781229925985_n.jpg
 

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You have the earlier analogue dash loom with the brown plug.

They need to be joined in 4 groups. Take the lid off the cap and you will see the 4 bridge bars inside it.

View attachment 87274 View attachment 87282 View attachment 87290

Thank you!


I will go back into the garage tonight and take a look. Or perhaps sneak a look earlier...

I can see, based on the blades/bars from your cap which you pulled, the corrosion ran much deeper than perhaps the brushes could get.

I do have the brown cap, as you correctly pointed out. Thanks again. I'll post any change in results, etc., to hopefully benefit others.
 

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I went out at lunchtime and checked the harness pattern - here's what I found - my connector wiring pattern is unique, it seems...

Looks like in the earlier pics, an extra yellow wire - I only have two (2)

Also, I believe my pins are grouped like this:

I_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _I

I_ _ _II_ _ _ _II_ _ _I

So I can confirm, but in the brown "cap", it bridges ALL the Green Wires on one side together (10 wires, total)

Then on the other side, W/W/W - then Y/Y - then two empty blocks - then G/G/G

To my naked eye, it appears the W/W/W are all grouped, or bridged together, then the Y/Y are bridged on the section w/ 4 pin openings (2 are vacant), then then the G/G/G are all bridged.

Because EACH SIDE has a HEAVY Green wire, I presume this is a common ground - one for each side.


There's probably a total of 13 Ground wires here, but spread between 2 sides. Might not matter then to bond them with the other 10?

So I'm thinking about a BIG bundle of 10 Green bonded together on one side,
...then the other three Green wires together,
...then the two Yellow w/ red stripes together,
...then the 3 white wires together.

Sound correct? Anyone else have the same pattern as mine? Thanks again for any insight.

1100xxWiring4.JPG 1100xxWiring5.JPG 1100xxWiring6.JPG
 

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Perhaps a better pic of the one side:

1100xxWiring7.JPG

UPDATE:

Pulled the group of three white, and bundled them, the two yellow, and then the three green - bundled those individually.

Fired right up, then 15 seconds later, FI light came on again. So must be a bad ground in the group of 10...

 

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Sweet VICTORY!!!

I was deep in and committed, once the first wires were cut... In my post above, the wires I cut out of the block were suspect, but not completely the cause. I needed to pull the other 10 green wires and get them out of the block.

So I did, and then put a wire nut on them to test the theory. Success!! Fired right up, no red FI light.

Now I'll solder and shrink wrap, but this is the fix.

You can see the pins were corroded in the base, on both sides, causing the issues. I pulled the cap completely apart, as I didn't need it anymore. It was nasty in the part beneath, which could not be seen...

Thank you to all who helped - And I hope this helps another fellow 1100xx'er


1100xxWiring8.jpg 1100xxWiring9.JPG 1100xxWiring10.jpg 1100xxWiring11.JPG 1100xxWiring12.JPG 1100xxWiring13.JPG
 
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