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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Apologies if this has been discussed many times before. I am a newbie to the forum, I have owned a 97 bird for 5 years and it has never had a single problem until now.
My bike has not been charging for quite a while, I got round to looking at it and all the wires in the rectifier connector block had fried, burnt out.
I re-wired the block and now the bike won’t start, just a lot of backfiring.
is that most likely the rectifier or something else ?
 

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BirdDog
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Reg’s and CCT’s are just about the only gremlins on the carby’s.
 

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If it ran before you rewired the block, it could be causing a voltage problem through the rectifier. Disconnect it, check voltage, if the battery is flat, recharge. Try again without reconnecting the RR. If it runs, you then need to check the charging circuit and sort any problems.
 

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Mine's an 05 FI and was ultra reliable until the stator went at around 66K miles. Went through a few stators, R/Rs and batteries until I fitted RMSTATOR stator and R/R which connects directly to the battery. 1700 miles done since then and fingers crossed she's OK now. It would appear to be a problem with the loom. I'm starting to get confidence back in her for distance riding. (Before the new parts I wouldn't go further than it took for the battery to run down.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wiring looks good but that was my concern, if I replace the r/r and the stator is the problem could it blow the new r/r ?
I assume if I totally disconnect the r/r and try and start it, and it runs ok, it could still be the stator.
But I guess I could then get some readings of the stator output once the bike is running. Is that the right way to go ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fantastic explanation thanks, learning a lot here. Still not sure how it is effecting the ignition though, must be shorting somewhere.
I'll run some by-passes as you explained this evening.
 

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Fantastic explanation thanks, learning a lot here. Still not sure how it is effecting the ignition though, must be shorting somewhere.
I'll run some by-passes as you explained this evening.
Fault find using the chart before you bypass anything otherwise you may cause more damage
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I’m not sure what’s happened, the bike won’t start with or without the r/r on the bike. Checked continuity with all the wires to and from the r/r. Battery fully charged, half a tank of fuel. It starts for a few seconds at first then just backfires and that’s it, stops firing, won’t start again. I can’t work it out.
 

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Also check the main fuse block next to the battery, when I was having issues a while ago the main fuse block was melted letting voltage from the stator into the R/R but not back to the battery :( The mechanic who sorted it just removed the plug assembly and used crimped connectors so not the neatest job but it works ;)



 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks, checked main fuse, continuity from r/r back to the battery. Strange cos it starts for few seconds then cuts.
 

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Could be non electrical prob stopping it starting, or could be something blown due to the charging fault. Maybe sort which out of fuel/spark etc as being a prob. Check vaccum diaphragm opens on fuel cock, if plugs are good etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thats what I'm worried about, when I re-wired the block connector to the r/r and tried it, did I blow something in the ignition system, or even the CDI ?
Before I started looking at the r/r the bike was running fine.
 

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Your stator output could be going straight through the RR if you didn't check it before reconnecting. AFAIK This would mean possible 50v ac into the bike if the RR is internally shorted so it is possible I'm afraid. I would recommend any further testing you do with the bike powered off the battery only until you get it running, then test charging circuit as already suggested before re connecting. Also check the battery hasn't been fried - the RR going down can do this, it may have power to start bike but not keep it running, may be worth having it tested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think you might be right, using my cheap tester it says the battery is fully charged but trying to start and the engine is not turning over very fast, The starter motor sounds laboured so it may also be struggling for a good spark. I’ll get the battery tested.
 

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Also
A battery can show 12 to 13 volts static but only be a surface charge. When you put a real load on it it will fail. Give it a good overnight charge then have it load tested at a auto parts store if possible.
If you can't find one to do it then you can put your meter across the leads and roll the starter over. You want no less than 9.5 volts at that point if it drops below the battery won't have enough power to crank and run the systems needed to fire the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok so now I'm in a world of pain, battery is fully charged and healthy, the bike turns over quickly but does not fire, only occasionally backfires. So I am sure something got fried. Not sure where to start though, could it be coils? Fuel pump is mechanical I assume. Or should I try a new CDI ? I guess there are some less expensive tests I could do first. There is obviously a problem with the r/r or the stator but according to the fault finding chart I need to get the engine running to test them.
 

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Try spraying electrical contact cleaner into intakes and then spin motor, if it fires for a few seconds it's fuel related, if it doesn't., it's spark related. On the contact cleaner, don't use bunny friendly type, use the one that will cause total global warming if you look at it.

If fuel.Check the vaccum diaphragm on fuel tap is working.
Also check plugs are not fouled up, if she doesn't fire with the cleaner if in doubt, put in new
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So, turned out the plugs were completely fouled up, so at 5 years old I replaced them, then after some confusion with which pipes go where into the fuel tap the bike is running great. So I am now back to the charging problem. Following the fault finding chart from Stromma, surprisingly the R/R is good. So moved onto testing the stator I am getting some strange readings, of the 3 ohms readings that can be taken from the yellow wires I got 0.4 on two of them and 0.2 on the other. Does that sound terminal ? Not really sure what that is saying.
 
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