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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Disclaimers.
This is a VERY fiddly procedure. It requires experience in soldering circuit boards. It is not for the faint of hearted and it’s not for those that have shaky hands.
If you doubt your ability to do this project then DONT. Give it to someone that is confident enough in their abilities. It will cost you a significant amount of money to get the dash repaired/replaced if you screw this up... You have been warned...
Now after saying that the process isn’t really that hard, some care and some soldering skills will keep you on the right track..

Lets begin..
So you have the dash out of the bike and have removed all the screws on the back of the assembly. Separate the case halves and remove the circuit board assembly from the from the rear dash half.
I at this point unscrewed the 2 silver screws on the back of the board and removed the tacho. I did this because I was going to be handling the dash alot and A) didn’t want to damage the tacho and B) i didn’t want marks on my tacho face.. Your call...
I also removed the white plastic faceplate but again it's your call..
You now have the circuit board ready to start work.
Knowing what you are doing..
A LED is a (L)ight (E)mitting (D)iode and as such work in the same way as a normal diode. A normal diode will only allow power through it in the one direction, so like a normal diode a LED must have the power running through it in the correct direction. So what you need to do now is have a very close look at the LEDS on the cuircuit board and also the leds that you purchased for this project and work out which way around they need to be mounted....
LED removal.
From this point on you need to work carefully as I am in no way going to be responsible if you stuff this up..

In the next 2 photos you can see all of the LEDS that need to be removed. I removed all but 1 LED from each end of the board. (I left one so I always had a reference as to the correct orientation of the diode..) but you can do them one at a time or all at once..

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View attachment 16494


I am going to use my spare circuit board as this will make what I am doing more visible. Note that it will also make this project look easier than it actually is because it will not convey how fiddly it is.

In this pic you can see that I have removed the LEDS and left the one on the right in place. Also if you look closely you can see that the LED that I left on the board has little bits in the middle if it.. These are how you work out the orientation..
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have also included a second pic here to show what it would be like if I had left the gauges in place and what it will be like for you because i really don’t recommend removing the gauges.

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The LEDS can be carefully removed by applying heat to one side for about 1 second and then the other, and you keep going from one side to the other until you the LED come loose. (remember 1 second is the same as saying “one, one thousand” as you don’t want to apply too much heat to the board.) Remove the LED quickly so the doesn’t cool enough to re-adhere to the board.. Once the LED has been removed then clean your soldering iron and apply a small amount of solder back onto the pads where the LED will sit.
Here is where it starts to get fiddly as its difficult to try and hold the LED in place and solder it because of the overhang on the gauge carrier. (don’t damage that overhang by the way because that’s what funnels the lights up and around the gauges)
What I did to overcome this little problem was. After working out the orientation of the LED to be placed on the board I gently heated the end of the led and then touched solder to it. What this did for me was to basically provide me with a LED on a stick. See pic.

View attachment 16486

Use the solder to hold the led in place on the board. This should allow you to guide the LED into the correct location and keeping the correct orientation to the board and hold it rigidly enough to solder the free end of the LED onto the board..

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Let the end you have soldered cool and then again clean your soldering iron of excess solder. Then touch the end of the led with the solder attached.. this should A) removed the “stick” and B) provide you with enough solder on the iron and LED to have a good solid solder joint on the back side of the LED..

I waited until I had done the last solder joint before going out to the bike to test my handy work.. wether I got lucky or just careful work payed off but they all worked.


Repeat till all LEDS are done.

In the kit that I purchased there was ten LEDS there are 3 LEDS on the outside of the Speedo and there are five LEDS on the outside of the Multi gauge... Now you would think that would mean two spares.
BUT
There are three LEDS on the inside of the speedo (originally I thought you didnt need to do these but using any spare LEDs you have in this area is a good idea)
I dropped one LED on the carpet and I will eventually work out where that one went when I hear it go up the vacuum cleaner.. (it will never be seen again..)
With the other spare I did do the centre led of the inside of the speedo. If I hadn’t dropped one I would have done two..
The tests..
Its perfectly okay to reconnect the circuit board to the bike without reconnecting the tacho. Just be carefull not to ground the circuit board while you are doing this..

View attachment 16489 View attachment 16490 View attachment 16491

When putting the dash back together with your bright shiny new LEDS don’t forget to put the screws back into the back of the tacho. These screws don’t just hold the tacho in place they supply the signals to the tacho so it won’t work if you don’t..

View attachment 16492 View attachment 16496

The Actually final color is a deeper blue than seen in the pics.. Not sure why.. Maybe cause they were taken in daylight..

Yes the write up on the Gear indicator is comming soon.....
 

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No wonder you keep your bike in the lounge room Steve,
I wont be trying that one. Hahahaha
Cheers,
Brian,
 

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Wow !

No way I'd attempt this. Good work. I like the gear indicator and makes the one I installed yesterday perched on the top of the dash look more than a little amateurish.

Love the dash in blue.

p.s. How do you live with a virtually invisible tach needle!?!?!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
p.s. How do you live with a virtually invisible tach needle!?!?!
It isnt as invisible as it looks...

I dont have a problem seeing it on the dash at all..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Excellet write up Steve.

Do you have any spare LED's, an extra gear indicator and the time and inclination to help out an old cobber........
Thanks Paul

and No, No and Yes, In that order..
 

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Excellent job. I've ordered the leds a week ago. I already have an Indiglo tac face. My tech will have a go next month or so. If successful, I'll post a pic. It should look decent with the CF dash. The GI will stay as it is; not inserted into the tac.
Nicely done lad, very nicely done!
 

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Wow, and all without a board clamp. Very nicely done, Steve. The GI install turned out nicely, too - it looks great in the tach face.
 

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Uglystick, I glad you did this how-to... I was going to post mine today but your photos are much better.

However, I disagree that the three internal leds in the speedo are not necessary.
I followed the instructions that the ebay guy sent and when I assembled the cluster I got a somewhat black zone on the speedo... since I didn't liked it, I disassembled the bike again and saw those three extra leds. Unfortunately I had I faulty one so I only could replace one of the three leds (the bottom one) but now the black spot is only visible by me because I know it's there.

Also, I didn't liked the white needle on white tacho, so on my first approach I painted the needle blue (with permanent marker) but on the dark I could not see the needle very well, so on my second disassembly to solder the extra led I changed the needle color to red and I think it comes out great..

Here go my piccies...

View attachment 16500
What it looked like.. (just for comparison)

View attachment 16501
After first try.. with blue tacho needle

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the same, here you can see the darker area on the left side of the speedo

View attachment 16503
global view

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Global view after adding the other led and changing the needle to red

View attachment 16505
speedo now had a much less pronunciated black zone


Enjoy..

Jaws, you can use these photos if you like(since you didn't had photos of this mod)
 

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Wow !

No way I'd attempt this. Good work. I like the gear indicator and makes the one I installed yesterday perched on the top of the dash look more than a little amateurish.

Love the dash in blue.

p.s. How do you live with a virtually invisible tach needle!?!?!
Some people just "paint" it with a red marker,i didn't, it's not as "invisible" in real than on the pic


I love the gear indicator in the dash Steve, looking forward for the "how to do" thread.It's too complicated for me but love to see how you do it.If you ever come to Sydney:whistle:
 

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Awesome How-to, just wondering if the in dash GI indicator write up will also be applicable to analog dashes.
I have an analog dash with an Illumaglo Kit. i plan on installing my gear indicator on my speedo face since it is centralized on an analog dash. I will post up pics when i do. I LOVE my Illumiglo Kit. It has a dimmer and a blue or green light option. I leave it on blue. Very very nice and much more visible at night. i highly recommend this mod.

Hint; If you install an illumiglo kit DO NOT peel the backs off the gauges until AFTER you have them in place. It will be impossible to slip them over the needles if you peel the backs off like the directions tell you. Sorry, this has not much to do wit this thread, but i thought i would mention it since i see Illumiglo Gauges here.
 

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Great write up.

:plus1:Will be looking forward the write up on the Gear Indicator installation.

Did you use the Healtech GiPro GI.? have one on my CBR1000RR and was wondering where I was going to put it on the BB.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep its the GiPro X-series
 

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Today was my first ride with the upgraded dash and I was a bit scared... the tacho was running wild...
at tick over everything seemed fine, but when I actually moved the tacho was all nuts going up and down and sputtering..

I was thought that there could be issues with those two bolts that Ulglystick told about and the electricity was not being passed as it should.
I also thought of being an HID issue because while the cone was disassembled I changed the HID igniter to a better (cleaner) place under the cluster (directly under the tacho).

But after a few kilometers the symptoms have (so far) disappeared... does the tacho needs some self learning?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would say that you had a poor contact on the 2 screws..

The tacho does not need to learn..
 

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Yes, my first though was that... I hope it's gets solved by itself..
I wasn't planing of taking of the cone again for some time... lol

Thanks for the reply.. it confirms what I though.. the tacho is simply an inductor that gets feed through those two screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The GiPRO X-series that I am using is made by Healtech. There are 2 connections that need to be made.
The 3 pin connector for the speedo sensor need to be separated. The GiPro has a preinstalled male and female connector and these are fitted to the 2 seperated pieces from the speedo sensor in exactly the same was as the speedo healer.

On the 99 model the second wire is sliced onto the wire from the Ignition pulse generator.

On the 2001 and above you need to locate a wire from the ECU and splice the second wire into that..

Thats it...
 

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i looked in the book and i think it will be easier to install 2 reed contacts then to find a signal of the bike when i´m shifting. i don´t see a signal line in the wiring diagram for the carburetor bikes when shifting is done - but i´m no electrician.

my set has a dimmer for night rides included but it´s no product per se. just a kit for soldering and fumbling. all resistors and bits and parts are floating around in the box.
not bad for €12,- but all i have for the signal is the info where to put the 3 wires that deliver the signal. ^^

it´s in german but if you want to see the diagram - > http://www.elv-downloads.de/service/manuals/47587_MGA1_km_web_um.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If im reading that correctly..
Your display unit does not require input from the bike. Its a simple counter. It has a switch for stepping the counter up, a switch for stepping the counter down. and one to indicate when its in neutral..
 
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