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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last week my RR burned, so I decided to get the HS775 Mosfet regulator. It is supposed to reduce the load on the stator when less energy is needed and heats up less, so I thought I'd give it a try.

I ordered a HS775 from MTP racing in Germany, with a water-proof connector kit and got it in 2 days. Installation was straight forward. I re-drilled the holes about 2 cm below the original holes to avoid interference with the seat cowl and avoiding to grind off the heat dissipation fins of the HS775 (the unit is significantly bigger than the OEM unit). This allowed me to re-use the existing wiring (which was also badly burned), because the connectors are now closer to the original wire bundle.

After installing it I almost got a heart attack when I measured only 1,3 Volts (going up to 3 Volts) when running it disconnected from the battery. However, when you connect it to the battery, it goes up to 14.4 Volt (even with the engine at idle) and it stays there even at 10.000 rpm (didn't go much higher to avoid having trouble with the neighbours ;-) ). My battery was at 13 Volt (unloaded, engine shut down). I connected an amps meter and even at idle there was a current flowing to the battery.

I took her for a ride and it struck me that the lights didn't flicker when she runs at idle. The voltage is much more stable, even in idle at 1000 rpm, which can only be beneficial for the electronics.

I assume that, because the battery is now also charging when the engine is in idle, it will improve battery life. Anyway I learned that I have to recharge my battery regularly because the short trips (10 km or less) are insufficient to keep the battery in good shape.

If you are interested to get some pics of the installation, just let me know.

You see, it doesn't take much to make a BB rider happy :smilebig:
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
WP_20150716_013[1].jpg WP_20150716_010[1].jpg WP_20150716_014[1].jpg WP_20150716_012[1].jpg

Here they are. Yes, I know the screws are too long, but I haven't got shorter ones and there's no f****ng way I'm going by car tomorrow. She's fixed, she'll ride :)
Pic1 : final assembly
Pic2: unit removed, so you see the relative position of the new holes. If you stick to the original holes the top part of the SH775 will interfere with the cowling.
Pic 3 : view from the back. Obviously, stay away from the frame of the rear seat support.
Pic 4 : original wiring in the new waterproof connectors. The first connector has the yellow stator wires. The second one the battery wires - red = positive first, then green = negative=mass. I kept the original wires, but I heard others are going straight to the battery with thicker gauge wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do they do a wiring harness to suit the 5 pin plug that we have on our bikes?
Might be, check out their website. I tend to reduce the number of connectors (especially in our climate), even if it takes me an hour more to install the stuff. Every connector = potential source of misery. It took me about 2 hours yesterday to find the correct position, drill the holes, remove the melted old connector, connect the stator wires and test the unit at idle (at 1 am I don't run her up to 10.000 rpm - sleeping neighbours). Today it took me another hour to run her up in rpm's and connect the battery wires. I went cautiously but if you know what to do on a "clean" config (no burned connectors) it should take you between 1h and 2h max. Enjoy !
 

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That looks the way to go, might sort out the gremlins I am having at the moment. Thanks for posting the pictures, explains the wiring as well.

Wonder if there is a UK supplier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wonder if there is a UK supplier.
Polaris is using them for their vehicles (see Polaris R/R prices (SH775, Polaris part number 4012941)) )

They have their central warehouse somewhere in the UK, you could order from them. But you won't get the connectors. I have send Polaris a mail to ask for the price of the unit + connector, but haven't received any answer yet. The connector is a standard one, you should be able to find it. The older I get the lazier I get, so I ordered the unit with connector from MTP :)
 

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For those of you on this side of the pond roadstercycle.com has the same units. Jack's a great gent and who I bought my Sh12 from, he is now up into the 20's as well and carried the 775 too
 

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For those of you on this side of the pond roadstercycle.com has the same units. Jack's a great gent and who I bought my Sh12 from, he is now up into the 20's as well and carried the 775 too
Yeah, he's great to work with. That's how I got my SH775.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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From what I understand - the SH775 is a series regulator rather than the shunt type FH020

Shunt regulators dump excess to ground but keep the generator loaded all the time ( The MOSFET ones are better than the older versions )

Series regulators switch off the charging system when not needed and unload the generator.

Both systems will charge the battery at idle speed ( it is the MOSFET's that allow this because they activate at much lower voltages )

Providing it works long term - the Series regulator can only be good for the electrical system.
 

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Yes had a very long discussion with jack and rick about the charging systems and trying to help their longevity. I ride in sustained 100 plus temps daily for 22 miles one way It used to be 45 miles one way. The consensus was that the series would be the best. But at the time the 775 wasn't available. And the mosfets were only at version 12. I bought that from jack and it has been in there for 5 years with no issues. The next upgrade will be to switch to the 775 a it will be a plug in for me. By far either of these go a long way in stator longevity in my experience.
 

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Hey Bees, did you talk to Jack to confirm that the 775 will just be a direct swap for the 020/012 R/R? I have the 020 R/R on my 98 but like you ride in triple digit heat and like the help the 775 will give.
 

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Hey Bees, did you talk to Jack to confirm that the 775 will just be a direct swap for the 020/012 R/R? I have the 020 R/R on my 98 but like you ride in triple digit heat and like the help the 775 will give.
Not yet but good question give me a few minutes and I'll let you know. But assumptions can bight you lol
 

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OK confirmed as a plug and play replacement. Also shed some more light on the subject of LED lights. The more electrical load you remove from the system the more the regulator has to dump. Resulting it working harder so if your LED'ING everything on a stock R/R your killing it.
 

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Also shed some more light on the subject of LED lights. The more electrical load you remove from the system the more the regulator has to dump. Resulting it working harder so if your LED'ING everything on a stock R/R your killing it.
I have the FH020 fitted to my 97 BB ( along with a pair of custom looms from Eastern Beaver to bypass the bikes loom )
Every bulb on the bike is LED except the headlight - the headlight is dual HID projectors.
FH020 and the current YTX14-BS battery have been on the bike for 6 years now without a squeak of trouble.
Based on that - I would say that the mosfet R/R and the bigger battery are working very well together.
 

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I have the FH020 fitted to my 97 BB ( along with a pair of custom looms from Eastern Beaver to bypass the bikes loom )
Every bulb on the bike is LED except the headlight - the headlight is dual HID projectors.
FH020 and the current YTX14-BS battery have been on the bike for 6 years now without a squeak of trouble.
Based on that - I would say that the mosfet R/R and the bigger battery are working very well together.

Have to agree 5 yes on my setup and LED'S in everything. The newer MOSFET I am thinking is the key. It's a lot more robust. I am also running a Storia iron lithium with 315 CCA. When I first et him he wasn't even doing the connectors yet just the wires and the R/R. Still a great guy to talk to and very helpful.
 

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Does sound like either of the two RR mentioned in this thread are wise purchases when the need to replace arises, like now in my case.
 

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Does sound like either of the two RR mentioned in this thread are wise purchases when the need to replace arises, like now in my case.
Part of the reason the mosfet r/r are working better is that they have a higher rating than the OEM r/r.

The FH020AA r/r is rated for 50 amp - the BB charging system is only capable of about 25 amp.

When fitted and working - the FH020AA hardly gets warm in operation compared the the OEM r/r that gets pretty hot.
 

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Polaris is using them for their vehicles (see Polaris R/R prices (SH775, Polaris part number 4012941)) )

They have their central warehouse somewhere in the UK, you could order from them. But you won't get the connectors. I have send Polaris a mail to ask for the price of the unit + connector, but haven't received any answer yet. The connector is a standard one, you should be able to find it. The older I get the lazier I get, so I ordered the unit with connector from MTP :)
The best I can find out is it costs $85 just for the regulator in the US, so by the time it's UK priced it's normally the same in pounds, so £85-ouch.
 
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