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www.blackbirdownersclub.e u
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I made my own warning-lights. I choose for removing the little side-panels and the screen. The screen for more working-space



HOW-TO


Remove the side panels (left and right)


View attachment 15215
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Remove the other 4 bolts. (The top-bolts you already removed with the side panels)

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Watch out for bolts 3 & 4 in the middle. It is mounted in a rubber with thread. They can easily drop out. Thats why I removed the side panels. For a better view.

View attachment 15218

Now slide out carefully the screen. At the bottom of the screen are also 2 rubber threads. Best thing you can do is to glue them on your screen. Then they will never pop out and leave you searching for a day.. :mad:

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Umnount the mirrors.

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Now you see two cables. Blue on the right and orange on the left. Green is earth.

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Cut the two plugs (blue and orange) y mount a new plug WITH a new cable. (in this case a black cable)

So two cables in ONE plug. Same for the other side.


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Find a suitable place to mount the switch. I mounted it at the tank-side panel, but thats for you to decide where, and connect the two new cables to the switch. (in this case black cables)


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Now to activate the warning lights just push your indicatorswitch on the handle to the left or right and press the button.

Like so...

MOV00326.flv video by Yoan57 - Photobucket




thanx to Evelakes for his idea and heisti for explaining how to place the pixies.
 

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Re: [How-To] Make your own warning-lights

You mean "Hazard lights"? I suppose that's a minor flaw in the Bird. My Harley had hazard lights. I guess this opens up the flood gates for Harley jokes. lol
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Re: [How-To] Make your own warning-lights

Elegant and simple. Thanks Yo. I'll move this to the resource centre.
 

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:thumb: Good idea, condones ka not done :thumb: :clap: :clap: :clap:
 

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Nice job, as soon as I get my forks rebuilt I'll start modin' this will be one of those mod's. I'm working on one also I'll keep you all posted and start a new thread when the time comes. :patriot: :thumb:
 

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:dance::dance:On my 2003 bird in South Africa the hazard lights was standard - the headlight switch below the Kill switch operated the system. but on my USA/Canada bird it is without the switch - so i think a bit of modification is called for !!
 

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Mongrel
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This sounds too good to be true :) I'm going to try it tomorrow. Just a couple of things:

1. it may be easier to splice a new wire onto the orange and green ones rather than cut the plug off. ie shave some of the insulating jacket off the relevant wire and solder and then tape?

2. Does the relay take the load? By doing this you are doubling the amperage to the flasher relay from about 4 to 7+ amps? It must be Ok because your setup seems to work fine. i am guessing thta the relay is probably rated for about 10 amps, but i am not sure.

On third hand ... :) it could all be a figment of my very fuzzy imagination :)

Well done and will report back when i have had a go.

Cheers
g.
 

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Mongrel
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:clap:

The instructions above worked like a treat :) I now have working hazard lights on my 'Bird.

The only thing I did different was shave the insulation off he blue/orange indicator wires and solder on the extra wires there. Made sure i used a slightly thicker wire and then cable tied the thinner blue/orange wires to the new wire to lessen any strain.

The only oddity is that I bought a rocker switch with a light in it but I couldn't get the light to work. In fact when I put the extra wires into a circuit with the switch setting that had the light on it, I got a flashing light on the switch but only normal indicators. I am sure and electrical type can tell me why! :)

So for now, no light on the rocker switch but the hazards work fine.

I haven't had time to explore more, but I'm thinking:

1 . There must be a way of putting both sides of the indicators on by just hitting the rocker switch - I think the way to do this is to trace 2 wires that go into the switch.

2. I suspect if I put another lead to the switch from the battery *or* from some point that either loops around or bypasses the ignition, I will be able to use the hazards without having the ignition key on. The upside is that you could use the hazards without having all the lights on (Australian 'Birds were hard wired with the lights always on).

The downside of this will be that some gimp could come a long and switch them on in the street and flatten your battery.

A better way would be to see if it was possible to wire it to the HISS system, so that even if someone did hit the button. with HISS mode on its disabled. then all you'd have to do is put the key in the ignition. clear the HISS and turn it off again. I *don't* know if this is possible.

If I get tme to explore some of the above I'll report it back.


Regardless of all of the above, I am so glad that I now have hazard lights :) I do a fair bit of marshalling for ride groups around the State and this is absolutely a Godsend :)

Thanks Thanks Thanks!

Cheers
g.
 

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This looks good :)

I'm off to get a switch and some wire and have a go at the weekend..

Progress report to follow :thumb:

DC
 

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2. Does the relay take the load? By doing this you are doubling the amperage to the flasher relay from about 4 to 7+ amps? It must be Ok because your setup seems to work fine. i am guessing thta the relay is probably rated for about 10 amps, but i am not sure.
I'm considering doing this mod so I thought I'd work out just how close this is to overloading things.
Disclaimer: I haven't actually tested this, it's all just theory so feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. :thumb:

Not entirely sure on the US spec birds, but the Euro (and Aus) spec birds are as follows:
The front and rear turn signals, brake lights (NOT including tail lights), horn, and 'passing' switch (where fitted) are all on the same fuse.
This is a 10 Amp fuse.

The 'passing' switch is just used to trigger a relay so current draw should be minimal.

Turn signal and brake light bulbs are 21 Watts each.
4 x turn signals + 2 x brake lights = 126 Watts.
So there is about 9 Amps (Assuming 13.5V present. Watts/Volts=Amps).

I'm not sure what the horn draws but if it is over 9 Watts (which I imagine it is) you could be in for some trouble under certain cirumstances.
E.G. If you have your 'hazard lights' on AND your brake lights AND you sound your horn, you'll possibly overload it and blow the fuse.

Remember, this is all assuming 13.5 volts.
If your engine is off and your battery is a little low (12.5 volts), just the Hazard lights and brake lights might be enough to blow the fuse.


It's still a useful mod, and I'll still be doing it on my bird, but this is just something to consider before doing the mod. ;)
 

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I made my own warning-lights. I choose for removing the little side-panels and the screen. The screen for more working-space


thanx to Evelakes for his idea and heisti for explaining how to place the pixies.
Hey YO. This is great.:thumb: Have you posted this on the SA site yet? [Have not checked yet?]:idunno:
 

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dos" quis
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Good Tip, Here's another tip for hazards. I used this one as i didn't see the one described before. They are both very good tips. i found this a couple years ago i think. works well and less to do for time savings.:cheers:


While at Hot Springs I had a few people ask me how I wired up my 4 way flashers. Rather than a long technical explanation I decided to draw the diagram and point out the hook up points.

This entire project took all of 1 hour to install including drilling the hole for the switch. I placed my switch on the top of the left side cover of my Road Star. Total cost for parts is about $13.00


Refer to the Diagram:


One side of the fuse holder goes to the POSITIVE side of the battery.

The other side goes to the Flasher can, the NON-load side of the flasher .

The other terminal on the flasher, the LOAD (L) side, goes to one set of switch leads which are jumped together upon the Double Pole Single Throw switch (DPST)

The other switch leads get tapped into the wiring that is going into the rear fender. (These wires can be seen with the seat removed and they are just behind the battery on the left-hand side.)


One wire is tapped into the Chocolate wire, (brown-Left), the other is tapped into the Dark Green wire, (Right).
The flashers should be operational now.

(Remember since they are wired into the Positive side of the battery, they are unaffected by the Ignition switch. They will remain on with key turned to off position. If left on for extended periods of time you will drain the battery.)



note: I just remove the fuse when i'm not riding.








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