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Discussion Starter #1
Sup dudes,

What is it that you guys do to keep your birds from getting and super hot at stop lights or bumper to bumper traffic??
Lemme know 馃.
 

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Mine will go up to 236掳F and then fan kicks on and cools it down when I am stopped in traffic in hot weather. Change coolant every 4 to 5 years.
Some wire a switch to the fan so they can manually turn it on. Some have modified the fans and pout two on it. Others get new aluminum radiators.

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Hello fellow fighter pilot! MMmmmm.... Yes our birds do tend to get a little hot in stop and go traffic. BUT should never cross the RED line. That being said, On my first makeover I had place an override switch on my side dash. To actively turn on the fan whenever I felt she was getting hot BEFORE she got TOO hot. Now on my second build I plan on adding a second smaller fan next to main fan(Will have to move main fan over by 2,3 inches) with override switch. IMHO, I think this setup will really keep things cooler. A handful of members have done this mod. Also plan on using Antigravity Lithium Bat. 480CA. Will have pics in my makeover...(SECOND 100% MAKEOVER...)

Lolol Like XXGUY mentioned above Also plan on getting new aluminum rad. with a bit more capacity. This would also help keep her cooler.
 

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Hello fellow fighter pilot! MMmmmm.... Yes our birds do tend to get a little hot in stop and go traffic. BUT should never cross the RED line. That being said, On my first makeover I had place an override switch on my side dash. To actively turn on the fan whenever I felt she was getting hot BEFORE she got TOO hot. Now on my second build I plan on adding a second smaller fan next to main fan(Will have to move main fan over by 2,3 inches) with override switch. IMHO, I think this setup will really keep things cooler. A handful of members have done this mod. Also plan on using Antigravity Lithium Bat. 480CA. Will have pics in my makeover...(SECOND 100% MAKEOVER...)

Lolol Like XXGUY mentioned above Also plan on getting new aluminum rad. with a bit more capacity. This would also help keep her cooler.
That's what I said!

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I put Evans "Power Sport" coolant in my rad. It's a synthetic coolant which has zero water in it so runs at a lower pressure easing some of the stresses in the components. One of the Honda race teams uses it apparently so can't be too bad.

Other than my fan coming on in town traffic the temp stays solidly steady at the halfway point on the gauge (or much lower if out on the motorway to the point I wondered if my gauge was actually working when I first installed the fluid).
 

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I have 2 Birds with 2 different 'solutions'
My more std Bird has the manual switch that I use mainly in hotter climes than the UK.
My supercharged Bird has twin high capacity fans, one operating off the thermostat and the other from a manual switch. You have to take care when fitting/running fans like these, they can take a lot of current, no point in having a cool bike with a flat battery!

What I have found on both bikes is that you need to use the manual switch before you see the temp climbing quickly. So if you know a town is coming up turn the fan on.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've come to the conclusion that,

I'm just going to run the Evan's Powersport Coolant. Do exactly what they say for installation and such. Flush it with their prep fluid and then run their main Coolant for best performance. If that doesn't work and the bird proceeds to get hot. I'll put a toggle switch on the bike for manual use of the Radiator fan.

Thanks again, boys.
 

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My bird seemed to get hot very quick anytime I stopped and would take forever th cool back down when the fan kicked on. The cooling system had been neglected when I bought her a few years ago(coolant was full of deposits when I flushed it out). I bought a used radiator and cleaned/power washed the fins before I put it on the bike. I also replaced the thermostat. Temp guage doesn't rise nearly as quick at a stop and when the fan finally kicks on it cools down immediately! Take a look at your radiator fins they can get pretty clogged up from 20+ years of use.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah,

Just took the time to check out the radiator fins. They're definitely pretty gross looking. Guy before me also, put on a mesh radiator guard. I wonder if that could put resistance towards air flow on the radiator fins? I'll get this bird running right so I can ride through my town. Unfortunately, my town is a heavy tourist zone. So I've got to get everything done, soon.
 

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TheDuck touched on the point of adequate battery voltage. The charging system produces electrical power in proportion to the RPM. At idle it is barely making enough to run the bike without discharging the battery and this is only when everything is working as new....and that is with 1 fan.
1. Set idle speed to 1500rpm see if that helps.
2. Mount a voltmeter to the dash, if the idle voltage drops too much, the fan will turn slower making the problem worse.
3. Upgrade your charging system (R/R) to mosfet and connect it directly to the battery for best stable and proper voltage.
 

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TheDuck touched on the point of adequate battery voltage...
3. Upgrade your charging system (R/R) to mosfet and connect it directly to the battery for best stable and proper voltage.
Bear, FYI a "mosfet" RR is much improved over the OEM old tech binary shunt RR (one of the few weaknesses in our birds) . The favoured "mosfet" one is the FH020. There's also a newer tech ("series" RRs), more expensive but runs everything cooler still (stator & RR) known as the SH847. Both manufactured by Shindengen very well respected supplier to the big manufacturers.

Plenty written in this fourum about both RRs inc installation and best place to buy if you wish to investigate them (though defo avoid eBay or Amazon knock offs) .

Your final angle on heat and RRs is the more you go LED orientated the hotter the OEM RR gets and the stator i.e. shorter life or closer to burn out.

Additional point is if you go LiFePo (lithium) battery you're best advised to aim for an RR with a set point of 14.1v (compared to the usual 14.5v). Rick's do a mosfet 14.1v lithium friendly RR. Jack does great kits for the FH020 and SH847 (both are 14.5v but I'm risking it with my lithium and awaiting delivery of a 847 as it's reputed to be a stator saver).
 

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Mine will go up to 236掳F and then fan kicks on and cools it down when I am stopped in traffic in hot weather. Change coolant every 4 to 5 years.
Some wire a switch to the fan so they can manually turn it on. Some have modified the fans and pout two on it. Others get new aluminum radiators.

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Mine gets to 103c on 38c day at lights ,stock 2006.
 

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Yeah,

Just took the time to check out the radiator fins. They're definitely pretty gross looking. Guy before me also, put on a mesh radiator guard. I wonder if that could put resistance towards air flow on the radiator fins? I'll get this bird running right so I can ride through my town. Unfortunately, my town is a heavy tourist zone. So I've got to get everything done, soon.
I have a home made mesh rad protector on my 05BB and it makes no difference to temp........ the BB will run hot at very slow speeds because it has very close fitting fairing cowls and the air flow isn't enough to cool it down, but, that said, a clean cooling system (inside and out) should never allow the engine to 'overheat' (eg 123C or red zone on the older BB's). Mine gets to 107C in 30+C summer heat and slow traffic (what that is in 'F' ?), but it always reduces back to 94C with the fan on.

Your issue is likely to be a thermostat not opening at the prescribed temps, or some scale in the radiator blocking some tubes, or the fans not activating at the proper temp etc. You could try cutting some sound deadening foam out of the side cowls and removing the black plastic heat shields from in front of your knees and shins..... helps let more air flow through, but will warm your legs in summer!

Anyway, 107C in traffic is normal, but it should drop to 94C when moving in 60-70kph traffic and go back down to 84C at 100kph if the system is working efficiently. When I run my BB up to operating temp in my garage I watch the gauge and see the thermostat kick open at about 84C...... the temp drops down rapidly to about 79C as cooler fluid from the rad floods past the fully open thermostat, then it climbs again to 101C where the fan cuts in and pulls it back down to 94C and then shuts off. This is how mine has worked from new 16 yrs ago, but I have always changed my coolant regularly and never let it go more than the coolant's time specs - there are long life coolants available so you can extend the change from 2yrs out to 4yrs depending on the brand of coolant being used. A 1:1 ratio of coolant to demin water is best.

PS Try a new radiator cap! That might be the issue...... if the existing cap isn't holding 1.1 bar the bike will overheat. I couldn't buy a pretty Honda cap last time and had to make do with a $20 MCS accessory cap, but it works just as well as the $54 Honda cap......... (y) Also check the pipe to the overflow tank is in good order, and clean the overflow tank so you can see the level - I run cold at max and see it rise above max when it expands with heat.

Good luck finding the issue.... (y)
 

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If you need a cap you can go to Napa or a parts store and get a 94 Honda Accord cap.
NAPA part #703-1712

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Sup dudes,

What is it that you guys do to keep your birds from getting and super hot at stop lights or bumper to bumper traffic??
Lemme know 馃.
Hi
Sup dudes,

What is it that you guys do to keep your birds from getting and super hot at stop lights or bumper to bumper traffic??
Lemme know 馃.
Hi Bear_xx97 I am just worried about fitting an extra fan, I have burnt out 2 Rectifiers over the last 23 years on my bird, The CBR rectifiers are very prone to burning out from over heating, a high amp fan will draw so much power that you might have an overheating engine and burnt out rectifier. The guys whom fitted extra fans did you fit aftermarket rectifiers ? The even say you must never run your bird on a flat battery / push start, that is how I burnt out my first rectifier. I have read that The Yamaha R1 rectifier is a much more robust rectifier to fit.
 

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Hi

Hi Bear_xx97 I am just worried about fitting an extra fan, I have burnt out 2 Rectifiers over the last 23 years on my bird, The CBR rectifiers are very prone to burning out from over heating, a high amp fan will draw so much power that you might have an overheating engine and burnt out rectifier. The guys whom fitted extra fans did you fit aftermarket rectifiers ? The even say you must never run your bird on a flat battery / push start, that is how I burnt out my first rectifier. I have read that The Yamaha R1 rectifier is a much more robust rectifier to fit.
Danlobo, you are right to be concerned with the performance of the OEM rectifier (R/R), and yes there are units available today that are far superior. By the way, analysing the charging system is counter intuitive. The less power draw from the bike = more power the R/R has to bleed off as heat, and visa versa.
Anyway, check out this site for excellent info and the good stuff for sale....worth it if you can stretch the budget. Home
FH020AA superkit is what I went with. Very happy. Yamaha R1 (and now many, many others) use this exact one or similar mosfet type. BEWARE OF FAKES
 

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Do the fuel injection birds have an oil cooler like the carb birds do, but just not fed air through the front air ducts? I'm sure that makes a difference in keeping the engine temp down. You could mount one anywhere in the open that gets air flow.
 

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Hi

Hi Bear_xx97 I am just worried about fitting an extra fan, I have burnt out 2 Rectifiers over the last 23 years on my bird, The CBR rectifiers are very prone to burning out from over heating, a high amp fan will draw so much power that you might have an overheating engine and burnt out rectifier. The guys whom fitted extra fans did you fit aftermarket rectifiers ? The even say you must never run your bird on a flat battery / push start, that is how I burnt out my first rectifier. I have read that The Yamaha R1 rectifier is a much more robust rectifier to fit.
I went for the SH847 for my R/R upgrade鈥 next step up from the FH020 (more expensive too sadly) as its "series" tech is more up to date than "mosfet" and runs cooler still. Plenty here written about both and both fitted, used and recommended by users. Also available to buy genuine part from the link Fizzy posted (lots of fakes out there on fleabay etc) .
 
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