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Discussion Starter #1
I have a CBR 1100 XX Super Blackbird 1999 is there any way to get to my valves and clean them without having to take the motor out of the bike or is that the only way to do it
 

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Cleaning valves?

What needs cleaning?

You can set the valve clearance without dropping the engine by removing the valve cover and cams. You can peek down the intakes after removing the throttle bodies and see the top of the valves. Anything else, you drop the engine. Takes about 1-2 hours.
 

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Cleaning valves.......I'll assume you've been looking down the throttle bodies and seen a furry build up on the valve stems......?........ this can easily be removed by adding some "Injector" cleaner to the next 3 tanks of fuel (and riding 1000kms) ....... I use Valvoline fuel injector cleaner and have done for 15years with no issue....... it's also pretty cheap, but you will have to work out how much to add to a small volume of fuel (it says on my bottle 350mls works for 60/80 ltrs of a car fuel tank..... so 35mls for 8ltrs means roughly 90-100mls for a BB's 23ltr tank - best poured in at fill up time to mix thoroughly (be careful as this is a carcinogenic chemical so wash hands if you spill any and don't breath the vapours) - I use an empty Inj cleaner bottle so I can pre-measure 100cc then pour it in just before filling up the tank.

These treatments are best done over the last three full tanks of fuel just before an oil change service, so as not to contaminate fresh clean engine oil.

Absolutely no need to remove an engine just to de-carbon some valves unless they are severely fouled from an oil burning engine (worn rings/valve seals) - mine only ever get a buildup from fuel deposits as my engine doesn't burn any oil - 130,000kms! true! (ie, it never needs topping up - mine stays at the max mark on the dip stick throughout the 6000km service period I use).

:thumb:

PS If you were asking about doing a top end overhaul, then I think it's time to remove the motor as I'm not sure there is enough room to work on the head only....... maybe some of the guys have done it.......

Valve clearances can be checked as a DIY...... but changing a shim is a camshaft out job and not for an inexperienced home mechanic...... probably doesn't require any adjustement anyway - mine hasn't needed any valve adjustment - even at 114,000kms when the cam chain and adjuster needed replacing.
 

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I have a CBR 1100 XX Super Blackbird 1999 is there any way to get to my valves and clean them without having to take the motor out of the bike or is that the only way to do it
Generally the need for decokes is a thing of the past. Have you got compression issues?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Valve's are clean on top looking down it's a really rough idle with out the RPMs being high the bike wants to die out but as long as I play with the clutch keep the RPM so I can take off and the problem seems non-existent with my RPMs high but when they're low the bike seems to like not be getting enough fuel or something cuz it tries to cut out and really rough idle and a knock
 

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I have turned the idle screw and it still didnt change the idle speed and yea it was at a real low idle when this happened I've checked my shims and they are all in spec not real sure what made it do this overnight night and thanks guys are really appreciate the input and help anything helps at this point owning a bike was my dream and it's come true now it's a nightmare LOL
 

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When's the last time you pulled the air cleaner and checked the plugs?
 

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Could also be a tank of old fuel...... we are getting varying fuel economy and handle bar vibes after a refill..... I think it's just a lottery - one tank all perfect, next fill, old fuel gone stale, and bike runs less well.

You may need a throttle body/carbie synchro or you could try a dose or three of injector cleaner and see if it comes good. A clogged airfilter won't help same as old plugs - they go out of resistance/gap specs in 12,000kms for standard NGK or 30-40k kms for NGK Iridium.

A quick thought..... hows your battery? Is it fresh or is it reading less than 9.5v on first start of the day (not on a battery charger for 12hrs)..... this is an easy load test and tells you if the battery is about to hurt your reg/rect or alternator coils. Are the plug caps/leads in good condition with equal/spec resistance?

Sorry gotta rush.....

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It runs better with a vaccum line off my idle screw actually works and I've had seafoam in almost every full tank of gas which was like 3 before this happened still bucks and hesitates in first gear but once the RPMs are up it runs fine but once it gets to 6000 RPMs it will not go over that so generally in 6th Gear I'm only hitting about a hundred miles an hour and it's really hard to get it to go any faster it's like it's not getting the fuel it needs
 

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Pull the vacuum line that is attached to the FPR and see if there's fuel in it or its wet inside. It's the smaller of the 2 lines. If there is fuel in it DO NOT RUN THE BIKE ANYMORE. Dump the oil change the filter and get a new FPR installed.
 

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I didnt see any gas nor wetness in the line but not my oil light started flashing and I think my oil pump started making noises clicking and almost a grinding sound but the sound only happened when I was on the gas any and i did have gas in my oil before but that's why I changed it twice in like a weeks time and I thought I only had oil in if from where it didnt run before i got it and for a year the guy said he had worked on it and put a new wire harness on it and had tryed to start it over and over then I done the same for a week or to so i figured that gas had to go some where if it wasnt starting and burning it off
 

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Then I would get a oil pressure gauge and the off at the oil pressure switch per the manual. Pull the plugs and crank the motor over and see if it registers any pressure. You'll want something there. If it does then put the plugs back in and fire it up and see what it says pressure wise you should see at least 10 pounds at idle. If neither of these show a pressure. The motors gonna have to come out and the cases split. It sounds like you may have taken out the crank and rod bearings .
 
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