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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
What do you mean, multimeter? I tested continuity with it, or is there some other device you were referring to?

Anyhow I went probing around, hopefully I didn't puncture a wire :D but, probing the back end of the under-tank connector, on both sides I get continuity on the Bu/Bl wire from the relay Bu/Bl connector.

Very weird but...I'll figure it out somehow :D
 

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Kombanwa.
It's Sunday midnight in Japan now, and I've been filling myself up with ethanol fuel for several hours from dinner :p

Sorry for cutting in from the side, but I guess DVM fizzy mentions is an ordinary electric tester such as you've already had. No need for getting new if yours works well for judging conductivity (continuity).


And, Tom, you must be busy for posting reports here with elaborate pix, apart from substantial troubleshooting work itself. Then, I recommend you filling in the diagram chart with OK stamp where you could surely confirm the normal continuity. That's what fizzy previously suggested to you ;) And here, I assigned some numbers on Bu/Bl line, and do the same work for some other dividable parts for Bu, and Or/Bl as well in case. Product Rectangle Schematic Font Slope
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Yep, I agree I need to go looking for continuity between branches on the loom. I think I'll have to remove the headlight cowl.

But I still have my suspicion about this, as it's very weird that only one wire breaks while the rest of connector works...
 

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Seems fine though worn out a bit. But once you opened the coupler, how about cleaning the metal receptacles with a tiny brush?
I would use a dental gum brush and ordinary machine lubricant.
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But it's nothing more than the basic maintenance, can't be the silver bullet for your problem...


Getting tidy up your loooong story in chronological order, it might be;
1. You once rode on your Bird without lighting problem
2. Left the Bird at the barn untouched in winter for 3 months
3. Noticed switches are dusty and sticky
4. Took the bike to the shop, and had it maintained; Rear cussion, Front folks, Valve matters, Upper cowl repair
5. The bike is back, and you're suffering from the entangled passing problem

Is that correct? If so, I'd vote @leighb 's guess. The shopman had done anything wrong without noticing it. I can't understand your Bird's behaviour either anyway:unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
That is correct, I believe the last time went out riding was around Christmas.
So between Christmas and middle of March, bike was parked in a big garage of a shopping mall, and when I was loading the bike in a van to transport it to the service garage, I noticed sticky buttons on both handlebar switches but I thought it was just something that has to do with 3 months not using the bike.

I don't feel like riding the bike like this to the service garage, but I don't have a garage for myself either. I might rent one for a month or two and sort it out by myself.

It annoys me that the bike was normal before the major service and now I have to hunt for this problem, plus I can't put the plates on the bike, I can't pass the MOT test without high beam switch working.
 

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Here appeared new info.
It was not private barn but public shopping mall garage :oops:

Okay, just do conductivity checks for some dividable parts just one by one.
(I just thought it easy-peasy switcheroo for bulb lines, but seems tricky...)
 

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Bugger :confused:, my indicators have gone out in sympathy with your high beam......

Did my monthly run up, pump forks, press brakes, check thermostat, run through gears etc etc and the traffic indicators wouldn't flash as they should.

Sprayed some elect contact cleaner in the switch block again, and onto the relay plugs but the switch action felt odd this time.......mechanism likely worn, or some old grease in the way.....will have to open the block and inspect.

Had a look for possible new replacement items just for interest and was left feeling suitably depressed, so hopefully a bit of a clean up will restore my birds trafficator's to normal.......

:cautious:

PS, this is just my BB telling me it wants a good ride out in the fresh air......
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Yeah these switches on my bike started acting funny once the bike was parked up for longer period of time...

Also, sidequestion, I figured to replace the throttle-side switch, so in order to remove it I guess the throttle grip needs to go off the bike, which means handlebar weight needs to go....but I can't do it on my bike, or am I doing something wrong?

When I start to unscrew the handlebar weight bar end, the entire thing spins, not just the screw but the bar end as well. How am I supposed to unscrew it?
 

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Cheers Tom,

I've had my bar end weights off many times, and it's no biggie. Just hold the bar end with one hand and use a cross tip longish shaft screw driver (more grunt than a short one) and wind away. It should come off easily.

(y)

PS the fun part for you will be the throttle cables. It's been a few years, so I'm running on memory, but just work steadily and I 'm sure you'll have no probs. I haven't looked at mine but there are two screws holding the switch block together, and they are accessed from underneath. Turn the bar to wherever it gives a straight shot by a screwdriver and they will come out easy. I forget if the switch block comes off without removing the throttle grip....the cable ends can be disconnected in situ by twisting the throttle to wherever you can coax the cable end to slip out.

See how you go....it's not too difficult, but I apologise if I've given any bad info ......it really has been a few years since I last played with the throttle assy.
 

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Tom

Kombanwa. Still stacked there (or went well now)?

Taking the bar-end off is one nice workaround just as Dave says :)
And here's 2nd option; taking the reservoir brace off (blue arrow in the 1st pic).
(I took the pic right after retrieving this '04 blue Bird from the previous owner, so there's a universal stay attatched, and the screw behind is so rusty :rolleyes: )
By doing this, you can earn working space. And if you have a stabby(=very short) driver, you don't have to take the handle bar off from the top bridge for unscrewing.
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Just taking RHS off from the handle bar... You can make it out within hadle switch side works basically, but if you feel it tough, maybe better taking the air-cleaner off, and loosen the throttle wires.

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I always lift up the front side of the tank to do such kind of business, but avoid windy day, and put plenty of soft rags under the tank tail :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Thank you very much for the detailed reply, very systematic and precise, I guess that's the 大和魂 ? :D

I went testing the one option I haven't tested so far - because all things considered so far meant that there could be an issue with the connector, and looking at the pics I posted of it earlier, it does look bit corroded.

So...



Hack approach, and maybe I ruined the terminals or whatever - doesn't matter. I'll replace this connector anyway. But after jumping the Bu/Bl wire, the handlebar switch worked as intended.

Rocker switch worked normally going from low to high bulb, and the passing switch worked normally. So this means - time for a new connector under the tank, I'll try to do it as clean and OEM as possible.

がんばりましょう!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Could be - but I'm not gonna even bother trying to save this old connector, it's done its duty well enough, I'll replace the entire thing.
 

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You can get the housings and pins from a few places.
 
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