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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok testing for another try at rebuilding this.


Fully Electronic Cruise control
I am sorry for the loss of the narrative for this thread I will have to rebuild it and it will take some time so please bear with me and I will try and get it fixed soon. The kits are still available for anyone interested.

I am sorry for the loss of the narrative for this thread I will have to rebuild it and it will take some time so please bear with me and i will try and get it fixed soon. The kits are still available for anyone interested.

Ok here goes the first attempt


For the legal jargon first.

I AM NOT a certified motorcycle mechanic and present this how to with an understanding that I have no liability myself to the end user if they so choose to follow my example. I present this as a helping how to for anyone but they must understand that they take sole responsibility for any damages to their equipment or themselves or any passengers riding with them while operating this accessory.

Ok now that we have stated that and understand it here is the write up on the install of a Global enterprises Fully Electronic Cruise control. This version is a remake of an earlier how to that got lost by me (sorry). I will use the original pictures from the first as they were not lost. I will also try to incorporate the things I have learned and the upgrades I have made since the original post and kit install 5 years ago.
I also have the kit in a prefabbed version now as well. I have been able to remove one of the solder splices in the original write up. The new switch assembly from Honda that is now used is a direct plug and play at the red main wire connection. This allows you to only have to pull the connectors from the brown plug now. With that all said now let’s get going and see how much I can remember (ohh boy)

The complete kit from me is 460.00 plus shipping to your address. This includes the harness built and terminated for you at all but the solder splice points. This is as close to a plug and play as I can get at this point. It includes the mounting bracket in the new configuration that allows a stock seat or a Corbin GF and Lady saddle with the backrest to be fitted.

I can, will and have shipped international for anyone interested as well. I accept PayPal for those interested and will include the transaction fee in the shipping charge. I am just being up front on the costs for everyone in trying to be fair to all.

The kit consists of the following list of parts; the first 3 are the biggest expense. I can get a discounted price on 250-1223 and 250-4379 for anyone interested in buying the pieces and building the kit themselves. All I charge is my cost plus shipping. The rest of the parts were sourced from NAPA Auto parts here in the US. If (and someone has) you acquire the Servo unit from someone else and need the rest of the kit I can also supply the bracket and small parts separately for you.
If you source the servo and divider from me it will come with the 3 year warranty that my supplier gives as an authorized Distributor.


Rostra Cruise Control
250-1223
Divide by 4 Module
250-4379
Starter Stop & Cruise Switch Assembly
35013 MAM A70
Wire Terminal, OEM Shell Terminal Housing Female
NW 725268
Wire Terminal, OEM Shell Terminal Housing Male
NW 725267
Wiring Grommet / Rubber
NW 725152
Wire Terminal, GM Weather Pack Series OEM Terminal; 18 - 20 ga Male
NW 725150
Wire Terminal, GM Weather Pack Series OEM Terminal; 18 - 20 ga Female
NW 725151
Fuse Holder, In-Line Mini-Fuse holder
NW 784667
Fuse(s), MINI ATM Fuse; 5 Amp
BK 782-2087
Terminal Extractor Tool, Weather Pack Terminal Extractor Tool
NW 725153
12 volt Relay
MEI1250
1/4 Inch Ring Terminal
85409
18-22 AWG .250 Female insulated blade connector
GB 15-151F
18 Gauge Red Stranded Wire
85732R
To make the install easier. Remove the seat, tank, inner fairing panels, air box, rear cowling, left fairing as your setting on the bike and windscreen. A tip for draining the tank, Block up the back of the tank with a2x4. Take a 6 gallon gas can and prop it next to the bike. Find the return hose coming off the fuel pressure regulator. Gently crimp it closed next to the regulator return barb. Remove the wire clamp and gently rock it free. Put the end of the hose in the gas tank neck, be sure the gas can it vented and release your clamp. The tank will now be draining into your gas can. This method will drain 99% of the tank. You can use a flashlight to sight down into the tank to check your level periodically.
Here is the ECM held down with the factory strap. This shows the ECM and the factory strap holding it down. Remove the strap and lift the ECM out.
The first of the wire taps is installed at the ECM. You will use the red T splice and connector that is attached to the kit wire labeled Blue Tach wire. It will tap into the wire coming out of the harness from the ECM. The location is shown as A19.
This shows how to remove the connector. Push down on the locking tab and work the connector free it is a tight fit.



The wire coming from the harness at A19 will be Yellow with a green trace. Close the tap onto the wire with the connector opening for the spade connector pointing up through the wire bundle. This makes routing the wire to the servo easier. Reinstall the ECM now and plug in the blue tach wire.
The Servo control will be mounted in front of the tail light using the supplied bracket. The bracket I provide in the kit is built to allow for a Corbin Gunfighter and Lady saddle with the backrest post. You will use the same hardware that is already there my bracket sets inside the existing washers as shown. You will need to support the fender as you remove the bolts as it will drop down.
Route the drive cable out as shown.





Disconnect the handle bar control from the main harness at the black weather pack connector. The control harness will run down the left side taking the same route as the factory wire harness.

Lay the wires that exit the loom in towards the center of the bike. Most of these connections along with the divider, fuse and relay will be located in the fuse box area. Pull or push the wires in the loom to get the neatest routing for you.
The lug with 2 black wires is the divider and relay ground lug will connect to the battery negative post. The lug with a purple and black wires for the brake override and main servo system ground and will attach on top of the cruise control cable locking clamp.
The Brake Switch Override Power is tapped into the brake switch connector. You will have to release the locking tab and remove the Green with yellow trace wire from the housing. I use a small flattened awl but a miniature screw driver will work as well. You will need to release the left connector.


Once you have released the connector from the housing cut it just below the crimped section. Strip the wire and add the red wire form the kit and crimp new connector. Install the new paired wire back into the connector housing and put the connector back together
The last connector will be the Speed sensor tap it is located in the center of the bike down by the starter under this water shield.
It is a 3 pin connector similar to the 2 pin you did earlier you will cut crimp and strip it like you did with the 2 pin. The wire you will be working is the Grey and pink.
The remaining connections will be done at the fuse block. Release the fuse block from the under tray post and open the housing top. The remaining connections will all use what I call a solder splice for installation. You will need to remove the connectors from the main fuse block and use this process to connect them. You will need a 40 watt soldering iron with a pencil tip. Do one connection at a time to prevent crossing them up.


Here is a picture of the fuse block and the locking tab along with a released connector.
This picture shows the locking tab. They are located towards the center of the block. If you look down you will see it against the body of the connector. You will need to push the wire up from below to unload the tab then pick it away from the body towards the center of the fuse block. It may be a little hard to release it so be patient.
When it is free pull it from the housing.


The following is the solder splice technique I used for 3 of the system the connections. They will be done at the main fuse box. It allows a solid worry free connection and keeps the wire harness neat and clean.
Start by stripping the kit wire back enough to match the factory crimp section as shown.

Pre tin the wire as shown and the base of the connector in the crimp area. Watch your heat and the wire insulation. I used soldering paste for both connections as it helps heat transfer and keeps the dwell time on the connection to a minimum. Here is a finished connector.
Reinstall the connector in the housing.
Complete the remaining 2 connectors in fuse block the same manner as above.

This is the control switch unit I use in my kit now it is from a Honda GoldWing. The red connector is a plug and play operation now.




You will need to relocate your locator pin hole on your bar to coincide with the GoldWing locator pin. On my Heli Bar I left the brake lever installed and used it as a back stop reference. Taking the housing I closed it around the bar. Tighten the housing down slightly and then rock it back and forth.
This should make a line on the bar you can see. You can now run a line from the center line of the existing hole to the new line. Next I sat on the bike and checked the oriented the control to my liking for the switch face tip.
You will also need to check the cable placement to be sure it’s not hitting the inner cowl face at full lock. It will come close and may just touch but not cause a problem.
If this position is good and the above issues are checked drill the new locator hole. I used a 13/64 drill bit for this, the original pin size is .200 and a 13/64 is .203.




If you want to clock the new control in a different position and have the cable clearance. Gently pull the control out and slide it back against the brake lever bracket. Pay attention to the clocking, try and keep it oriented the same
Once you have done this you should have a good cross hair scratch on the bar. The center point is where you will need to drill the new locator hole. Drill using the same procedure described earlier.
These are the connectors on the switch the fist gen kit build uses a GM 4 pin weather pack connector. The second Gen uses the factory connector.
These are the 4 wires you will be using off the cruise switch section of the switch. The colors are Black/Yellow tracer/White squares, White/Black squares, White/Yellow tracer/Black squares, White/Blue tracer/Black squares.
You will need to cut strip and crimp them with a good crimp tool or a good pair of small pliers. I found a set of wire cutters worked real well. There is also a good tool from this company it’s not cheap but I have found it very useful. Tools
The wire stripper pliers I used before and shown in this Picture came From Home Depot they are made by Gardner Banks P/N GS 55. I used the pliers end to crimp over the housing one side at a time. It will cover 2 of the crimp sections with each squeeze. Center the wire and set on side then flip and set the other then crimp the last 2 tabs. The Eastern Beaver tool does the same but sets both sides at the same time. You will have to shift to catch the last ones as well.
This is what a finished crimp will look like. Be sure to have a small amount of wire above your crimped shell to give it a good anchor. The insulation shout be right next to the last crimp shell so the when you set the grommet the wire is properly strain relieved.
The grommet is then slid up against the crimped section of the wire and the remaining metal tabs are crimped around it to hold it in place. I used the same pliers to carefully shape it around the grommet. This is how it should look when you’re done.
The Harness wires from the cruise kit will be Solid red which is a wire you will have to run from the fused connection that is tapped into the clock wire coming out of the fuse box. The connections will be paired in the following sequence for the control switch and Cruise Main Harness.
PIN
Cruise Harness
Switch Wires
a
Solid Red
Black/Yellow tracer/White square
b
Red/Brown race
White/Black squares
c
Green
White/Yellow tracer/Black squares
d
Yellow
White/Blue tracer/Black squares
Here is how the switch side of the connector will look.
And how it looks connected to the main harness.
I had mentioned you will need to run a red 18 gage wire from the fused power tap at the fuse box. You will need the fuse holder I list in the parts listing. One end of this will need to be connected by a solder splice to the factory wire at the fuse block. You will need to release the connector from the fuse block using a pick. The connector is locked in place with a plastic locking tab you can see when you have pulled the fuse from the fuse block. You will need to tap into this fuse block at 3 different points. I will list each one separately as we need them. The removal procedure is the same for each one. Only do one at a time to keep from crossing them up when you reinstall them. Here is a picture of the fuse block with the connector removed. If you look closely you can see the tab I mentioned. You will need to carefully pry this back as you push the wire up into the fuse block. By pushing the wire up into the block you unload the tab that can have a small indent that tends to lock them in place over time.
Route the wires up along the same route as the existing factory harness on that side. Beneath the gauge pod you will find a large bundle this is where the factory connector is. Cut the tie straps and unwrap it. The new control switch will plug into the red harness connector here and the black weather pack connector you routed earlier.
Wrap the 2 connectors back up in the plastic cover and install 4 new tie straps.
Route the throttle control cable outside the frame like this. It will come back inside the frame just under the rear subframe attachment point.


You will need to drill a small pilot hole on the tab on the throttle assembly. Use a 5/64 drill for the pilot hole. Set the screw using some blue loctite.
Loop the end of the control cable around the screw below the washer as shown.
The end of the cable will feed up through the throttle bodies as pictured.
You will need to route the cable from here back on the inside of the main fuel line for the tank. It also runs inside of the overflow line and above the sender wiring as well.


Start by installing the fuel tank in the front mount. Set the back down on a piece of cut 2x4 to prop it and then route the cable as described above. It is important to note the connection for the fuel tank connector as the cable must go between it and the tank to keep from being bound when the tank is seated with its factory bolts. Install the main fuel line and overflow line. You will need to route the cable from here back attaching the clamp at the factory ground point but do not tighten it yet. Pull back on the cable housing to take out the slack in the cable. Mark the cable and then move it forward in the clamp to establish the 1/16 inch slack adjustment. Mark lines in both sides of the clamp to ensure proper placement in the locking clamp.
Install the main ground and relay ground lugs from the cruise control harness stacked as shown and tighten the clamp keeping it set to your earlier marks and running straight towards the throttle bodies. Be careful to maintain the 1/16 inch slack.
With all of the connections made you are now ready to power up the system and run through the system checks described in the Global Cruise Universal Application Installation and Owner’s Manual. At page 20. You will set it up using the Open Circuit Control Switch. I am including it here for you as well.



Below is a picture of the LED you will be looking for.


IX. SELF DIAGNOSTIC TESTING PROCEDURE
The GlobalCruise is equipped with a RED Self Diagnostic Surface Mount Light Emitting Diode
(LED) located underneath the rubber grommet on top of the CRUSE MODULE. Utilize the following Self
Diagnostic Procedure to troubleshoot your cruise control if it does not function properly once
installed.

Carefully follow the procedures below to enter your cruise control into Self Diagnostic Mode.
Step 1: Turn the cruise control switch OFF.
Step 2: Turn the ignition to the OFF position.
Step 3 Open Circuit Control Switch (See Page 23): Turn the ignition switch to the ON position
without starting the engine, hold the RESUME/ACCEL button down while you turn the
cruise control switch to the ON position.
Step 4: The Diagnostic LED should be OFF at this time. You are now in Self Diagnostic Mode.
Continue to follow the procedures below to test your cruise control switch, brake switch connections
and VSS signal.
Step 5: Press and Release the SET/COAST button. The LED should light each time the button is
pressed and go out when it is released. If so, continue to Step 6; if not, go to Step 5a.
a. Check steps to entering Diagnostic Mode and test again.
b. Check Programming Switch# 12. It should be ON for a Normally Closed Circuit Control
Switch and OFF for a Normally Open Circuit Control Switch. (See Page 23): If set
incorrectly, reset and reenter Diagnostic Mode.
c. Check power to the CRUISE MODULE if none of the diagnostic commands are functioning.
d. Check Cruise Control Switch (See Page 23).
Step 6: Press and release the RESUME/ACCEL button. The LED should light each time the button is
pressed and go out when it is released. If so, continue to Step 7; if not, go to Step 6a.
a. Check steps to entering Diagnostic Mode and test again.
b. Check power to the CRUISE MODULE if none of the diagnostic commands are functioning.
c. Check Cruise Control Switch (See Page 23).
Step 7: You will need a second person to help you perform this test. Press and release the Brake
Pedal. The LED should light each time the brake is pressed and go out and you will hear the relay clicking when it is released. Ifso, continue to Step 8; if not, go to Step 7a.
a. Check steps to entering Diagnostic Mode and test again.
b. Check power to the Red Brake Positive wire.
c. Check power to the CRUISE MODULE if none of the diagnostic commands are functioning.
d. Check Brake Switch Connector and wiring to brake switch.
Step 8:
a. Vehicle’s own computer as VSS source: Roll the vehicle at least two (2) meters forward or
backward, the LED should flash and continue to flash at the same rate. If so, continue to
Step 9; if not, go to Step 8ai.
i. Check steps to entering Diagnostic Mode and test again.
ii. Check Programming Switch# 10. It should be ON for Square Wave Input. If set
incorrectly, reset and reenter Diagnostic Mode.
iii. Some vehicles need to be pushed more than two (2) meters. In that case, raise one (1)
of the vehicle drive wheels (both drive wheels on a limited slip differential) and block the
non drive wheels. Use a support stand for safety. Spin the drive wheel by hand as fast
as possible. The LED should flash and continue to flash at the same rate. If so,
continue to Step 9; if not, go to Step 8aiv.
iv. Either your VSS wire is incorrect or your connection is bad. Inpect your VSS
Page 20 connection and reenter Self Diagnostic Mode.
Step 9: Your Global Cruise 2 has successfully passed the Self Diagnostic Testing Procedure. If it
still does not function, test your TACH signal.
X. TACH SIGNAL TESTING PROCEDURE
Step 1: Turn the cruise control switch OFF.
Step 2: Turn the ignition to the OFF position.
Step 3: Open Circuit Control Switch (See Page 23): Turn the ignition switch to the ON
position and start the engine, hold the RESUME/ACCEL button down while you
turn the cruise control switch to the ON position.
Step 4: The Diagnostic LED should be flashing. Rev the engine, the LED should flash
faster at higher RPM’s. If so, your TACH signal is valid, if not, go to Step 4a.
a. Check steps to entering Diagnostic Mode and test again.
b. Either your TACH wire is incorrect or your connection is bad. Inspect your
TACH connection and reenter Self Diagnostic Mode.
General Wiring Diagram
Once the above has been checked and verified you are ready to take you bike for a ride. The cruise will engage at any speeds above 25 mph. Guard the on off switch or cover the brake for the first time. Engagement should be just like a car setup. I have noticed a drop back of about 5 mph before resuming if I roll on the throttle to pass someone and then deccel back to my set speed. Try this yourself and get used to the reaction. Test the brake override and with both brakes you won’t need to apply it much as you noted in the Troubleshooting section. You can also test the tach safety cutout at this time as well. Pull in the clutch the rpm will come up about 1500 or so as I have tested it at speed at 45 and 75 mph.

If you have any questions or need any help feel free to call me at 517 242 6177 or message me at [email protected]
V/R
Brian Lobert
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Thanks, beestoys, for an excellent article. Very well done. You made it look so easy even a caveman could do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Still playing with the setup I have noticed a little surge but nothing bad. Very rare but if it starts to get to big I have found that rolling up the throttle just above the setpoint then coming back down slowly settles it. If I find a better setting I'll update. But so far it makes the 40 mile trek to work a lot smoother
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok here is the latest update went back and did some adjusting and talked to Tom at Rostra.
It is very important to get the cable slack at 1/8 of an inch it helps to keep the surge under control.
I also redid the control settings after talking to Tom. I set the Engine / Set Up Timer to 8 cylinder low and reset the Gain to Extra Low. This removed the runaway surge I was experiencing.
There still is still some surge on the initial setting, depending on your speed it will be more pronounced. Which makes sense as our bikes make better power as the rpm goes up. What it works out is a surge at 70 of about 3-5 mph for a split second. You may get as many as 6 pulses till it settles but they are very small compared to the first. They are so minor I had to try it a few times to be sure of the number. The most I counted was 6, it usually settles after the initial surge.
Again just letting everyone no so there is no surprise when it first comes on.

Resume can do the same thing I have only noticed if I come in lower that the set speed some times. If you come in high it settles very quickly.

Up and down steps with the accel and coast settings are about 1mph for each time you hit the switch.

The last thing I will be trying is to up the pulse counter to 24000 from the 19300 it was initially set at. It was another fix Tom recommended if it still surged after checking the slack and making the 2 above adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Added thumbnails, the link for the full size photo is below it if you need the full detail.


Thanks to Shewie and Heisti for showing me how to get the thumbnails on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
OK this should be the last update from me on this.
Made the last change by switching over to the 24000 pulses per mode rate and it took out all but a very minor burp when it first comes up. But then it immediately settles to speed. So that is the last change to the install. Hope someone else can use this and enjoys it as much as I do. Again if you have any questions drop me a line

V/R
Brian
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Thanks again. This is quite excellent and I hope to do this mod during the next winter interlude.
 

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Thanks again. This is quite excellent and I hope to do this mod during the next winter interlude.
Good idea that will give you time to get all the pieces together. It will take a couple days to get it all done taking your time to get everything right. you'll want to make sure the 4 pin connector coming down from the control switch is a little closer to the engine. Mine was fine but I would move it a little farther down to make tucking it easier.

Look up the divider on ebay I think I saw one for a bit cheaper than I paid.
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Okay, will do.
 

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the mad hungarian
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Excellent article, and just in time as I want to have one of these in and sorted out for a 12 hour LD rally coming up here in September...

Question: I've seen setups here running the Audiovox CC-100 vacuum unit and not bothering with the VSS signal, just running off the tach. Did you consider or explore that option with this unit? Would save having to buy the signal divider for the VSS.
Also, you claim to not use the Dark Blue tach signal wire in this setup.
What happens if you pull the clutch in while the cruise is on... how would the unit know to shut off and not send the engine revving to the limiter?
You do mention replacing the dark blue with a red wire, where does that go? Please pardon my ignorance if I missed something here...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Excellent article, and just in time as I want to have one of these in and sorted out for a 12 hour LD rally coming up here in September...

Question: I've seen setups here running the Audiovox CC-100 vacuum unit and not bothering with the VSS signal, just running off the tach. Did you consider or explore that option with this unit? Would save having to buy the signal divider for the VSS.

I looked into building a divider for my application using an octal divider. You can but the issue then becomes getting the components mounted to a board and a voltage regulation circuit to get it down to the 5vdc value my unit uses to trigger the clock. The Audiovox is only capable of reading 8000 PPM max. You may experience a heavy surge do to the power to weight ratio of our bikes and the resolution factor of only 8000. I know with the Rostra just changing from 19300 PPM to 24000 PPM on a 20000 target the unit was looking for made BIG difference in the pulsing issue. And they had the divider with a 1 year warranty. Youy could talk to Tom at Rostra and see what they offer.

Also, you claim to not use the Dark Blue tach signal wire in this setup.
What happens if you pull the clutch in while the cruise is on... how would the unit know to shut off and not send the engine revving to the limiter?

Rostra recommends not using the tach signal with their setup. You would also need to add a switch that detects the clutch being disengaged. The tach signal is actually used in conjunction with a neutral switch on a automatic transmission. You would not intentionally pull in the clutch in any situation. Natural reaction is to hit the brake at the same time and the unit is set up to disengage when you activate the brakes.

You do mention replacing the dark blue with a red wire, where does that go?

That would have been the tach signal wire I removed because I don’t use it. This allowed me to reduce the number of connectors going in the loom to one. I use that one connector for the control switch inputs

Please pardon my ignorance if I missed something here...

And there is no such thing as ignorance I tried to set this up to be as simple as possible your questions only help me to refine the procedure for others

V/R
Brian
 

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Throttle Meister cruise control. Took about 15 min. to install. Looks great, works great. Cost is around 140 to 150 dollars & worth every penny, check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Agreed
But if your pulling a hill take a heavy head wind or come up behind a truck you will have to adjust. The cruise is a set and relax as it will adjust for these variables. Nothing wrong with the throttle meister if you just need a throttle lock and don't mind the above action.
 

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Throttle Meister cruise control. Took about 15 min. to install. Looks great, works great. Cost is around 140 to 150 dollars & worth every penny, check it out.
I've got one also. Looks great, works great.
CC is a totally different animal though and is by FAR superior to a throttle lock.
My Audiovox cost $30 + installation costs (figure 3-6 pax X $5.49 = $20)
Mine is wired to VSS
 

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Discussion Starter #18
RXX
Perhaps if you get the time do a quick piece on how you got the VSS hooked up. If its the vaccum unit most are installing they usually use the tach input. It would be a great addition for folks to know how it is wired and works for you.
 

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RXX
Perhaps if you get the time do a quick piece on how you got the VSS hooked up. If its the vaccum unit most are installing they usually use the tach input. It would be a great addition for folks to know how it is wired and works for you.
I don't quite remember, I was drinking pretty heavy at the time. Stuff that complicated scares me and ethanol gives me courage. Must have been pretty straightforward, cause I ain't a rocket scientist and it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ahhh
Beergogglitis :rotfl:
Well if you figure it out there would be a lot of happy folks.
 
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