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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem.

Ever since I have owned my bird in January this year I've had difficulty in opening the petrol cap. The previous owner has also. I know this because you can see punch marks on the front of the cap where they have tried to stop it catching on the inside of the filler hole.

But I have come to realise that, that is not the problem. Opening the cap is so much more difficult the lower that I have allowed the fuel to drop before refuelling. So this indicates to me that a vacuum is building up in the tank as the fuel drops. Once the cap has been opened it then opens without too much trouble.

I've not noticed any fuel performance issues other than the O2 sensor problem which I've now cured with the help of this forum.

It's becoming a bit of a pain as I'm paranoid about snapping off my only key in the petrol cap lock.

She is a last generation XX6 FI model. Thanks.


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Only one key, is an invitation to trouble, I think. I've never had your issues and I have two original keys. Get a second key asap, lock smith, dealer, Partzilla if possible. I can't comment on the vacuum issue. I've rarely let my tank get that low. I like to top it up when 1/2 full.
 

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My first thoughts are that the breather is blocked/pinched if have a vacuum building up - check that the hole is clear inside the neck and then the pipe attached to it.
I have had this issue when my supercharged Bird has got very hot (and thirsty!) I have fitted a slightly larger dia tube.

about snapping off my only key in the petrol cap lock
as CB has said you really need to get a spare these things are made of chocolate metal.
 

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I always have to press down on the front of the cap then turn the key.

Stex, out
 

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Any ideas on which tube it is?
Yes, it's the one on your left!

Trying to be a bit more helpful, black 'rubber' (as they all are) comes down on the LH side of the fuel pump and is (if I'm not mistaken) the smallest dia pipe. The other one in that area is the overflow tube which runs from the same area and it won't do any harm to check this one as well. Both vent to atmosphere.
 

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All good advice above. As CB says, get a new key made ASAP. When they break, they break fast! You don't want to be stranded. Narrowly missed that fate myself. The search engine won't cooperate, so I can't provide a link to my own HISS key replacement episode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys. Yes I know I need to get a new key and wish I hadn't mentioned it now as I'm constantly having nightmares over it.
I would have got a new one by now but haven't got the key number tag. Like a muppet I didn't realise that I didn't have one until a few weeks after collection. So on previous experience thought probably not worth going back to the dealer. And just hoped I'd never need it. But since losing the other key I've been filled with paranoia.
Will need to enquire soon but don't fancy forking out for a new ignition barrel/system.


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Replacement keys are not a big issue.
You can buy an un programmed key from David Silvers
Your local 'quick key' cutting place can cut it
Then
1. The dealer can programme it (no need for a tagged key) - they charge @£75
2. If you are a hands on person drop me a PM with your Email address and I will send you the instructions on how to do it.
 

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FWIW, check your new key as soon as it is cut with the bike at the locksmith in the seat, tank and ignition. Mine had to be redone to work in all 3 cylinders,
and this was at the supposed best locksmith in NJ. Make sure to check the steering lock!
 

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Wise advise.


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Lube filler cap one time/year with can grease help for good fonction for long time.
 

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i had a stiff petrol cap last week, got some WD40 and squirted it in the keyhole also squirt it around the locking mechanism underneath the cap the key action is now as smooth as a babys bottom and the key spins round when i now press the cap down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i had a stiff petrol cap last week, got some WD40 and squirted it in the keyhole also squirt it around the locking mechanism underneath the cap the key action is now as smooth as a babys bottom and the key spins round when i now press the cap down.
I did think about doing that but guessed that the petrol would just wash it away pretty rapidly. But I'll give it a go. The silicon spray I use on my caravan door seals should hopefully stop the seal sticking too.


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WD-40 is a no no. it's a solvent.
Yup. It will work for a bit, then start sticking again. Graphite is the better bet.
 

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+1 on the breather ... +2 on a new key ... +3 on graphite grease for the lock and silicon grease for the rubber seal :D
 

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FWIW, check your new key as soon as it is cut with the bike at the locksmith in the seat, tank and ignition. Mine had to be redone to work in all 3 cylinders,
and this was at the supposed best locksmith in NJ. Make sure to check the steering lock!
Well, in my case locksmith refused to cut it so i visited the dealership for the new key.
 
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