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Discussion Starter #1
i have a 1998 BB, carbie, 38,000 miles on it, rode it everywhere and love it.
However, it has been sitting for 6 months. It will start / idle - sort of, but dumps gas out of the overflow/ carbs. I have done the following:

1. read some posts
2. put a new fuel strainer in side tank
3. put new gas in tank as well as added some gum out.
4. checked gas line connections= ok.
5. visual observations only...

I have not been thru the carbs yet, but think its needles or other things... looking for some advise CBR 1100 lovers.

thanks
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Sounds like one or more floats/valves are stuck. Gentle tapping on the carb body may help, but you may end up having to drop the bowls.
 

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NEED WORK!
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Afraid not.
You need to remove the carbs (pretty easy to do man..) flip them over, unscrew the bowls, and check the little float needles inside.
If you dont feel confident, a bike shop could clean the set for you, no probs.

Do try to give them a little tap at the bowls, on each one of the 4, with a little hammer. And I mean tap them, dont HIT them...
 

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If the carbs are over flowing while the motor is shut down one might assume that the auto shutoff valve /petcock has failed on the underside of the fuel tank. The auto shutoff is turned on by engine vacuum. If the engine is not running then the fuel should not be flowing. If fuel is flowing and over flowing the carbs while the engine is not running you may have a double system failure...a stuck(sunk) carb float/s,..and a failure of the already mentioned auto shut off valve /petcock on the fuel tank. Was the bike stored on it's center stand (straight up) or on the side stand? If on the side stand it could be that this has allowed something to happen to the carb floats as the fuel evaporated from the float bowls on the carbs. Sometimes it is possible to dislodge a float bowl by rapping on the carb float bowls...that said the XX does not really allow easy access to the bowls with out removal of the fuel tank and maybe the air box or a fairing side panel.

Be sure to check and smell the engine oil and ensure that it has not been diluted with fuel from the carbs. If "yes" an oil change will be in order once the problem is sorted. Also ensure it is not the auto shutoff valve/ petcock diaphragm drain line you see leaking below the bike. This might present the same as a carb overflow..puddle of fuel under the bike. If the diaphragm is shot and is leaking fuel this will also lead to lack luster fuel delivery to the carbs and thus give up fuel starvation to the float bowls most likely.

Good luck.

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i just stopped by the honda dealer, ordered some new parts- needles and gasket kit, so the weekend will be greasy....
the next item on the list is the brakes...
 

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Well what needles did you get? The float valve ones or the slide needles?
Also no "need" to replace the gaskets unless they are damaged. You can keep them for laters and reuse the ones you have 9unless they re damaged..)

Here's some heads ups on working with the carbs on the bird man.

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES TAKE THE CARB BODIES APART. (i.e. separate the bodies from the set of 4)
You need very specialist equipment to put them back right..

Do a good clean on them as well btw. Start at the outside with a brush and some petrol to clean them up nicely and continue inwards.
This would be a good point to squirt some wd40/antirust/lube spray/w.h.y to the fuel screws and let it set for a while.
I like to do jobs like this on a nice clean work area, with a nice big cloth layed in front of me.
Try to not mix the carb bits you take off (i.e stuff from carb1 with carb 2 etc), so use some nice little containers and be tidy in general.

I would not do this "by the book". I mean by this that the Honda service manual, tells you undo the bodies etc, assuming you are a dealer and have competent personnel and propper tooling for the job.

You wanna remove the carb tops and bowls and the intake flutes off. You really do not need to remove other bits (well besides the stuff in these openings).
Grab some carbs cleaner spray and squirt loads of it inside ALL the holes you can find. A good blip of compressed air helps blow the grum away.

Make sure you take your time and have coffee/tea/whiskey nearby to have the odd sip, or two.
This can be pretty fun to do and its very rewarding.
Have fun man.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
all- its fixed.
it was a bad needle valve ( sp) under the float. I replaced all 4 and the bowl gasket. Cleaned out the jets and bowls. put it back together and it works... now I have a sticky throttle cable. any solutions ?
 

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Are you sure it's sticking and not kinked or pinched somewhere? These things have teflon liners that theoretically don't ever need lubing.
 

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If you removed the carbs to do your needle valve replacement (most likely) this would of course require that the throttle cables be disconnected from the throttle barrel on the carbs. As often happens those of us with anal tendencies (raising hand here) would like all to be neat and tidy come the re-install of the parts. You'll have noticed that the "B" cable (pull to close) ends up with a lot of slack in it to enable it to be removed, same goes for the "A" cable (pull to open). When we re-install them typical is to put the "B" with little to no slack in it. If all else is good (correct routing and free operation of the throttle sleeve) the "B" cable , lacking slack, will cause the whole system to bind and be slow to operate. I'd suggest you re-visit the cable adjustment side of the install and put slack in the "B" (pull to close) cable and see what happens. I have found that there needs to be more slack then you might think correct. I must state again,..the above assumes that all else is correct with the rest of the parts.

Other items to consider:
1) throttle sleeve is sticking for some reason..maybe bar-end is to close (far in) and it binding on the grip.
2) worn and frayed cables binding on the armor coat cable housing.
3) If the carb set has been apart there may be mis-alignment of the throttle plates/rods that will not let the system function in free fashion (one reason not to totally breakdown a set of carbs).
4) Heavy cable lube used and there is now goop slowing cable action down.
5) alignment and space issues between the throttle housing and throttle sleeve and the front brake MC assembly.
6) As Shewie states...kinked or pinched cable/s.

HTH

Tony
 

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all- its fixed.
it was a bad needle valve ( sp) under the float. I replaced all 4 and the bowl gasket. Cleaned out the jets and bowls. put it back together and it works... now I have a sticky throttle cable. any solutions ?
You sure it's the cable?
Remove the bar end and see if it still sticks ....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yea SCRAPPY - I think its the bar ends sticking, the bike was sitting for a while and alot of the rubber parts are getting stiff.....My plan is to get it back in shape and ride. Im in the MD/ DC area with lots of hills and , soon, some fall color.

BIG PS - I wanted to thank everyone for the posts / help. The CBR manual is good, but not as good a what you all posted.
 
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