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Front Master Rebuild seal question?

1515 Views 35 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Jetfire
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I got my order for the rebuild kit from Jaws but only one seal. The response to questioning the missing seal from Jaws was "it only comes with one" and a photo. Can you tell me what's correct and if one is it, which one do I replace? Jaws order came in three days, incredibly fast. Thanks for any clarifications!

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I hear you, don't blame you for just putting it behind you and getting it back on the road, it's the last thing some one needs to have to chase parts. Keep at it it will be fixed soon enough 馃憤
Still waiting...sanded and painted forks, then swingarm, then touch ups. Waxed the paint off some areas, Repainted front fender. all for one little rubber seal> Wish he would of fessed up and just sent the missing seal. Lets see, what can I spiff next? Ha
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Hmmm that isn't good, Did you reorder with jaws again?.
Second kit at supposed discount never came. Reordered first one found on ebay and got it in three days. Installed and got the de link kit put together with both masters rebuilt. Both looked brand new inside so strange it failed? Now Im struggling bad with front. Back went smooth but front gives zip. Attempted pre bleed lines unhooled at bottom and light lever action. Then vac with syringe at bleeders, then cracked banjos with lever pulled. Zip. Took apart and checked kit and insides again. Clean. Brake cleaner any ways and back together with all attempt techniques to zip! Sheesh, a month lost with just a fluid change planned. Now de linked and stymied.

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Are you saying you cant get pressure at the front now?
Next time fill the system and try bleed again, then leave your front brake lever over night pulled in, use some elastic band or a ziptie.
If you cant get pressure it sounds like you have an airlock, basically a bunch of air stuck in the system until its cleared out.

If all this doesn't work and you still have air in the system, you could take your calipers off, and front master cylinder, I would take your brake lever off it it helps you pass the main body of the master down and out the back of you forks.

Then with them all off, you could set them up so the calipers are in the air above your master cylinder, remember though to use some wood inplace of where the discs should be, then full the system and bleed away, up and out the caliper bleed nipples, then as a complete system put it all back on.

Oh I just seen you mentioned about the broken bango tang, I dont think that's the problem my self, it doesnt seem to interfere with the bango matting surface.

when the master cylinders usually plays up, 99.9% is its just the rubber seals have worn just enough to stop working properly, the bores are usually fine.
unless your rebuild kit was from china then that should be ok.
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Thanks b ditty! started at the procedure of removing the master to check pressure then attaching banjo and two lines letting them fill with gentle lever action. Then bled at bleeders. And first time I saw air bubbles with fluid! After a couple rounds saw the infamous bubble cluster and knew it was happening!
Took her out for first spin and after some warm up they started grabbing nice.
Is there a way to get more lever up front ? Lever needs to come in to grip for emergency stop and finger move may be required. Adjustable levers adjusted all the way out.

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Kind of anti climatic finish. Loved putting her all back together and now the weather changes. Got the test ride in and rains happening here. Temp drops sop may not get the longer tour I had planned when we had 80s thru Sept! Nice to get her back and sorted thou for sure!!
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Kind of anti climatic finish. Loved putting her all back together and now the weather changes. Got the test ride in and rains happening here. Temp drops sop may not get the longer tour I had planned when we had 80s thru Sept! Nice to get her back and sorted thou for sure!!
If the lever is adjusted all the way out but you still finding the lever is travelling backwards a lot, then you still have air in the system, try leaving it over night with an elastic band pulling the lever in, and leave your bike on the side stand, so the mastercylinder is at the highest point, it can help the last few bubbles escape in to the mastercylinder.
You mite find as well that after a few more rides out, if you give them 1 last bleed the normal way, the last few bubbles should come out the bleed nipples.

I know, it can be frustrating bleeding brakes, but you just have to take your time, you will get them if you persevere.
It only takes a few tiny ones to give you a squishy lever action.

It mite feel like an anti climax, but winter might be the most important time of year were you actually need brakes to work properly.

Way to go though, after all the shit you went through with your mastercylinder seal fiasco lol馃憤.
Oh and 1 last thing, you mite find your brakes feel a bit different than they used to be, since you have brand new lines now and there more direct to the calipers, and you dont have the secondary mastercylinder action any more.
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Thanks! I don鈥檛 plan on doing any thriller Miller Stoppies, but will be great to have positive feel like rear turned out!
WooHoo! Overnight lever hold was the answer! Perfect tight lever now. Cheers!!
A bit of insight as well. You'll need to cover the master bleed back port. Because when snap the lever closed it will squirt back into reservoir. Pay attention when you squeeze lever you will see little micro bubbles come up in the reservoir. If you keep pulsing ot you'll clear trapped air as well
Be persistent you'll be amazed how well it works. For brakes as well as clutch.
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Thanks bees, took her for a short ride yesterday to test the brakes and front is fantastic. Rear seems to take some warm up meaning pressure is there solid and all, but no grab until some testing stops with a lot of pressure. Then it gets better each use. Is this normal? Function good at pistons. Pads still over 75%.
If they are EBC HH'S. More pronouncd if they get really wet
If they are EBC HH'S. More pronouncd if they get really wet
Heart out to ya bud! Just read your accident post. Wowzers! My hit couple seasons back was just a doosey bump and luckily she hit the brakes and not the gas with grand kids in the back and cell phone in the front! Get well soon and thanks for your time, very much appreciated!
Is there a best brake pad to replace front and rears? Thx!
The HH'S have been the go to for alot of bikes I've owned and wrenched.
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The HH'S have been the go to for alot of bikes I've owned and wrenched.
Dude! I'm only replying for your entertainment while on the mend. Wishing you fast healing bro!
Not sure of the shoes but brushed em up after cleaning the calipers and pistons. Ready for another test ride. Went ahead and took off the rotors and cleaned the wheels and hubs. Painted scratched inside of forks. cleaned spacers. I wonder if Alum or titanium is avail for these spacers, felt heavy and replaced a few more bolts with titanium ones while doing this clean up.

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