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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,
I hope everybody is doing well!
My Tacho has been unresponsive for a while now, whilst annoying it hasn't prevented me enjoying the 'bird!
This morning, my speedo stopped as well as the Odometer :( All other lights on the dash are ok, fuel needle & temp needle all working...
Is there a single point of failure for the speedo and odo?
I've taken the dash out, I don't think there are any broken connections on the pcb (see image) I'm hoping the discolouration is not preventing connection?
Can any knowledgeable person please tell me how to test the wires in the 2 connectors? (assuming thats the next best place to look?)
I have a voltmeter but am not experienced in using it!
Any advice would be very gratefully appreciated!
Cheers
P
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To set your voltmeter to test continuity, if a wire is broken or not passing current, set the dial to the sound/speaker/radar symbol. When you touch the test probes together you should get a "beep", when you touch the probes on the ends of the wire or circuit you want to test, if it beeps its ok and if no beep its broken or has a bad connection at a plug(if your lucky).
I start by testing between the two screws at the ends of the blackened wire in the dash, the between each of the screws and the wire/strip where the plug goes in.
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Or if it doesn't make a sound if it is a digital and goes to all zeroes then there is no resistance and you have a good circuit if it shows "error" or something like that then no circuit. If it shows 0 to 10 okay circuit but if higher then your circuit is there but is showing resistance and is poor.
Turn your voltmeter dial to the Ohm/Omega symbol or what a lot of think is a horse shoe... the symbol just above Punts' speaker symbol. That is for ohms or measuring resistance.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks very much for the replies guys, that was really helpful.
I tried the 'beep test' and the results are mixed....that is to say I don't get the sound when I test all around the different corroded areas.
Does anyone know if the pcb is replaceable or repairable anywhere (UK)? Seems a shame to buy a 2nd hand dash which will more than likely have semi-corroded wires present anyway (ebay £150-£300)
What is the usual fix bikes of my age with this issue apply??
Cheers as ever, I would be so screwed without this forum!!
P
 

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Another option is to solder a jumper wire ato bypass those corroded lines
 
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You could potentially use tabbing wire (flat ribbon wire used in solar cell connections) then insulate/weatherproof over the top. Keep things flat and neat.


I was using some in my solar panel windscreen project:

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Another option is to solder a jumper wire ato bypass those corroded lines
Thanks Beestoys - not sure my skills are up to that. The pcb is so flimsy that when I took the solder to it it almost made a hole through it without fixing the corroded line! :/
Cheers
P
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You could potentially use tabbing wire (flat ribbon wire used in solar cell connections) then insulate/weatherproof over the top. Keep things flat and neat.


I was using some in my solar panel windscreen project:

View attachment 131553
Thanks Mallow1, not sure my skills would stretch to this....Ill see how I get on with the pen but would probably do more damage than repair trying this!
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Quick update and a MASSIVE thank-you to Punts, Hemisphere07, Mallow1, Beestoys and XXGuy - I've re-traced over any tracks on my pcb that looked corroded (after wiping clean with spirits and scraping back oxidisation to reveal bare copper) using the conductive-ink-pen Punts recommended (and watching some online tutorials) and hey presto I now have a working speedo, tacho and odometer, all for £20 and some very basic drawing skills!
Once again this forum and your helpfulness has saved me hundreds of ££'s and a lot of stress - thank-you guys I literally could not have done it without you.
Here's a picture of my shoddy work in progress, should anyone in the future need inspiration :) my only recommendation would be to try get a pen with a micro tip or maybe a couple of different types of pen to test out as the one got didn't have very consistent flow of ink and meant cleaning up some of the sploges as I went.
Now to buy an 'overcoat' pen to protect the nickel before I get back on the road (y)(y)(y)
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Great to hear you've got it working and at a guess I'd'd say resealing everything is a must else you'll be back where you started pdq! Good job. M1
 

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Just glad to help out.
 

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Wow, never would have thought of a fix with a pen. Glad it worked for you.

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Glad to be of help. I do have to say "isn't the internet great".

The answers are all out there, you just have to ask the right questions.

I'm learning all the time.
 
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