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Leefrik
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Discussion Starter #1
Had CBR XX for a week now and FI light keeps coming on from time to time. Took it back to dealer, cleaned plugs and wiring etc but still happening. Bike still runs beautifully with light on although bike does seem thirsty... do I take it back to dealer again or is there something I can check myself? Just concerned the FI is going to die so soon into owning the beaut... any advice and tips from other Blackbird owners would be appreciated!
 

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Not sure what year yours is or if your part of the world normally has these problems but in the end the only thing that cured mine for good was the Fi Loom Fix and loads of info on just search but I also have some Pictures in my album of said Plug http://www.cbrxx.com/members/11853-albums925.html
You Need to Cut Plug off a Section at a time and solder the 9 wires on one side in there prospective Blocks of 3 then Solder the 10 Green wires all together I used a well Nut full of solder to do that part but this Picture shows you the 3x3 on the left and the 10 that need to be together on the right http://www.cbrxx.com/members/11853-albums925-picture45389.html also you will need Heat shrink to make them waterproof..
 

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Quick check, is the ECM held firmly down (big rubber band) in the tail unit?
If not the bouncing about can cause intermittent glowing of the Fi idiot light.
As bmaughan has asked the year of your bike would be helpful, the 'loom issue' hit certain bikes more than others.
 

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Haven't had to do it yet, but I found this info somewhere a while back.


1999-2000 Honda CBR 1100XX FI Light Fix




The 1999-2000 (FI with analogue gauges) models are prone to a fault within the loom. Symptoms are the FI flashing or staying steadily on for no apparent reason, the bike can still run but can also cut out without warning. You can also get the FI light coming on when you use other electrical items e.g. indicators, brake lights, horn etc. The problem gets worse with time, cuts out more often and then eventually totally shuts down. The cause is a test block that comes out of the loom and is used when the bike is first built to test the various electrical systems, when done it is just taped up onto the side of the loom never to be used again, you wont find it on any wiring diagram in the official Honda or Haynes manuals. The cure is a loom replacement which is covered by Hondas year loom warranty or do it yourself if the bike is over 5 years old, the cost of an official Honda loom is in the hundreds. The cost of DIY is minimal and these are the two methods you can use-


Remove seat and rear cowling,take rear tank bolts out and raise the back of the tank a few inches to give you some room to get at various connectors


DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. This is the location of the connector a mound of insultation tape on the loom just in front of the left side rear passenger footpeg.

Disconnect the nearby electrical connectors including the main earth wire just under the back of the tank as it will give you a bit more room to work as the loom is pretty tight at this point


Cut away the insulation and this is the connector, not a straight through male and female block to join wires up but a dead end 20 pole connector with 19 connected wires within the block.


Took the thing apart but it took a bit of persuading as the corrosion was binding it and this is what I ended up with, doesn't show very well but well furred up.


Used contact cleaner, soft and brass brushes, emery cloth and needle file to clean the male and female contacts and it came up quite good.


After cleaning, doused both parts in ignition sealer(Holts puts on a clear plastic coat), put them back together, covered the outside with it as well, followed by a spray of silicone grease. Taped it all up and instead of putting it under the loom where it becomes the lowest point and collects all the moisture (no wonder it fails) cable tied it to the subframe rail just above the loom making it the highest point.


Put everything back together after spraying and silicone greasing every connector I could see. This worked for me for 3 months then the FI light started coming on again with the brake light, other people have done it and had no further problem to date, I think it all depends how far gone the connector has gone with corrosion when you do it so I went to Plan B.




PLAN B


This is the hardwire method that you may want to use first rather than last as it is a more permanent fix. The block has 20 poles, 19 wires go into it and within the male portion of the block it joins one row of 10 on the one side (all green earth related wires)and 3 lots of 3 on the other side with one unused terminal. All confirmed with a multimeter.


Cut the wires off the connector on the 3x3 side first..they are in their own colours so you don't get to mix them up. When I stripped the insulation off the copper wire was black for a fair way up, there isn't really enough length to try and cut them back to perfect shiny copper so I cleaned them with a small wire brush and contact cleaner.


Soldered the three wires together then used 2 layers of heatshrink tubing to seal them For the main block of 10 the easiest way is to leave the main thicker earth on its own, solder the remaining 9 into three blocks of three. Used a small piece of heatshrink to hold all of them together then dipped them into a "thimble" full of heated/melted solder, sprayed a bit of water on it to cool it down and ended up with all ten soldered together.


Heatshrinked them, covered everthing in silicone grease and taped everything up to the main loom using self amalging rubber tape to seal it.




Started first time, FI light hasn't come on and hopefully thats it. I can see that when it does start to go you might as well hardwire it. If damp has got into the terminals it has also got into the actual wire and connections as well which you can't clean up so it is going to go again anyway.


Fairly easy to do, just take your time, it can be done on your own as I did but would have been easier to have an extra pair of hands to hold the wires in the right position when you are soldering.
 

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01 should be safe.
Check the online service manual in the resources section download the appropriate version and do the loom jumper to get the error code. Then clear it and see if it comes back, If it broadcasts u bunch of different errors chances are they are bogus. But write them down clear them all and see what comes back.. To be safe I would write them down a second time and repeat. If they come back after you have tied down the ECM they may be valid. The manual will also give you test procedures to verify if they are valid.
 

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Leefrik
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Discussion Starter #7
Before I do the loom fix I arranged with the dealer to run it on the dyno next week until the FI light comes on...then we can troubleshoot with the laptop plugged in to make sure its not something more serious.
 

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bladebird
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i had no end of problems with the FI light breaking down and all sorts wasted money before Honda
ripped me of but they done the loom fix and its been a dream since dont chuck money away
listen to good advice i would definitely start with the loom fix before dyno and things like that
 

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bladebird said:
i would definitely start with the loom fix before dyno and things like that
having checked the ECM is held down firmly and the wires and connectors going to it are in good condition. :smilebig:

Yes I know I said the same thing earlier in the thread but such a simple issue really can cause the issue as many others have found out!
 

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having checked the ECM is held down firmly and the wires and connectors going to it are in good condition. :smilebig:

Yes I know I said the same thing earlier in the thread but such a simple issue really can cause the issue as many others have found out!
Second the Duck's advice it's amazing how damn agitated that little black box will get if it isn't limited in it's movement
 

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Fastest snail on Earth
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Loom fix seems feasible for Fi analogues but not sure for FI digital, sad to say that most of us here end up changing the ecm. Coz mine is digital and when i changed the harness, i crack open the old one and there's no fault on the big connectors. Still have the 25 blinks. Lost at wits end now, decided to save up for a new ecm which cost abt $1kMine is an 02 model by the way
 

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Loom fix seems feasible for Fi analogues but not sure for FI digital, sad to say that most of us here end up changing the ecm. Coz mine is digital and when i changed the harness, i crack open the old one and there's no fault on the big connectors. Still have the 25 blinks. Lost at wits end now, decided to save up for a new ecm which cost abt $1kMine is an 02 model by the way
You have the knock sensor issue which does sometime result in a ECU replacement.. The OP hasnt given any indication of fault codes at this point and they may not be related to the knock sensor issue at all.
 

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My 01 was showing all the signs of the loom problem, turned out to be the stop relay or what ever it's called. The one that kills power to the thing. Most of the time it would flicker the FI light but occasionally it would just die. Didn't figure it out till I stuck a multimeter in the tail to chase it down on the side of the road. Swapped that relay and the headlight relay, never had another problem since with anything.
 

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Fastest snail on Earth
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Thnx Uglystick for pointing out the knock sensor issue, my change the sensor first before jumping into the ecu money pit.
 

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Leefrik
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Discussion Starter #16
Seems I got it sorted without having to do the loom fix. By luck I noticed the fi comes on when I wiggled the bundle of wires in the tail piece by the test block. Just tied it down with a cable tie to keep it secure and steady and it didnt come on again.
 

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Could you give us a pic. Would like to see what your talking about. It will also help build on the knowledge base for these kind of one off problems and fixes.
 

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Leefrik
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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks all - had a good look and found one connection a little suspect, secured everything properly and woepa ping, that seems to have solved it! Now to just get the weekend started so I can go for a good ride on The Bird :) Have a safe weekend all!!!
 

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Great news.
Ride safe and enjoy
 

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Hey Guys!

my first post, so please be gentle! ;)

I have a CBRXX03 - digital display.

I'm not sure if it's the same issue, but i'm getting the dreaded error code 25.

I tried replacing the knock sensor- thinking that the workshop manual (that came with the bike) was right.

nope, the bike still gets to about 3500rpm then the light comes on.

I even just tried disconnecting the sensor and the same result.

Is this the same issue?
Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks....
 
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