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Be mindful of the heat gun too. There's plastic up there that ain't gonna be very happy with you. Hence the soldering iron suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I think this one is beating me, neither bolt on the ignition barrel will budge. Not in the least.....

I tried the heat gun, didn’t help.

I tried the impact driver, nothing.

I can’t get a straight on path to the hex bolt so I am using a wiggler (flex joint) in there, which to me always reduce the force transferred, maybe that‘s what’s messing this up.....

The service manual doesn’t mention it, but is there any chance the bolt is left hand threads?

I am thinking this might sit on the shelf until I need to take apart the triple tree, which ain’t any time soon.
 

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It's not a left hander just built to not be easily removed for security reasons.
 

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When you successfully melt the loctite it will release a small puff of white smoke. You then have seconds to attack it with the driver. Honestly don't think a heat gun is right for this job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Well maybe I am not a weak as I thought, found this website:

How to remove ignition lock

Step 5 is to remove the triple tree
Step 6 says “The ignition switch may be secured with either one-time use bolts or hex head bolts, but either way it must be removed with a bolt extractor tool.”

So basically it is impossible to wrench off.

It says this is for an R1, but I don’t think Honda would be too different.
 

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I have that ignition barrel but I don't have the rest of the parts in that set. i bought it because the wires were corroded at the bottom of mine but I managed to get some good solder joints and repair it

The eBay unit is definitely lighter and feels cheaper compared to the OEM one. I'm holding out on the OEM unit and my repair for as long as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Well I got the old ignition barrel out and the new one installed. Had to remove the top triple tree clamp and then used an impact wrench on the work bench. It barely gave it up, I thought it was going to resist the impact wrench but it did eventually start turning.

For persons who might read this in the future trying to figure out how to remove the ignition barrel, in my opinion go into realizing you have to remove the top triple tree clamp and then it is not too bad.

Also for mine, the wire on the ignition barrel is significantly shorter than the original and you will have to route it more directly than the OEM is routed.

Now I got to figure out the seat latch key replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
To close this out with complete info for future readers, the wiring on the ignition barrel I got is not correct for a 1999 CBR1100XX even though it says it is for this bike. Turning the key to the on position should put power to starter, fan and clock circuit (D, E and F of the fuse box). You should have continuity between all 3 or 4 pins on the ignition barrel connector when the key is on.

Mine did not do this, it supplied power to the starter and clock circuit but not the fan. The fan would not come on at all, no matter what temp it got to.

I had to jump two wires on the connector to get power to the fan circuit.

I found several posts on other motorcycle forums about these issues and confirmed it with my multimeter. One person said all Caltric ignition switches are “wired wrong”.... mine was so maybe yours is too.
 

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Personally I dont like the look of "filing" with the gas cap open. Risk of sparks and/or filing in the tank? I'd undo the three bolts and try it well away from the tank and fuel!
 

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My tank lock has stuck a couple of times (1999 bike) and I've freed it up with ACF50 and wiggling! After I once broke a key in the barrel I've done it more carefully since. The barrel itself didn't need replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Conclusions:

I promise this will be the last of this..... probably......

After the issue with the replacement ignition barrel wiring being wrong (not supplying 12VDC to the fan) and I jumped the wires on the connector coming off the ignition barrel I had a “duh” moment.... Just take the switch / wire / connector off the OEM ignition barrel and put it on the new ignition barrel.

I did that and all is good now, the wiring is correct and the wire length is correct, I mentioned earlier the replacement ignition switch wire loom was shorter than OEM and had to be routed funny to get to the wire harness connector. Plus I don’t have some chickenskip jumper in there now.

So my recommendations to any further readers:

1) The quality is less than OEM, but sufficient. Over time this might change but I don’t think so.
2) I highly recommend you remove the top triple tree clamp to get the ignition barrel off, use an impact driver on a work bench. It will still be difficult but will break loose. You won’t get the mounting bolts loose from the bottom with a wrench / extensions / wigglers
3) Take the switch / wire / connector off the OEM ignition barrel and put it on the new ignition. This ensures the wiring is correct. It will require a T10 security bit to get the screws out of the OEM.
4) The replacement gas cap does not fit flat against the tank, up a little in the front. Not bad unless you are OCD’ish.... which I am....... Will try to fix this over time.
5) The seat lock is the most difficult to switch out... just a lot of fiddly stuff to do. You have to remove the rear cowl, the tail light, the ECU (not disconnect, just move).... You have to cut out the clip that holds the OEM seat lock in.

But saving over $200 makes it worth while.
 
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