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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am refurbishing my 1999 Blackbird and want to get rid of the worn out stuff, one item that looks bad is the gas cap in terms of the key action.

It is difficult to get the key to lock and fully rotate 90 deg to closed. It hangs up mid way and have to do a bunch of pushing and twisting.... I am paranoid it might break so have been looking to replace.

On eBay there is plenty of these types:

CBR1100XX lock set

And for $28 bucks it’s like why not. If I replace the gas cap I want all three locks to be the same key, so this seems like a no brainer.

But there is the adage “You get what you pay for”, the official Honda part for an equivalent set cost $230.

Does anybody have experience with these eBay lock sets, I saw a couple of posts here, that mention them but no full feedback on the fit and quality of the items.
 

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I am refurbishing my 1999 Blackbird and want to get rid of the worn out stuff, one item that looks bad is the gas cap in terms of the key action.

It is difficult to get the key to lock and fully rotate 90 deg to closed. It hangs up mid way and have to do a bunch of pushing and twisting.... I am paranoid it might break so have been looking to replace.

On eBay there is plenty of these types:

CBR1100XX lock set

And for $28 bucks it’s like why not. If I replace the gas cap I want all three locks to be the same key, so this seems like a no brainer.

But there is the adage “You get what you pay for”, the official Honda part for an equivalent set cost $230.

Does anybody have experience with these eBay lock sets, I saw a couple of posts here, that mention them but no full feedback on the fit and quality of the items.
Greetings Dug1967, I myself made an eBay purchase of gas cap and ignition barrel with matching keys. Worked great! For 28 bucks I would go for it. Make sure when installing gas cap take note of screw length and we’re they go.
STex, out
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Hello SouthTexas11XX,

Thanks for the good feedback and recommendation, it makes me feel better about doing it.

How long have you had it in the bike?

Also the original ignition barrel connector has only 3 wire
2948423A-69A5-476D-A858-6D6C0843485D.jpeg

But the eBay one in my link has 4 wires, I assume that is for compatibility with other models, maybe chipped keys... Was your also 3 wires replaced by 4 wires?

One further question, what part of Texas are you in? I am a little north of Houston.
Nevermind, I figured ”hey click on his profile and learn to fish, and where ST11XX is located....” Corpus
 

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Hello SouthTexas11XX,

Thanks for the good feedback and recommendation, it makes me feel better about doing it.

How long have you had it in the bike?

Also the original ignition barrel connector has only 3 wire
View attachment 131091

But the eBay one in my link has 4 wires, I assume that is for compatibility with other models, maybe chipped keys... Was your also 3 wires replaced by 4 wires?

One further question, what part of Texas are you in? I am a little north of Houston.
Nevermind, I figured ”hey click on his profile and learn to fish, and where ST11XX is located....” Corpus
Sorry man don't remembe about the wires been a spell about 3 years.
good job on the figuring where I live as this is the first official NO face dipper day in Texas, nothing like fresh oxygen!
Don't ride much, 8 miles to work and back for the daily Blackbird g force rush.:)
Sorry I can,t help, STex, out
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ST11XX,

You gave me all the help I needed, three years and still happy with it..... That is only $9 a year.

As for the “face dippers” 😂 I agree.... nice to not be forced by the gov’t to do stupid stuff. But unfortunately all the stores around Houston still force it anyway. And the throngs of Karen worry warts that will acoust you if your are not diapered up.
 

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What's involved with changing the ignition barrel, are there security bolts that shear off? I could do with a new barrel as mine is getting a bit sticky.
 

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Mine was held in with security torx so shouldn't be to difficult to change them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mine was held in with security torx so shouldn't be to difficult to change them out.
Well damn, Beestoys are you saying the items here listed as bolts require a “security torq” bit to get them out?
image.jpg

I thought I only had irate Karens to worry about, now I got to get security torq bits.
 

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Mine were. But I'd take a look first. Could just be Allen's too. Keep your fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I looked with the “mirror on a stick” and they do require a security torq bit, a small one......

beestoys, do you remember how you got the tool up there? Obviously it has to come up from the ”tire side” but that looks like a challenge.

I guess it it just another opportunity...... yeah.....:rolleyes:
 

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I want to say I used a real long extension to get to it. I'm also thinking you can turn the forks to unmask them too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Actually I was wrong, the bolts shown in the picture from the service manual are a normal hex key, the security torq screws are at the bottom of the unit that hold in the wiring connector.
 

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Actually I was wrong, the bolts shown in the picture from the service manual are a normal hex key, the security torq screws are at the bottom of the unit that hold in the wiring connector.
Whew 😁 that makes it easier then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Whew 😁 that makes it easier then.
Beestoys,

Do you happen to remember if the bolt holding the ignition barrel in were very difficult to “break loose”? Mine are just not giving it up....... Really tight.

All I can get in there is a 4” long ratchet with a 6mm hex bit on and I can’t get enough “ummmpphhhh” to make the bolts break loose.

I am thinking might have to try and get a small Dewalt impact driver on it, but that scares me that it might break the bolts.
 

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Curious as to whether you have tried a lubricant in your locks yet. I work on many older bikes and have yet run into a lock, ignition or gas cap, that I haven't been able to free up without replacing. Had to replace a broken ignition barrel once and was a real pain so always try lubricants first. I included a video that has a great product you might wanna try.
Another product I have also used with great success is Corrosion X.
 

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Beestoys,

Do you happen to remember if the bolt holding the ignition barrel in were very difficult to “break loose”? Mine are just not giving it up....... Really tight.

All I can get in there is a 4” long ratchet with a 6mm hex bit on and I can’t get enough “ummmpphhhh” to make the bolts break loose.

I am thinking might have to try and get a small Dewalt impact driver on it, but that scares me that it might break the bolts.
Locktite? If they are locktited on little bit of heat should do it. A micro butane torch, or if no room, the tip of a decent soldering iron on the screw head if all it takes.
 

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Second that they are most likely loctited in place. I'd do as Fizzy suggests with the soldering iron. Safer than an open flame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Curious as to whether you have tried a lubricant in your locks yet. I work on many older bikes and have yet run into a lock, ignition or gas cap, that I haven't been able to free up without replacing. Had to replace a broken ignition barrel once and was a real pain so always try lubricants first. I included a video that has a great product you might wanna try.
Another product I have also used with great success is Corrosion X.
If you are asking if I tried lubricants in the locks, yes I did, both WD-40 and Silicone lubricant and it didn’t help. It is the gas tank lock that is acting up. The gas cap lock just refuses to turn the full 90 deg when it’s closed and release the key, have to start twisting the snot out of it. It does eventually fully turn 90 deg and give up the key, certainly could live with it, but Why? :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Locktite? If they are locktited on little bit of heat should do it. A micro butane torch, or if no room, the tip of a decent soldering iron on the screw head if all it takes.
Don’t have a torch, do have a soldering iron... But also have a heat gun, that seems like a better choice than the soldering iron tip....

Now that y‘all have mentioned loctite that seems like how it feels. It has been a while since I went after a loctit’ed bolt but I remember the solid resistance it offers up.

Need to find the heat gun.
 
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