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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody seen this before on the Beaver upgrades? Friends went Sat, 2nd time in 2k miles/2 months. Hes no idiot on electrics and everything's installed as should be. Main 30 amp fuse from reg/rec to battery. First time it went was put down to the newly rewound stator (300?miles) burning out. Replaced with a low mileage OEM one. Coincidentally we know of another one doing exactly the same on the same day.

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Ade what gauge wire is leading into that connection and I'd possibly suspect the fuse material itself. especially if they are both from the same source.
 

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Looking at the size of the fuseholder, I'd be suprised if the cable into it, being generous is larger than 2.5 mm. For 40 amps youd need 4mm or better still 6mm, so cable would get hot, it's prob cheap thin contacts as well= more heat. Put a waterproof cover on fuse and you now have an oven to bake the insulation on the fuse. See your photo.
 

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Kris
Was thinking the same thing. And also the fuse material makes me suspect too by its appearance. The link should have popped long before that melted like that.
40 Amps peak is not a lot but my BB typically sees 20 amps steady for about 15 minutes of riding after setting all weekend. If that wire gauge is only the smaller diameter you mentioned it's a recipe for disaster.
 

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Seems like Mr. Beaver got to eager to make some $$$. That's what happens when a simple and completely common electronic issue that happens on all vehicles (shitty loom) gets hyped to one company and presented as the magic silver bullet solution. Any local electrician half worth his salt would fix the loom issue, there's nothing rocket science about Bird's loom, or any 20 year old Honda loom for that matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Bit of an update. The fuse shown came from a multi chain car/ bike et etc store - Halfords so possibly a cheapo fuse. The other that went was the original Beaver fuse so presumably decent quality. The fuse holder and cable on both are original Beaver parts. Not sure on the gauge as no markings on the wire but the O/D is 3.6mm. For comparison my SH847 loom from Roadstercycle is 4.5 O/D. Maybe just different sheath size. :idunno: Seems strange that these supposedly superior upgraded looms are failing.
Edit....wonder if one of these may be better? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Qiorange-12V-24V-Circuit-Inverter-Protection/dp/B07GP4K34T/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_1/259-8879947-5818951?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07GP4K34T&pd_rd_r=abeae970-a260-11e9-bc22-9d30c2800323&pd_rd_w=lRNQV&pd_rd_wg=hM0FE&pf_rd_p=92d624bb-a334-423e-8722-8024dd09667f&pf_rd_r=4NY2HJN4VFWWQYXZSZKZ&psc=1&refRID=4NY2HJN4VFWWQYXZSZKZ
 

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Ade- if your outer diameter is below 5mm, I'd be suprised if the conductor is over 2.5. The orient also does some funny sizes different to ours. Run the bike for a normal ride, stop her and immediately feel the wire. If it's warm to the touch, keep an eye on. If it's hot, ie spit evaporates off it, change it. If it's in flames, get the steak out.
 

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I've been looking at maxi fuse holders and switching over to a maxifuse for mine. I actually took out the self setting breaker jack sells with his kits when I installed my series regulator from him. I've switched to a 30 amp ACG fuse that's the same size as yours Ade. But the gauge of wire feeding it is 12 so it's a bit more robust. But it's still getting warm hence the research into the maxi's. With my ambients up in the triple digits i don't want to push it. It's working fine so far just so you know.
 
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