Honda CBR XX Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, going for it with the de link install and what appears simple already stopped me up. Looking forward to defining my stupidity or getting direction,
Picture shows replacement piece for Secondary Master on front fork.
The secondary Master is threaded for the two mounting bolts.
The piece replacing is not. It just says mount it after putting the horseshoe end from secondary on it.
There is two SS bolts with SS washers, SS nuts and 1/2" SS spacers that came in its own bag. They (two bolts) fit in the holes where the secondary and are correct length.
But directions say; "Fit the Two Blanking Bolts (with a washer, stainless spacer, washer) to the lower two banjo bolt holes on each front caliper."
I didn't get any other non banjo bolts and no parts list with the order. Great pic of all to be removed.
These two SS bolts obviously don't fit the caliper holes yet online I saw a video of the set up complete and where the spacer washer went on lower caliper holes.
Am I missing two blanking bolts?
Thanks guys!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
I think you re use the 2 lower banjo bolts already on your calipers, plus a new spacer and washer on each.
You should be fine with the secondary replacement plate even though it's not threaded.
And you will have to sort the rear out as well since your deleting the linked system, hopefully another member can chime in, I haven't done it my self.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Is that jaws or hel kit? Idk the answer to your question but I saw this post with pic from Ghazzah original link: jaws de linking kit

And his picture for reference not sure if it's any help
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,027 Posts
The two long bolts with washers and nuts are used to bolt that SMC replacement bracket to the fork leg.

One of the double banjo bolts goes in the front master to connect two brake lines.
The other double banjo goes in the rear master to connect two brake lines.

The spacers are for using on the lower banjo of the front calipers ( it replaces the old brake line banjo )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hey thanks, it's a Jaws kit with Hel parts.
It did work out the way you said but used couple of extra banjos sent. One double at front master, on double at rear master and two short at rear, and one short at each front caliper. Equals two dbls and 4 shorts. They sent two dbls and 8 short banjos. Whatever.
Does someone sell a rear supply line in smooth shine black or even red thats not silicone? My old braided gets a cover but should probably be replaced.
Thanks guys.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,027 Posts
hey thanks, it's a Jaws kit with Hel parts.
It did work out the way you said but used couple of extra banjos sent. One double at front master, on double at rear master and two short at rear, and one short at each front caliper. Equals two dbls and 4 shorts. They sent two dbls and 8 short banjos. Whatever.
Does someone sell a rear supply line in smooth shine black or even red thats not silicone? My old braided gets a cover but should probably be replaced.
Thanks guys.
You use two more short banjo bolts ( with the supplied spacers ) to blank off the final two unused banjo holes in the front calipers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I de-linked my bird. I did not use the supplied blanking bolts. I went to my local hardware store and purchased some stainless steel, round head allen bolts. I had to cut them the length I needed, no big deal. No spacer needed, they look really nice.
Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Bicycle chain Bicycle part
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Had a tough time bleeding the rear lines and saw a technique on line that you all probably use. A syringe and tube did it! In fact such a big chunk came out initial pull I thought the tube came loose? but next couple and lever finally had full tension!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,027 Posts
Had a tough time bleeding the rear lines and saw a technique on line that you all probably use. A syringe and tube did it! In fact such a big chunk came out initial pull I thought the tube came loose? but next couple and lever finally had full tension!
I always use a vacuum bleeder - much easier than the old manual system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
I've always used large syringes in the past with fish tank air hose, and fish tank air pump one way filters to do the final bleed. I've done bmw abs pumps with them as well.
The main thing I do is get a bucket of soapy water and a spray bottle on stand by just incase lol, and it does help to slow down and try not to force it through.
A few years ago I did one of my blades with a freshly powder coated front wheel, I wasnt paying close enough attention and the syringe popped off the bleed nipple with the fluid going all over the wheel, causing the fresh black powder coat to instantly go a white milky colour in places, noooooo lol. A quick bucket of soapy water stopped any further damage... I sat there using the f word quite a bit, then thought owell, see if polish will clean the white off, it didnt, so I got a polishing compound out, I think it was g3 or g4, and it did the trick, took the white top layer off, and went back to gloss black, you couldn't tell in the end, but lesson learned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hey guys, the de link directions say ;
#7- Remove the two middle bleed nipples on the front callipers and drill the nipples through, approximately the same size as the bleed hole in the nipple. Be sure all swarf is removed, refit the nipple and replace the rubber cap. This is to vent the piston to atmosphere and stop it jamming out.
Can anyone define this better for the nuub? Anyone use a screw back in the hole vs bleeder. Is this saying drill thru the calliper so bit is actually coming out bottom side?
Thx!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,027 Posts
Hey guys, the de link directions say ;
#7- Remove the two middle bleed nipples on the front callipers and drill the nipples through, approximately the same size as the bleed hole in the nipple. Be sure all swarf is removed, refit the nipple and replace the rubber cap. This is to vent the piston to atmosphere and stop it jamming out.
Can anyone define this better for the nuub? Anyone use a screw back in the hole vs bleeder. Is this saying drill thru the calliper so bit is actually coming out bottom side?
Thx!
Find a drill bit the same size as the hole in the bleed nipple - then continue the hole with the drill bit until it goes out of the other end.

It does not mention drilling the caliper in the jaws instructions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Find a drill bit the same size as the hole in the bleed nipple - then continue the hole with the drill bit until it goes out of the other end.

It does not mention drilling the caliper in the jaws instructions.

Its on their Tech Info for the de link page #7.
So I will see the drill bit out the front of the caliper casing? Punch it thru ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,027 Posts
Its on their Tech Info for the de link page #7.
So I will see the drill bit out the front of the caliper casing? Punch it thru ?
It says :

7. Remove the two middle bleed nipples on the front callipers and drill the nipples through, approximately the same size as the bleed hole in the nipple. Be sure all swarf is removed, refit the nipple and replace the rubber cap. This is to vent the piston to atmosphere and stop it jamming out.

It does NOT say to drill the caliper
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top