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Crash wing update...
Finally had a chance to work on wings. Some pics

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Rough cuts, basic shape


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Rough cuts, basic shape


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Rough cuts, basic shape. And ofcourse wing would be horizontal not flat like pic above.

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Rough cuts, basic shape. Right and left wing

Next, give it a slight airfoil, Smooth them out, make 3 bolt holes. then cut two segmented pieces. Then wrap it using Vvivid vinyl. Not sure on colour yet!
 

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Looking good
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 · (Edited)
Update to the design based post crash test, bendy v brittle bolts and need to prevent damage not just to body work but to mounting points on engine case and frame considerations.

I came across Renner race bungs

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A two bolt staggered set up. A few advantages:
Frame bolts are rated at 12.9
Bung bolts are rated at 8.8 (i.e. softer).
Advantage, bung bolts are the likely ones to bend and/ shear. Any damage transfer to their mount point is most likely now to be the replaceable bridge piece of metal.

So engine and frame have an extra degree of protection compared to my R&G original set up and my first wing prototype.

In now adding my wings I've gone for bolts rated at A2-70. If I've understood the rating system properly they are slightly softer than 8.8 bolts and A2 is more corrosive resistant. A4 was listed as marine grade but was markedly more expensive. Given these are sacraficial parts I'll test the A2 set first re salty winter roads.

Another advantage of the staggered system ought to be during fitting, chielfy where to cut through the fairing. They'll afford an "arc" of accuracy. If I cut in slightly the wrong place there's a degree of flexibility re the hole just has to be along that arc not bang on an exact point.

Further advantage may be better flex re exact desired placement of the hole re the fairing vents. That may help re either mounting them horizontally flat or slightly raked to match the lines of the bike/ vents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
Fitted the Renner mount set up (inc their 2cm alu chuncky spacers) and fitted my Harley Wings to replace their bungs and my Chinese fairing (like a Saville Row suit… its a first fitting… tweaking and fine tuning to come).
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A few additional mods to the lower fairing to come too (my exhaust down pipes aren't OEM so need a touch of extra clearance requiring shaving the right hand panel a touch on the underside) and then to add the radiator cowl.

Then I can move on to cleaning up the forks and foot peg hangers.

But phew… wings fully installed and looking exactly like the photo shop mock ups I made except both are below the vent line on both sides, so match, and currently rotated flat/ horizontal (though with scope to tweach a couple of degrees of elevation/ depression should I so wish re the aestetics of the lines of the bike versus uplift/ downforce concerns). Comments welcome (esp as not yet committed to cutting a wing shaped hole 1/8" larger than the wing as Lovin' suggested… just using large alu spacers behind the panels and door draft excluder foam edging sandwiched between the panel and the wing to cushion the minor gap and limit incidental scratching). The journey continues! (y)

Lovin', how is your set coming along?
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Hey Malo! You seem to be good with photoshopping. Would you be able to rotate the wings so that they're horizontal?

Never got round to photoshopping your horizontal request but my actual wing are horizontal and because of the dog-leg design of the Renner mounts both are mounted below the vent line on either side.

Although my pics are a bit fuzzy and black wing on black panel is harder to see than black on red… it all works!
 

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hi Mallow
its an interesting set up
i cant see the " under faring cover " support set up for the wings but i guess the support arms are bolted to the top of the alternator cover? let me know if i have that right?
im wondering where the rhs is bolted to?
any pics ' undercover ' would be welcome
thanks paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
View attachment 129115
A two bolt staggered set up.
Hi Paul,

Later today I may have a panel off and be able to take an insitu photo. In the meantime have a look at post #64 above. The picture shows the hardware involved (albeit with the Renner bung not my wing).

The assembly bolts to the bike via the front engine mounting points on both sides (replacing the original bolts with the Renner ones). Seems the strongest point and in common with many bung/ shroom set ups.

The lozenge shaped "bridge" piece (which holds the head of the engine mounting bolt in a recess and receives the tip of the bung mounting bolt to act as its nut), is free to rotate 360° around the engine mounting bolt (until tightened up to).

So where the bung mounting hole is cut through the panel is up to the user to decide so long as it lies on the circumference of a circle subscribed by the rotation of the lozenge when untightened.

The two bolts are approx 1.5cm apart (centre point to centre point) so that gives you about 3cm difference in potential positioning of the hole through the panel in any direction (up/ down/ forwards/ backwards). That seems to be enought to allow for the slight differences in vent height between the one on the rhs v lhs.

Also, if one truly wished the bridge could be replaced by a custom one and the bungs therefore positioned wherever the user wants.

There's a small round spacer between the frame and the lozenge approx 1cm deep by 2cm diameter. It helps accommodate the curve in the bike's frame (re allowing 360° positioning) and a larger cylindrical spacer (c. 3cm long by 3cm diameter) between the lozenge and my wing. The hole through the panel matches the size of that spacer so the bung/ wing doesn't clamp down on or sandwich the panel itself.

Coincidentally the spacer matches the round shaped buldge on my wing present at the mating point. Result!

Hope that helps until I take a picture.
Rgds Mallow1
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 · (Edited)
Anyone who has cut their panels to fit shrooms will know what a challenge it can be to get the hole in the right place.

Most fitting instructions talk about applying wet paint to the head of the engine mounting bolt (unscrewed far enough that it will touch the inside of the panel when it's fitted. Therefore the paint marks where the hole needs to be. My set up is even more tricky as once you've identified that point you then have the off set to factor in the lozenge and it's ability to rotate 360° around the point.

So the paint method can messy, a touch imprecise and the lozenge adds extra degrees of inaccuracy.

This is my second set of panels I've ever cut. So the insights I've learnt are:
a) Locating where to cut: I prefer not to use the paint technique… it's too messy and most of the time you've moved the panel a lot before getting it settled in final position which smears the paint and is time consuming re panel on/ off.

So what I did this time is use triangulation. Both side panels have three main fixing points (each has a bolt at the top and two at the bottom towards the rear and mid points). On each side these three form the points a triangle within which the engine mounting bolt lies.

The theoery re triangilation: with the panel off, measure from each bolt to the engine mounting bolt. Then on the panel use a piece of string set at the length of each measurement and draw a small arc where the engine mounting bolt approx lies from each of the three holes. Where the three arcs cross is the mounting bolt location.

For the lozenge: From that centre point found above, draw a circle (radius being the difference between the lozenge bolt hole centres). The hole to drill can be chosen to lie anywhere on that circumference, so I chose mine to be beneath the vent lines on either side.

Sounds complicated but thats just the theory. There's actually a swift easy practical way.

In practise get some:
  • string, marker pen, masking tape (or a small post-it tag) & bluetak
  • three panel mounting bolts,
  • the engine mounting bolt and spacer from your bung kit.
Then?
  • on your bike (with panel off), swap the old engine mounting bolt for the new one with its spacer (bolt in loose-ish, no need to fully thread or tighten it up so long as it's cotrectly in position).
  • pop two of your panel bolts into their holes (they'll sit proud due to their shoulders). Again loosely but good enough to be positioned correctly.
  • tie a loop in the string at one end and pop it over one of the panel bolts
  • feed the string out to the engine mounting bolt, wrap it around the spacer, pulling it tight enough to remove the slack but not so tight it's like cheese cuttimg wire and tie it off around the spacer (tightly & mark the string so you'll know if it's slipped later).
  • feed the string out to the second panel bolt, pull it tight (as before), tie it off on the bolt. Mark the string so you can tell if it slips later and cut the rest of the string off (if you wish).
  • undo the two panel bolts (careful your string doesn't fall off them)
  • remove the engine bolt (careful the spacer doesn't fall out of the string.
You now have a piece of string with a bolt at either end and a spacer captive partway between the two.
- pop a chunk of bluetak onto the spacer (on one of the bolt hole faces)

  1. Place your panel on the floor/ work surface (outside facing upwards edges protected as if likely to scratch).
  2. Pop your two panel mounting bolts into their holes respective holes (don't mix them up… rem "loop" on one bolt, string with mark on the other) and add a washer and nut to each to hold then in the correct position.
  3. hold the spacer (bluetak downwards) and pull the string tight from both bolts and gently place on the spacer on the panel (bluetak holds it in position). That's the engine mounting bolt location.
  4. now pop the lozenge onto the spacer and rotate it to the desired position for the bung/ shroom bolt hole to be cut. Mark the location (I used a piece masking tape and the marker pen poked through the lozenge hole).
Remove everything bar the masking tape. The mark is your position to cut you hole.

b) Cutting the hole:
  • drill a small pilot hole first.
  • fit your bung/ shroom mounting bolt, spacer, lozenge to your bike.
  • position your panel and look through your pilot hole to check it lines up with the lozenge bung mounting hole. You may need to rotate the lozenge until you're happy all does indeed line up (else adjust as nec and redrill pilot if nec to fine tune the position.
  • once happy you're ready to drill the final bung hole with the bigger hole cutter. Any fine tuning pilot holes will almost certainly be within the bigger piece now being removed. That saves the horror of several attempts to adjust if a pilot hole and double check wasn't used.
Boom… almost millimeter perfect hole cutting.

Well it at least it worked for me as you can see from the earlier photos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Looks good Mallow, here's hoping you never have to test them.
Thanks Fizzy… though never have to test them "again" is prob more applicable.

I took a spill last Oct and the wings proved themselves re limiting damage to the bike and me (I had an ankle trapped under the bike which came free almost instantly which otherwise would have been pinned between the bike and asphelt for the full slide if my old shorter R&G bungs had still been on).

At that time the wings were mounted on one very long engine mounting bolt each. One sheared (when I bent it back to extract it), one just bent a bit bent. Also the lower fairing wasn't on at the time (as I was swapping new for old so couldn't test the fairing protection or clearance dynamics).

So here's hoping the new bolt mounting set up (dog-leg) doesn't get tested! Amen to that!
 

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a truely well thought out and executed system bravo mr M
the regular crash bobbins are almost useless as they are too high up and will shear the frame plug and that is more expensive than plastic
btw i see that your oil cooler lines could do with some passivation , you cant buy them any more and the hel lines cost a hell of a lot
btw i tried to restrain myself as the skirts lifted ;-))
paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
My oil cooler lines most definitely are in need of passivation and so are on my TLC To Do list. I'm slowly working my way around my bird renovating and inovatimg as I go (I've had her from new). It's one heck of a learning journey for me as I'm no mechanic!
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
… I see that your oil cooler lines could do with some passivation , you cant buy them any more and the hel lines cost a hell of a lot…
Wow you weren't kidding about the oil lines (out of stock, hiddeously expensive etc). I'll have to kerp a weather eye out on fleabay!
 

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rare as rocking hose poop on the bay they rot and in crashes are wiped out
the best is to save what you got
mine were even worse but i carfully sanded them to bare metal and then passivated and zinc painted them but they are certainly more fragile than before
i actually have 1 new in the original honda wrapping lhs one that i found in a " i sell it all guy " on the bay a year ago but i guess thats the last one ever to be found new... typical honda to let the bike whither and die
im going to start to make the mirror covers soon and if that works out andd i can pay back the mould ill probably make some kind of replacement oil line that is less pricey than the 160 gbp that hel demands...
paul
 

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Never got round to photoshopping your horizontal request but my actual wing are horizontal and because of the dog-leg design of the Renner mounts both are mounted below the vent line on either side.

Although my pics are a bit fuzzy and black wing on black panel is harder to see than black on red… it all works!
Gotcha! MMmmmm dog-leg design... Trying to see how I would incorporate. BUT NOICE job!
Pic small and a bit fuzzy, I presume that with dog-leg it's locked in place to prevent rotation on impact?
 
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