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around here... Around same spot as this cylindrical frame slider... AND horizontal. And is close enuff to bracing beam that run across...

 

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you talking right in this area

Crash mushroom.png
 

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Actually thinking your spot on but rather than bore any holes just build your base to incorporate both of those holes. The lower 2, Stay far far away from that upper one. The frame is hollow cast so there is no real support there. That's why it always bends when it take a good impact. If you spread the base of the slider between those 2 mounting bolts the stagger should reduce its chance of trying to tip the bolts backwards and bending them. The large base plate will help spread out the forces as well.
 

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I agree with beestoys not to bore any holes in the frame and to use a large baseplate. Larger the better. No point in saving the bodywork if you damage the frame.
 

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Thank you Bees and Fizz. So, base plate with four holes. Two for wing and two to fasten base plate using the 2 mounting bolts, so welding won't be necessary except for welding nut ends on the base for wing bolts.

20200208_160338.jpg
 

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Yep sounds like a plan. And the frame is going to be very strong, the area there is solid casting. It would take a little fab work but what I would do is build 2 pads from round stock that would locate in the bore of the upper and on the flat of the lower on the back of your plate. It'll take a little weld fab but the strength increase should be very high. I would also flatten out the tip of your sliders. The increased surface should give the wing a longer wear life before you get to body part damage. It should also help get the mass slowed down do to the higher resistance.
 

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Yep sounds like a plan. And the frame is going to be very strong, the area there is solid casting. It would take a little fab work but what I would do is build 2 pads from round stock that would locate in the bore of the upper and on the flat of the lower on the back of your plate. It'll take a little weld fab but the strength increase should be very high. I would also flatten out the tip of your sliders. The increased surface should give the wing a longer wear life before you get to body part damage. It should also help get the mass slowed down do to the higher resistance.
Actually going to use both bolts to hold plate. However, will need to find longer bolts. The wing will run 2'' from root to the tip at 1". I wanted a fairly beefy tip. When you say "build 2 pads from round stock..." you mean welding something like 2 round lugs on the back side of the plate to fill those holes? Then bore the lugs? Mmmm... Noice! If I understand yes! AND would really "lock" the plate in place. It would take some work BUT would make it more solid! Thank you man! Oh! Might be able to find a 1/2" long alum. (or cut to required length)sleeve with a lip. That would save a ton of work...

No "lugs" in this updated diagram. AND I'm no artist! Lol Just enuff to get those VISUAL PEOPLE on board! Since I have no BB yet can't really tell how wide I can make the base plate... 2" may not be wide enuff...

20200209_021912.jpg
 

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Lovin
Yes use 2 lugs at the right height welded on the base to lock it in. You could also counterbore for the mounting nuts giving 3 more locking points for the base slider element.
What size bolt do the crashbungs use on the other manufactures for a center bolt. That's the bolt I would use for the primary. Then for the sections I would drill out the holes your showing but then comer back and use the same material in a bar to back fill and leave a nub sticking up as a reference pin to lock each section together.
2 inches wide at the base should be ample enough.
 

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Looks more of a stunt cage. But the effect would be pretty good I would think. But I agree needs a bit of grooming. Bet it does the same thing as your first design dual points will fix yours right up and not be so in your face.
 

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Lovin
Yes use 2 lugs at the right height welded on the base to lock it in. You could also counterbore for the mounting nuts giving 3 more locking points for the base slider element.
What size bolt do the crashbungs use on the other manufactures for a center bolt. That's the bolt I would use for the primary. Then for the sections I would drill out the holes your showing but then comer back and use the same material in a bar to back fill and leave a nub sticking up as a reference pin to lock each section together.
2 inches wide at the base should be ample enough.
Okay. Crappy realization... Will need to cut 1/8 perimeter around the wing in a horizontal plane... Vented lines are offset, left side is 2 about higher landing above vent line whereas the right side fall just below vent line... starting to look crappy? Just imagine these wings in a horizontal plane position!





Main bolt will be 10mm(not grade 8!) and other two will be 8mm.

Sorry Bees, quick diagram? Not following... "back and use the same material in a bar to back fill and leave a nub sticking up as a reference pin to lock each section together." Their will be three bolts.(Actually 4!) 10mm dead center and two 8mm on the ends, so segmented parts will have 3 bolts going through with alum sleeves so alignment shouldn't be an issue.
 

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Looks more of a stunt cage. But the effect would be pretty good I would think. But I agree needs a bit of grooming. Bet it does the same thing as your first design dual points will fix yours right up and not be so in your face.
Agreed...
 

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Was thinking in place of the 2 8mm bolts to use the parent material and insert that in the holes but with a stub poking up about 1/2 inch to locate the sections. Reasoning was to give it just the bung to grind on instead of hitting a harder bolt. Which might make it more prone to bending.
Well kick me in the nards. The lower edge is different lower by 1/2 inch measured from the bolt center to the edge.
I'm thinking the at them both being horizontal regardless of the duct line will not look as bad as you suspect. If we could get someone to photoshop the pic you could get a better visual of it.
 

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Hey Malo! You seem to be good with photoshopping. Would you be able to rotate the wings so that they're horizontal?



 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Hey Malo! You seem to be good with photoshopping. Would you be able to rotate the wings so that they're horizontal?
I'll give it a whirl (though a touch difficult to match exactly where the engine mounting bolts protude. I'll look at my old fairing re where the R&G ones were cut).

Re your concern re wings giving lift at mega speeds; firstly in their current downward angle they are more likely to increase downforce and drag. Placing them horizontally will reduce their drag. If you are concerned about uplift in that orientation a) give them a symetical profile (zero lift) or a touch of inverted wing profile and you'll induce downforce making you stickier on the road (though in reality I'd say they are too small to produce much effect other than at +140mph onwards).
 

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I'll give it a whirl (though a touch difficult to match exactly where the engine mounting bolts protude. I'll look at my old fairing re where the R&G ones were cut).

Re your concern re wings giving lift at mega speeds; firstly in their current downward angle they are more likely to increase downforce and drag. Placing them horizontally will reduce their drag. If you are concerned about uplift in that orientation a) give them a symetical profile (zero lift) or a touch of inverted wing profile and you'll induce downforce making you stickier on the road (though in reality I'd say they are too small to produce much effect other than at +140mph onwards).
Gotcha! Thank you Malo! I will do symmetrical profile... Was thinking along those same lines! Actually will do semi symmetrical or inverted wing profile. As you mentioned I'm sure the lift is negligible...However those hyper speeds may produce some marginal lift that I probably don't want to feel! May cant it by a couple of degrees downward.
 

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Or just put on stone or so.
 
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