around here... Around same spot as this cylindrical frame slider... AND horizontal. And is close enuff to bracing beam that run across...
Actually going to use both bolts to hold plate. However, will need to find longer bolts. The wing will run 2'' from root to the tip at 1". I wanted a fairly beefy tip. When you say "build 2 pads from round stock..." you mean welding something like 2 round lugs on the back side of the plate to fill those holes? Then bore the lugs? Mmmm... Noice! If I understand yes! AND would really "lock" the plate in place. It would take some work BUT would make it more solid! Thank you man! Oh! Might be able to find a 1/2" long alum. (or cut to required length)sleeve with a lip. That would save a ton of work...Yep sounds like a plan. And the frame is going to be very strong, the area there is solid casting. It would take a little fab work but what I would do is build 2 pads from round stock that would locate in the bore of the upper and on the flat of the lower on the back of your plate. It'll take a little weld fab but the strength increase should be very high. I would also flatten out the tip of your sliders. The increased surface should give the wing a longer wear life before you get to body part damage. It should also help get the mass slowed down do to the higher resistance.
Okay. Crappy realization... Will need to cut 1/8 perimeter around the wing in a horizontal plane... Vented lines are offset, left side is 2 about higher landing above vent line whereas the right side fall just below vent line... starting to look crappy? Just imagine these wings in a horizontal plane position!Lovin
Yes use 2 lugs at the right height welded on the base to lock it in. You could also counterbore for the mounting nuts giving 3 more locking points for the base slider element.
What size bolt do the crashbungs use on the other manufactures for a center bolt. That's the bolt I would use for the primary. Then for the sections I would drill out the holes your showing but then comer back and use the same material in a bar to back fill and leave a nub sticking up as a reference pin to lock each section together.
2 inches wide at the base should be ample enough.
I'll give it a whirl (though a touch difficult to match exactly where the engine mounting bolts protude. I'll look at my old fairing re where the R&G ones were cut).Hey Malo! You seem to be good with photoshopping. Would you be able to rotate the wings so that they're horizontal?
Poor bird caught polio?
Gotcha! Thank you Malo! I will do symmetrical profile... Was thinking along those same lines! Actually will do semi symmetrical or inverted wing profile. As you mentioned I'm sure the lift is negligible...However those hyper speeds may produce some marginal lift that I probably don't want to feel! May cant it by a couple of degrees downward.I'll give it a whirl (though a touch difficult to match exactly where the engine mounting bolts protude. I'll look at my old fairing re where the R&G ones were cut).
Re your concern re wings giving lift at mega speeds; firstly in their current downward angle they are more likely to increase downforce and drag. Placing them horizontally will reduce their drag. If you are concerned about uplift in that orientation a) give them a symetical profile (zero lift) or a touch of inverted wing profile and you'll induce downforce making you stickier on the road (though in reality I'd say they are too small to produce much effect other than at +140mph onwards).