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Ok, putting aside the many factors regarding whether such are helpful or not, if you go for them then I'm talking to you.

I currently have RG shrooms but hate that they are just cylindrical stubs. No semblance of aerodynamics or pleasing aesthetics irrespective of effectiveness. So I'm exploring options.

Thoughts on

1) these… View attachment 116119

They are actually wing shaped footpegs off a Harley. The pegs are a combo of metal plus rubber inserts.

Compared to the RG set,
View attachment 116121
I'd need to re-bore them to take the larger engine mounting bolt and either fitting half inside the fairing half sticking out or halving in size to fit wholly outside.

2) Encase the RG set in covers off something like a pan euro.
View attachment 116123

My personal intent is rebore the Harley pegs and halve them so only a residual wing shaped stud protrudes to the same extent as the RG set did.

Views welcome.…
Hey Malo! Been following as well! Actually since you mentioned it on the "CBR1100XX 00' 100% Cosmetic makeover... BEFORE pictures" thread... One thing keeps buggin me! But just realised there is a fix! Concern... The wings look really good AND will be effective. My only concern is if the wings sit flat flush on the panel weather it is accidentally dropped from a standstill stop or rolling drop(worse!) wouldn't part of the wing also shater part of the panel where it lies flush? Alas! As I said earlier realised quick fix! One could simply Cut hole in the panel and make it 1/8 larger around wing! Presto no contact with panel. Wacha think?
 

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Glad to hear the idea worked crash test dummy and damage to you and bike minimal. Hope the ankle fixes quick
 

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Discussion Starter #23
One could simply Cut hole in the panel and make it 1/8 larger around wing! Presto no contact with panel. Wacha think?
Hi Lovin,

Yer I didn't have my lower fairing on at time of crash. Looking at how the wings bent; left went marginally up and back (the one in contact with the car), right bent straight backwards (one in contact with road).

So defo need wing-profile shaped hole in fairing to allow such to happen. I think I'll try cutting my old fairing first. It at least has holes from the prior RG shrooms as guides.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Glad to hear the idea worked crash test dummy and damage to you and bike minimal. Hope the ankle fixes quick
Thanks Kris. Ankle on the mend. New problem though… seems my Datatool S4 red is one subject to the 2017 safety recall. It just finally failled and immobilised my bird. Seems Datatool will replace for free but it's extra hassle in the meantime as she won't start/move!

It never rains but it pours!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok more feedback re the wings (I'm beginning to see why RG used cylinderical shaped ones).

Once the bolt is bent the wing impedes rotation (to get the bent bolt out). Therefore I've had to try to straighten the bolts first (with the inevitable happening… one has sheared). There's still shank sitting proud (nit much) but I'm not experienced in extraction so may be friendly garage time!

Next set of bolts I'll try for a stronger steel plus bore the wing a touch wider in the hope it will rotates much more readily post a slide/ drop.

I'll also chose longer bolts next time too. Right hand wing folded back on top of the rad hose. Fortunately no puncture (wing is fairly rounded on it's edges) but definitely crimping the hose to almost closed. Don't want anything overheating if limping away from a slide.

Anyone London (UK) based recommend a good place re sheared engine mounting bolt extraction?

Cheers Mallow1
 

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Hi Lovin,

Yer I didn't have my lower fairing on at time of crash. Looking at how the wings bent; left went marginally up and back (the one in contact with the car), right bent straight backwards (one in contact with road).

So defo need wing-profile shaped hole in fairing to allow such to happen. I think I'll try cutting my old fairing first. It at least has holes from the prior RG shrooms as guides.
Ok more feedback re the wings (I'm beginning to see why RG used cylinderical shaped ones).
Kool! Gotcha! Agreed! MMmmm... I'm sure thought depending on impact one might still have to deal with a partial cracked panel. If it should for example bend all the way back. However, cuttin a parameter of 1/8 all around the wing would probably help mitigate that.

Same here Malo! Toes n ankle on the mend at 95% Will most likely be back at work in 2 to 3 wks. Off since Oct 21st!
 

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Next set of bolts I'll try for a stronger steel plus bore the wing a touch wider in the hope it will rotates much more readily post a slide/ drop.

I'll also chose longer bolts next time too. Right hand wing folded back on top of the rad hose. Fortunately no puncture (wing is fairly rounded on it's edges) but definitely crimping the hose to almost closed. Don't want anything overheating if limping away from a slide.
So... 10mm? 12mm? I guess that would depend on how large you can safely bore through wing.... x 250mm? 300mm long? The bigger, the longer, the better!?! :smilebig:
 

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Ok more feedback re the wings (I'm beginning to see why RG used cylindrical shaped ones).
Well Malo I've decided to take the plunge! Bought a square white block of UHMW! Or Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene. this STUFF IS solid! AND will not shatter on impact. I also saw a bunch of cylindrical UHMW! All at half price and more at the "Pick n go!" counter. Would have been so so easy to make one but decided to go the difficult route! And make my own wings. 7 1/4" X 7 1/4" x 5" - Block weight 8.5 lbs/3.9 kg Cost $36CND/$27US/$21BP Actual dimension will be close to Harley pegs... Actual dimensions will be 7(tapered) X 7(tapered) x 2" tapered to 1". Final product will be painted either gloss white with Black stripes or gloss Black with white stripes and should weigh about 3 lbs each... maybe less. Will post pics as I move along.

CBR PLASTIC  BLOCK 1.jpg


CBR PLASTIC  BLOCK 2.jpg
 

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Loving
Haven't got the BB in front of me right now. Buuuttt how is the pad location around the mount point. IE could you incorporate a bit larger base and possibly catch 2 anchor points at the base to prevent distortion on impact and prevent bending the mount bolt.
I'll have a look at mine this weekend and see what my brain comes up with and let you know.
 

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Loving
Haven't got the BB in front of me right now. Buuuttt how is the pad location around the mount point. IE could you incorporate a bit larger base and possibly catch 2 anchor points at the base to prevent distortion on impact and prevent bending the mount bolt.
I'll have a look at mine this weekend and see what my brain comes up with and let you know.
Thank YOU Bees. Unfortunately don't have a bird yet... That's coming but in the mean time using a lot of bikes here on the site that are naked or have panels removed to get a better Idea! The red BB pic Malo put up is a good example where the wings might go... Once I have my bike I will be able to tell(I was thinking...) if the base is long enuff I may make a slot on the base part so that not only will the bolt hold it in place but the base will have a wide slot at an angle basically "locking" the wing in place on the frame. Will need to have the "Right" angle, perhaps 70 or 80 degree down. Now... Push come to shove, I'll have my friend weld a 10mm anchor point onto the frame itself! If I haveta! Location of the anchor point would have to be in a place that's "Strong/solid and not "weak" point of the frame...

2 anchor points at the base would be great... BUT need a bird up close to determine that. BUT "Locking" idea might work... I'm also wondering, if the wing has more contact area compared to cylindrical slider were talking maybe 15mm or 1/2 " radius vs larger contact area of 2' x 6"!? I'm certain on impact the frame may actually dent compared to cylindrical impact... Comments?

20200205_205910.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #32
How about making the wing in segments stacked up and bolted together by two bolts. The bolts provide the two point anchor. The segments allow for easier construction of the curved taper and only require damaged tip segment(s) to be replaced in case of a slide.
 

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Ooh very "Spitfire" wing tip!
Lolol Good eye Malo!! One of my fav! Besides Stucka & Corsair! Great LOOKING planes.

How about making the wing in segments stacked up and bolted together by two bolts. The bolts provide the two point anchor. The segments allow for easier construction of the curved taper and only require damaged tip segment(s) to be replaced in case of a slide.
MMmmm... Didn't think of that! Defo! I will! But will go for 2 replaceable segments only. And use two smaller bolts to anchor those 2 segments in place to prevent movement Will post pics as I move forward. Thanks man!
 

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Loving
Thinking you'll want to keep it online. That way at contact it won't try to plane/plow the ground causing more force to be imparted to the wing.
I'll get a look at mine this weekend and get back. If you were to weld a second anchor point to the frame. As long as it's attached at the edge then the force would be directed across the back face. effectively working across a beam there by allowing a higher strength point. But I'll take a look at my 2k and see what could be easily achieved.
 

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Loving
Thinking you'll want to keep it online. That way at contact it won't try to plane/plow the ground causing more force to be imparted to the wing.
I'll get a look at mine this weekend and get back. If you were to weld a second anchor point to the frame. As long as it's attached at the edge then the force would be directed across the back face. effectively working across a beam thereby allowing a higher strength point. But I'll take a look at my 2k and see what could be easily achieved.
Thanks Bees! Again didn't think of that. Now that you've mentioned it... Maybe just s few degrees downward, perhaps 2 or 3 deg. is enuff. So 87/88 deg. As you well know, my main concern about the performance of the wings besides protection in a crash/stop drop situation is keeping the wing from creating ANY LIFT! Especially when visiting uppertratosphere speeds! However, as you pointed out I didn't consider angle depth when wing would come in contact with the ground.So, 2 or 3 degrees should be okay. Really need good pics to decide whether or not I should weld another achor... So will be waiting with "Bated breath!" Thank you again Bees.
 

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Loving
Thinking you'll want to keep it online. That way at contact it won't try to plane/plow the ground causing more force to be imparted to the wing.

I'll get a look at mine this weekend and get back. If you were to weld a second anchor point to the frame. As long as it's attached at the edge then the force would be directed across the back face. effectively working across a beam thereby allowing a higher strength point. But I'll take a look at my 2k and see what could be easily achieved.
Thank YOU Bees. Unfortunately don't have a bird yet... That's coming but in the mean time using a lot of bikes here on the site that are naked or have panels removed to get a better Idea! The red BB pic Malo put up is a good example where the wings might go... Once I have my bike I will be able to tell(I was thinking...) if the base is long enuff I may make a slot on the base part so that not only will the bolt hold it in place but the base will have a wide slot at an angle basically "locking" the wing in place on the frame. Will need to have the "Right" angle, perhaps 70 or 80 degree down. Now... Push come to shove, I'll have my friend weld a 10mm anchor point onto the frame itself! If I haveta! Location of the anchor point would have to be in a place that's "Strong/solid and not "weak" point of the frame...

2 anchor points at the base would be great... BUT need a bird up close to determine that. BUT "Locking" idea might work... I'm also wondering, if the wing has more contact area compared to cylindrical slider were talking maybe 15mm or 1/2 " radius vs larger contact area of 2" x 6"!? I'm certain on impact the frame may actually dent compared to cylindrical impact...

As you well know, my main concern about the performance of the wings besides protection in a crash/stop drop situation is keeping the wing from creating any lift!(pretty sure that lift is 95% negligible) Especially when visiting uppertratosphere speeds! However, as you pointed out I didn't consider angle depth when the wing would come in contact with the ground. So, 2 or 3 degrees OR I may just follow fairing lines like the red BB on page 1. Not sure yet. I will also shorten wing by 1". Comments?

20200205_205910.jpg
 

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So Malo! After careful consideration I've decided to place the wings on the frame around here... AND will be parallel to the ground.(Nice naked bike!)





Of course, will need to cut into the fairing. Would land just below UPPER vent line. In the pic below the wing is on the lower vent line AND same angle. Now, imagine that same wing on upper vent line BUT will not follow vent line BUT rather horizontal to prevent wing from inadvertently "digging" into the ground upon contact if it should have an angle... Thank you Bees!. AND will have two anchors. Soooo... forget slotting the wing. It'll be flush with the frame.

 

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=S648tbh4o3o&feature=emb_logo

I had LSL sliders on the blackbird. Looked very similar to these but had a very beefy aluminum spacer between the inside of the side panel and the frame and a correspondingly long engine mount bolt. Took a spill once at 10mph. Resulting in a chewed up slider but no damage to bike except a little paint off the mirror.

Lovin, for your design I would recommend the same approach. A very beefy aluminum spacer behind the panel capped off with your slider shape of choice.
Note, the hole drilled in the panel was just big enough to miss a standard washer as a spacer. Slider covered the hole completely.
 

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=S648tbh4o3o&feature=emb_logo

I had LSL sliders on the blackbird. Looked very similar to these but had a very beefy aluminum spacer between the inside of the side panel and the frame and a correspondingly long engine mount bolt. Took a spill once at 10mph. Resulting in a chewed up slider but no damage to bike except a little paint off the mirror.

Lovin, for your design I would recommend the same approach. A very beefy aluminum spacer behind the panel capped off with your slider shape of choice.
Note, the hole drilled in the panel was just big enough to miss a standard washer as a spacer. Slider covered the hole completely.
Thank you Fizzy! Will def. consider! In fact I will! Add alum. spacers through bore for both 10mm bolts.(not sur may go down to 8mm...) These two bolts will also hold the 2 segmented parts together. Thank you Malo! Will post pics of progress...

Since the bike accident on Oct 21. I've had the time to heal AND restart the "New Monster II" project. I should be returning to work progressively in two wks time.
 

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So Malo! After careful consideration I've decided to place the wings on the frame around here... AND will be parallel to the ground.(Nice naked bike!)





Of course, will need to cut into the fairing. Would land just below UPPER vent line. In the pic below the wing is on the lower vent line AND same angle. Now, imagine that same wing on upper vent line BUT will not follow vent line BUT rather horizontal to prevent wing from inadvertently "digging" into the ground upon contact if it should have an angle... Thank you Bees!. AND will have two anchors. Soooo... forget slotting the wing. It'll be flush with the frame.

Right around where?
 
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