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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, putting aside the many factors regarding whether such are helpful or not, if you go for them then I'm talking to you.

I currently have RG shrooms but hate that they are just cylindrical stubs. No semblance of aerodynamics or pleasing aesthetics irrespective of effectiveness. So I'm exploring options.

Thoughts on

1) these… AThumbCut_181024-000806_1540336335538.png

They are actually wing shaped footpegs off a Harley. The pegs are a combo of metal plus rubber inserts.

Compared to the RG set,
AThumbCut_181024-001034_1540337392593.png
I'd need to re-bore them to take the larger engine mounting bolt and either fitting half inside the fairing half sticking out or halving in size to fit wholly outside.

2) Encase the RG set in covers off something like a pan euro.
st1300-pan-european-cover-enginebar-crashbar-right_1540337480718.jpg

My personal intent is rebore the Harley pegs and halve them so only a residual wing shaped stud protrudes to the same extent as the RG set did.

Views welcome.…
 

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Discussion Starter #2
"Black Wing Foot Pegs Rests Cruiser For Harley-Davidson Dyna Male Peg Mount Softail FXCW FLSS Touring Motorcycle"
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/ykE4osY

I've ditched the original hog 8mm bolt (and the fastener it ends in) and gently drill out/ rebore the central bolt hole to 10mm to take the larger diameter (M10) engine mounting bolt (after ordering longer ones plus spacers).

I used the Unbrako Socket head bolts (M10x200mm length) as a good tensile/ strength match to the R&G bolts such that the head would be countersunk not protruding. NB I had to place a special order to have them in fine pitch (1.25mm) not the normal (1.5mm pitch).
https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/BO_ScrewBolt_Unbrako_SHCap_M10.html
Unbrako-Socket-Head-Cap-Screws-ISO-4762-in-BO_1561089359460.jpg

I figured whatever strength the R&G provided bolt was (looking at the designation on the bolt head) that would be good enough for the wing. Obviously we don't simply want something that merely fits but it has to be strong enough to be torqued up properly to play its part in mounting the engine and also not simply snap if the BB is dropped.

View attachment 118761

I figured 200mm long would be long enough to cope with the extra length of the wing compared to the R&G sliders. With hindsight I'd have gone for the more weather resistant bolts over the blackened unbrakos.

Spacers were just off fleabay in selected widths.

So mini wings are currently fitted (saved the bike once already) but without the lower fairing in place yet.

I mention that as I haven't worked out how much fairing to cut out letterbox fashion to let them poke through (and esp at what angle as totally horizontal just seems to collect crap in the rain with minimal run off) else try to extend them enough to be surface mounted through the prior RG crashrooms holes. I figure better not to extend (to maintain strength) at the expense of having to cutting the letterbox.

So bottom line is I don't know yet what the final look will be like (cool or nice idea but crap result).
 

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Hi Mallow,
I have been watching this thread with interest as I like your idea, should look cool when finished but my only concern here is the bolt, surly you should be using a bolt that bends?
If I can explain this right, high tensile bolt will only either snap or damage where its screwed in but say a softer mild steel will bend and not cause any damage to what its mounted in as once the crash bung has done its job its toast anyway.
What you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Hi Gadgey,

I'm glad you're intrigued by my idea and think it may look good too. You're only the second member I'm aware of to join what is now three of us.

Regarding your bending comment. Ah yes Grasshopper, bend like a reed in the wind. Well I agree to a certain extent. A degree of bend helps absorb impact thereby reducing residual energy likely to damage the bike further. Too much bendability and the slider won't be effective at all.

I think that it's a balance of several things that come to play regarding the bolt not being the OEM one and particularly it now being much longer and protruding beyond the frame. So a different scenario to OEM spec needs re tensile, compressive and shearing strength dynamics.

1. This is one of our engine mounting bolts and must be strong enough to perform that job (at least be capable of being torqued up to the right tensile setting and cope with the shearing forces of holding the engine in place). One of those design factors leads to the use of fine pitch thread as opposed to normal pitch. This allows the thread itself (on both the bolt and receiver side) to survive the torque needed as there's greater surface area between the mated parts.

2. In that it is now longer than originally designed, bending as you call it becomes a bigger factor (compressive strength on the inside of the bend, tensile on the outside) as does pure compressive strength. Shearing I'd suggest is still the same, just a more likely cause of failure (now that the bolt protrudes to a much greater extent).

So it needs to be good enough to not simply shear off at the root nor bend like butter (in both cases the slider is effectively useless) nor be so strong all the force of impact is transferred to the frame and engine causing greater damage than that which would have occurred to the bike if a slider hadn't even been used.

How did I decide, well I didn't. I simply chose a bolt with the same strength rating as the one used by R&G on their commercial slider set my creation is replacing. I found this by looking at the designation (the letters/ numbers) on the R&G bolt head. I figure that they are the specialists and probably have done the maths and testing (bench and field, plus consumer cash data), as a reputable, long standing and successful manufacturer of this specific type of specialty product.

That make sense? <img src="http://www.cbrxx.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" />
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Now, you still provoke food for thought e.g.

1. Hybrid solution: keep the original engine mounting bolt and tap a thinner (bendier) extension bolt into it.

Advantage: correct engine mounting, additional "sacrificial" crash bolt (potentially the Harley bolt supplied with the original wing rest with the added advantage of not having to rebore the wing). Less work and avoid weakening the wing by cutting into it. Avoid the cost of the longer non-OEM bolt I currently use.

Disadvantages: not keen to tap into the engine mounting bolt head thereby weakening it. It's also probably not easy to do without better kit than the DIY kit than I have.

2. Don't mount the wing via the engine mounting bolt. Hmmm, current first impression is they look mounted too high. A more "Pan Euro" lower position may look better (but is there an appropriate anchor point?

What do you reckon?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Photoshop image of potential look post reinstall of lower fairing i.e. this is just me playing with stock images and adding what my stubby wings ought to look like. This isn't a photo of my actual completed work. d87c8f8f45b7ae1d887398c2ce208682_2_1561246911407.png
Fyi that's two different versions of Pan Euros either side of a BB for stubby wing comparison.
 

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Hi Mate,
Thats very low and looks to be past the point that if it did go over your nose cone would be damaged, as Krisbiker has mentioned concerning covers, I have carbon covers on the alternator and clutch and bobbins in the standard place, when my son had a slow speed slid the bobbins and covers took the brunt of the slide and it wasn't a big issue replacing them, a nose is a big outlay though.
Although I am presuming that's the only crash protection your using?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi mate,

Well the location is the same as the R&G sliders go and the wings protrude to the same extent. Ergos ought to be no worse than using the R&G set, which many agree are the best (if you are going to use sliders) assuming the wings don't fail totally (gulp).

I'd be interested to hear more re what other protection you have. Additionally I'm mindful that my Beetle bags will bear the brunt of any rear contact point with the ground so I'm keen to look at options there too.

Cheers Mallow1
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sounds like a plan. I'll then see if I can do a photo mock up to see what they might look like.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
… the location is the same as to where the R&G sliders go and the wings protrude to the same extent. Ergo ought to be no worse than using the R&G set, which many agree are the best (if you are going to use sliders) assuming the wings don't fail totally (gulp)…
Well good news and bad news.

Bad news first right? Some "kind" car driver knocked me off in town traffic.

Good news: I can confirm the wings saved not only my body work (inc corbin beetle bags and nose cowl) but also me (ankle only briefly trapped during slide to a halt so minor break not massively mashed).

Bike damage appears to be limited to my rear brake lever, the wings and bolts themselves and my wing mirror indicator lens plus slight bend in the cowling subframe. FYI final install with spacers meant the wings extend slighty further out than the R&G sliders. So the wing idea was well worth their price (£35 for the pair of wings plus £25 for bolts and spacers) and effort of installation.
 

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Glad your alright Mallow. Great to hear but to bad you had to crash test them to verify they worked. Gives credance to putting them where you did as opposed the the higher up point on the frame. That point has always been a bad place to mount in my opinion. Taking a hit with the stock bolts usually kinks the frame itself the bung would probably have written off your frame.
 

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Well good news and bad news.

Bad news first right? Some "kind" car driver knocked me off in town traffic.

Good news: I can confirm the wings saved not only my body work (inc corbin beetle bags and nose cowl) but also me (ankle only briefly trapped during slide to a halt so minor break not massively mashed).

Bike damage appears to be limited to my rear brake lever, the wings and bolts themselves and my wing mirror indicator lens plus slight bend in the cowling subframe. FYI final install with spacers meant the wings extend slighty further out than the R&G sliders. So the wing idea was well worth their price (£35 for the pair of wings plus £25 for bolts and spacers) and effort of installation.
Wow! Malo! Glad to hear your alright!!!! And your ankle? The bike really comes second! But nice to hear the "wings" did their job!
 

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Could you fit on alternator cover on left side? I've found that seems to be a touch down point when surfing on the left. Would also mean bike not disabled due to wearing it thru.
Kris U are correct, recon some wisdom is talking there.
Yepperrs surfing on the left does take out the alternator cover with an oil spill to boot.

Enjoyed the surfing description Kris.
STex out.
 

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Well good news and bad news.

Bad news first right? Some "kind" car driver knocked me off in town traffic.

Good news: I can confirm the wings saved not only my body work (inc corbin beetle bags and nose cowl) but also me (ankle only briefly trapped during slide to a halt so minor break not massively mashed).

Bike damage appears to be limited to my rear brake lever, the wings and bolts themselves and my wing mirror indicator lens plus slight bend in the cowling subframe. FYI final install with spacers meant the wings extend slighty further out than the R&G sliders. So the wing idea was well worth their price (£35 for the pair of wings plus £25 for bolts and spacers) and effort of installation.
Dang Man!!
glad the operator is doing well after that and the product worked good and saved your machine.
It's easier to fix the machine than your body....gear all the time.
STex
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Bee/Luvin/STex,

Thanks guys for your kind words and concern.

Shit… happens to us all as well we know (esp Luvin recently too). Thank goodness nothing was oncoming when I spilt and lay sprawling in the oncoming lane for a while! Still a minor incident in the greater scheme of things.

Great, wings are now crash tested so perhaps changing my avart from DangerMouse to a CrashTestDummy is in the offing!
 
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