Honda CBR XX Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Welding. How hard can it be?
Joined
·
3,643 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Re: Wanna watch my engine/g'box rebuild?

Morning, Scrap!

I take it that you are just talking about the external adjustment and not a motor rebuild?

The adjustment is simple, but takes a while to explain. Get comfortable.

The front counter balancer is driven directly off the crankshaft. There is an external adjuster on the front right side of the motor.
The rear counter balancer is driven off an idle gear that sits between the crankshaft and the balancer itself. The idle gear adjuster is on the left side of the motor behind the starter motor. The rear counter balancer adjuster is on the right at the rear.

The adjusters are designed to move the gears towards or further away from the crankshaft. Too close and it'll whine like a supercharger. Too far away and it'll rattle/clatter like a bucket of bolts. Damage can occur in both scenarios, especially if too tight.

Remove or just back out the three pinch bolts. Not mentioned in either manual is a 'Gaz Trick' of inserting a flat blade 'driver into the 'jaws' of the 'clamp' and widening it slightly so that the eccentric balancer shaft can be turned easily without binding. If it clamps too hard on the end of the shaft, it is too hard to feel the balancer 'tightening' as it meshes hard up against the crankshaft gear.

1. Cold (Static) Adjustment: Engine off, engine cold.

1. Front Balancer:

Turn slightly anticlockwise (approx 1 graduation of the scale on the clamp, or 2mm)

Turn clockwise until resistance is felt (i.e. the balancer is forced up against the crankshaft and can not move any closer (balancer teeth firmly up against the crankshaft gear teeth).

Back off adjuster anticlockwise 1 graduation)

Tighten pinch bolt.


2. Rear Balancer Idle Gear:

Turn slightly clockwise (approx 1 graduation of the scale on the clamp, or 2mm)

Turn anticlockwise until resistance is felt.

Back off adjuster clockwise 1 graduation.

Tighten pinch bolt.


3. Rear Balancer:

Turn slightly clockwise (approx 1 graduation of the scale on the clamp, or 2mm)

Turn anticlockwise until resistance is felt.

Back off adjuster clockwise 1 graduation.

Tighten pinch bolt.


2. Hot (Dymanic) Adjustment: Engine running, engine warm.

1. Front Balancer:

Turn clockwise until it whines. Back off anticlockwise until whine disappears but not so far that it starts to clatter.

Tighten pinch bolt.

2. Rear Balancer Idle Gear:

Turn anticlockwise until it whines. Back off clockwise until whine disappears but not so far that it starts to clatter.

Tighten pinch bolt.

3. Rear Balancer:

Turn anticlockwise until it whines. Back off clockwise until whine disappears but not so far that it starts to clatter.

Tighten pinch bolt.


Now. This is where it gets interesting. By the book (above), all should be honky dory. Bzzzzzt. U think I could get the wee bastards to run quiet? To get my gears quiet, I warmed the motor, then switched off and immediately did the 'cold' static adjustment, not followed by the warm/running/dynamic adjustment. Sorted.

I hope that this all makes sense, Brother.

Gaz.
 

·
Welding. How hard can it be?
Joined
·
3,643 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Re: Wanna watch my engine/g'box rebuild?

Ahhhh. Fook. Oh well, I am sure someone can move the post to the Resource Section?

1. #1 (left side piston) at Top Dead Centre (pull the lead and spark plug, insert a clean pencil (nib 'up') into the hole and turn the motor over until the pencil reaches the top of it's travel)
2. Two alignment marks on the big crankscase gear parallel with the crankcase split (you can see one of these only with the crankcase 'together'. (pic 2)
3. There is a small slot/notch in the front balancer that needs to be aligned with the tab sticking out of the crankcase. (pic 3)
4. The alignment mark on the rear balancer should line up with the casting under the removable cover. (pic 1)

Make sure that all four items are perfectly aligned.

Good?
 

Attachments

·
Welding. How hard can it be?
Joined
·
3,643 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Re: Wanna watch my engine/g'box rebuild?

Hey, Scrappy. You will need to perform the Balancer Adjustment anyway, because the shaft has been out and replaced.

While you are in the mood, adjust the rear idle and balancer.

G.

edit: sorry, no sleep. You won't be able to see the crankcase gear timing marks with all of your engine covers in place, so do the TDC check and both counter balancer checks. If these are correct, you should be okay.

edit 2: Can you even see the front balancer with the sump only removed? If not, you might be serioulsy in the sh!t, Brother. I'll have another think about it. Hopefull you won't need to split the cases. :hmm:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Re: Wanna watch my engine/g'box rebuild?

Yes he can see the front balancer with the sump removed. And he can adjust it if it's not in the correct mark alignment. He only has to take the balancer shaft off, make the adjustment aligning marks, and put shaft again. Sump on and that's it for the front balancer (I learned this from cbrxxquad.... he has the copyright!!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,739 Posts
Also worth noting ... you can change the oil seal on the front balance adjuster without taking sump off ... just be bloody careful you don't pull the shaft out too far or else you will hear a nice basey clunk as the balancer gear and bearing washers hit the bottom of the sump :D
 

·
Welding. How hard can it be?
Joined
·
3,643 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Is that an "Ask me how I know" moment?

Interesting. I will be checking the front balancer soon as I suspect that I am a tooth out after the last rebuild.
 

·
Welding. How hard can it be?
Joined
·
3,643 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Sandro, gonna need more info, Brother. What type of noise? Rattle? Squeal? Does the noise go away or get worse when you rev the motor or pull the clutch in?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
878 Posts
Re: Wanna watch my engine/g'box rebuild?

First, thanks for posting the how-to for this. While I do have the manual, the write up here was a heck of a lot clearer.

My bike has the typical clutch "knock" but lately it was knocking louder and no longer stopped when the clutch lever was pulled in. I was also getting a lot of vibration in the bars, and I could tell things just weren't quite right. A lot of searching and reading finally brought me to this post.

Today my husband had the day off, so he agreed to spend some time out in the driveway with me and the Bird to see if this would help. With the side fairings off, the two adjuster on the right were easily accessible, and aside from the front adjuster needing a good soaking with penetrating fluid, they were easy to do.

So what's the trick for getting to the rear idle adjuster on the left? It's hiding behind a radiator hose and it was quite a battle to get a wrench past it and on the pinch bolt nut to loosen it. We finally resorted to looping some heavy twine around the radiator hose and using it to keep the hose pulled over to the side just far enough to get the wrench in. After all that, it didn't need any adjusting!

We did all three with the bike cold, warmed the bike up, shut it down, and checked and adjusted the two on the right again (they did need adjusting both times). Started fighting to get to the one on the left again, but gave up.

While it was a bit quieter after the cold adjustments, it was a lot quieter after the final adjustments with the bike warm, and neither one of us was feeling much in the way of handle bar vibration anymore. Hopefully this was all it needed!

Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Sorry to re-ignite this thread after ages, but I have a question and the above explanation was spot on for me, after initially following the manual and making it worse due to the bloody mis-print.
I have done mine twice since, first time it still sounded rattly after leaving it overnight and now I've left it a week and it sounds pretty whiney from cold, is this acceptable, or shoudl it be pretty quiet?
I have studied numerour clips on youtube of people's XXs and some of them have a lot of gear whine, some sound rough as hell, with very low idles.
When mine is warm you can just about detect the gear noise in amongst the natural engine noises, but while cold and warming up through the FI fast-idle cycle, it now sounds unusually whiney, not the metallic harsh whine you get when you make them tight with the engine running, but nonetheless a little bit VFR-ish.
Is there a need to slacken BOTH the idle gear (on LHS) and rear adjusters while you adjust one then the other? seeing as one runs off the other?
I have decided to sell the XX for something a bit smaller as funds are tight and I am not using it as I thought I would, namely 2-up and on long journeys, so I want to be sure she is tip-top before I pass on to someone else.
Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Just do exactly what Ghazzah wrote up in his awesome post.
I don't think it can be explained any clearer than that.
Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
OK, I re-read the post and took my time to do it again, though was much easier and faster than before with all the practice! The Bird now sounds perfect. I had a nice 100 mile ride on it yesterday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Does anyone have video where this procedure is done ? I would also appreciate if someone could post a picture of XX´s engine where is marked where all the balancers can be found
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top