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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys
Back again with more trouble
For some time i thought i had a charging problem, Ive replaced stator, reg rec and batt
so all the figures add up and the bird seems to be charging ok
I did a coolant flush recently as the bird seems to be running hot, due to this my fan runs a fair bit in slow moving traffic
it seems to come on at about 96 degrees and the temp gauage may go up to 107degrees then cools down and fan off about 95degrees
that all seems good, now on my road home the other day the fan was on quite a bit stop start traffic
when i got home the fan was still running, switche the bike off opened the garage went to start it
Nothing bat flat, has anyone had this prob where the fan would appear to be pulling the battery down
any info would be great
Want to love this bird but im really struggling here
 

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Spikey
The stock system can't keep the battery up at idle speeds. You have to get above 23 to 2400 rpm or it will eventually kill the battery. Sounds like all the stop and go pulled it down to far. Typically anything below 9 volts when cranking won't be enough to fire the bike. So if you get into this situation again hookup a charger when you get home.
Do you have a voltmeter in the system that you can monitor system voltage. Reason I ask is if your out on a ride and get caught like this again. Then you can check your voltage and if need be you can make a loop before you stop so your not caught flat like that again.
 

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Spikey
The stock system can't keep the battery up at idle speeds. You have to get above 23 to 2400 rpm or it will eventually kill the battery. Sounds like all the stop and go pulled it down to far. Typically anything below 9 volts when cranking won't be enough to fire the bike. So if you get into this situation again hookup a charger when you get home.
Do you have a voltmeter in the system that you can monitor system voltage. Reason I ask is if your out on a ride and get caught like this again. Then you can check your voltage and if need be you can make a loop before you stop so your not caught flat like that again.
Spikey,
Good advice here.
My daughter's Rebel 250 couldn't charge the high beams along with the auxiliary lights I put on it. She only rode it 6 miles to work and In the beginning prior to working on the carb she had to crank on it several times to get it started. I put a bigger more modern H4 headlight on it. Fixed the carb and then told her to go for a 20 mile country ride once in a while. That never happened so I bought an inexpensive smart charger and mounted it to the wall and put a switch on the plug. She comes home plugs in her bike and leans over and turns on the charger. When she leaves she goes into the garage sits on the bike. Leans over switches off the charger and unplugs the bike and takes off. No more battery problems.

Can you go in a lower gear and get your revs up to charge it?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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I've been aware of this issue for many years now Spikey and I take 'preventative' measures.

My garage drive is up a slope and pushing a Bird up there is a 2 man job. When I was commuting occasionally the fan would be on when I got home. I would leave the bike running whilst I opened the garage door, I would prefer the bike to get even hotter than the push. When in the garage I would switch off immediately to kill the fan. Depending on how long the fan had been running for the trickle charger would be plugged in overnight.
When I'm in hotter climes where the fan can be on for longer than 'normal' (thinking of when I have had to crawl around cities looking for a hotel) I often run the bike for a minute or so at an above idle speed when I stop just to add some more smoke to the battery. The voltage meter is my friend here.

The fan will drain the battery even with the latest reg recs if the bike is left at idle, knowing this is half the battle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi there
Thanks for the advice
Just what you describe Duck is what was happening
i was carrying a multi meter with me all the time and spare bat
but on normal commutes the voltatage when i left in the mmorning wa arround 12.8v when i reached work its was 13.1v
indicating charging system was fine, only when caught up in slow mo with fan on did i have an issue
thats the reason for the post i though i may have had a fault at the rad or the fan, cos when i did the flush the system did not refil with the amount of fluid it should have taken
i have actually order another rad, perhaps i should have order a battery mate instead,
many thanks guys put my mind at rest
 

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You can also lesson the load on the system by fitting led bulbs- changing just the taillights will gain you 4A approx when sitting with brake on. If you ride with headlamp, big gain there by doing dipped beam, guess about 3A, someone may know actual figure. So by those simple changes, you can gain over 6A
 

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A lithium iron phosphate battery may help as well. It will take a charge faster than a lead acid battery will. That way if you have discharged your battery but have some faster riding before you get to your destination it will charge more quickly than a lead battery.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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.... cos when i did the flush the system did not refil with the amount of fluid it should have taken ......
That is quite normal as well! The first time I flushed the system (many years ago now) I measured out the new coolant and got paranoid when I couldn't cram it all in! What did I do wrong? Yes I removed the air screw in the block, yes I had done it to the book ..... and I still had fluid left over.
On subsequent coolant changes I tried to measure the amount that came out but some always found its way onto the floor :rolleyes:
Over the years I have had the rad out, shaken the hoses, even had the water pump out ..... and still I have never got the correct amount in!

Now I am just very careful bleeding the system (centre stand first and then side stand) running the system up to 'fan on' and then allowing the system to fully cool .... and when I can't get any more fluid in I'm content :smilebig:
 

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Cheers all....... one tip just came to mind........ scary thought that........ I have a mind that still works.......... :evilaugh:...... I think.....

Oh, right, the thought...... wind your idle up to 1250rpms instead of the oem 1100. It won't hurt anything, and helps stop any FI stalls if your a bit slow on the clutch lever in traffic/tight turns. It still won't add enough charge to the battery but it's better than the really low standard idle. My BB fan comes on/off at the same temps as yours..... always has from new. The Honda 50/50 blue (bottle) coolant is good for 115C ("if my memory is still working" :rotfl: it wasn't.... i confused it with the Nulon non silicate longlife I was using before.... it was good to 132c :rolleyes:) .

I was also wondering where the extra coolant went every time I changed mine...... book said 3.something litres so I bought 4 bottles of 50/50 from the Honda shop, but I have an unused bottle on the shelf...... so it only takes 3 ltrs (+ maybe a small amount of demin water to top off). There's probably some part of the system that traps a small volume (like trying to drain all the engine oil out...... you never get the full amount quoted for a fresh engine build out (I think it is 4.5ltrs?, only the 3.9ltrs with filter quoted for a change - another good reason not to push oils to their absolute maximum life limit, because there's still 1/2 ltr of dead oil inside).

:thumb:
 

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Aussie Dave said:
instead of the oem 900
OEM here and as far as I know everywhere else is 1125. Any lower and you get the 'clutch knock' …. I tend to run 1150+.
 

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I'll take the higher rickover. Because I get the benefit of the added charging.
And the elephant in the room....... oil pressure........:eyebrows:

1250 is no bother for me....... my SDGT 1290 standard idle is 1450 and it sounds and feels great.
 

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A lithium iron phosphate battery may help as well. It will take a charge faster than a lead acid battery will. That way if you have discharged your battery but have some faster riding before you get to your destination it will charge more quickly than a lead battery.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I second this
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all the advice
i have changed the rad bike is running slightly cooler and fan does not come on until 100-102 degrees also fitted a bat optimiser
will change the headlight to LED soon as my headlight is on constant no turn off
but thanks again to all
 

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MY Bird stationary at idle temp creeps up 109 then i turn off and it dumps water out of overflow. Fan cant decrease temp at all
new coolent
new rad cap
flushed all of system
water pump
thermostat

Not sure what else to to other than a bigger fan then i worry about charging system
 

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Where abouts are you in the world twinsspark? Very hot climate? Have you thought of adding a manual switch for the fan?
 

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I have the manual fan switch mod and constantly spend 30 mins not moving much in Seattle traffic. I've never had a low charge problem. I do know that the previous owner installed a new RR a few years ago. Guess I will just count myself lucky :)
 

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I find it downright bizzare what happened with my Bird temperature. Before I installed the manual switch I had issued with fan switching on late, bike going in 115'C even if outside temp wasn't high...so few days ago I installed manual switch, used it few times, people on the forum advised me against it because it could drain the battery on low rpm's...

And now I ride around in these scorching heats, slow city traffic and all...and bike is cooler than ever. LOL.
 
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