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I don't understand.

New Bird owner slowly catching up on all these old threads about cooling, headlights, suspension etc etc, but what strikes me is that a lot of people try to make the bird run cooler by using engine ice (whatever that is) or by fitting extra fans etc. But, the cooler you try to make your bird run or any engine for that matter will just be a futile exercise. Surely if an engine is running cooler than it's designed to then the stat will stay closed until it's up to it's proper operating temperature.

I can understand you trying to keep things cool in traffic like I had to on my old GPZ9, but is the Bird know for boiling up when things get too hot?? If not, what's the problem??

When it comes to replacing my coolant i'll be using pink Vauxhall stuff cos I get it really cheap. It's worked on my GPZ, 2 CBR1000F's, and i'm sure it'll be fine with the Blade based Blackbird engine. I've also ran all 3 previous bikes on Vauxhall 10/40 semi-synthetic car oil with no issues. CBR number one was sold with 67,000 miles on the clock with no engine or clutch issues whatsoever (although I changed the cluth plates at 50kish) and Black Pig (cbr number 2) has currently close to 50,000 miles on it with no issues.

Does anyone else think the bike industry tries ripping us off with expensive fluids etc that are not really necessarry??
 

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I

Does anyone else think the bike industry tries ripping us off with expensive fluids etc that are not really necessarry?? In my humble opinion!

I fixed that for you, after all. You drive a Vauxal for Gods sake.


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I

Does anyone else think the bike industry tries ripping us off with expensive fluids etc that are not really necessarry?? In my humble opinion!

I fixed that for you, after all. You drive a Vauxal for Gods sake.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
There's nothing humble about my opinion thank you, it's just mine. And your humble opinion of me driving a vauxhall is wrong. On the subject of humble maybe you'd like some more pie? :D
 

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Hey SteveCardiff !

Are you from Cardiff then ?:D

Don't worry about the snipes about Vauxhall's as I drive a twenty five year old Rover 827 Vitesse :D its even got a manual gearbox.:DThey wouldn't know about them over there.

Your opinion on all this expensive glug and ice and whatever other stuff the manufacturers try to throw at us in whatever advertising they see fit, Including memberships of forums such as this where they can openly advertise for free in the form of advise and "I use this on mine" sort of stuff.

These people are everywhere lurking in the shadows ready to pounce with their wares at the first hint of doubt that you are doing something wrong.

I'm of the same opinion as you but don't mention it man down in the south as you may find your self hanging from a rope:D

I use cheapo modern fully sythetic oil and red five year antifreeze in everything I own including my 25 year old Rover Vitesse and my BB's

I lubricate everything with clean engine oil but have used the dipstick on occasions for the odd dab.

I must say that bumping into you has given my opinion a dose of :Dslick 50:D although I've been doing the same Dot4 brake, power steering top ups with red hydraulic transmission fluid at the cheapest for years with no problems.

If i use something I know its going to wear out at some point or another and how long it lasts generally depends on how and how much I use it.

It makes me laugh that Formula one or MotoGP engines need a spare or get rebuilt after every race although they use all the apparent best of everything available in the world.:D, some don't even last a race:D
 

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Don't tell Canadian Bird you're using ordinary every day run of the mill Dot 4, he'll have you believe you should be using Dot 4 Unicorn tears.
 

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Don't tell Canadian Bird you're using ordinary every day run of the mill Dot 4, he'll have you believe you should be using Dot 4 Unicorn tears.

SHHHHH ! I think he's still asleep or is he just waking up ? :D

Don't tell anyone but I did modify and use a Ford transit front brake hose for an oil pressure line although everybody knows that oil must not go on brake lines let alone in them:D

Its still going strong so perhaps its the cheap oil I've got :D Or did I put Dot4 in the sump by accident ?:huh:
 

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It's coming up time to change the coolant. The silicate and phosphate debate is largely moot because all types seem to be totally free of these additives nowdays.....but, there is two different types available, green and red. The red seems to be for new engines but the Bird still has steel bore liners. The bike is a 2004 model but the design is 10 years old.

Does anyone have any usefull input here?

It also says on a bottle that red and green types should not be mixed. The original fluid in the bike is green. I'm so confused.:idunno:
I was doing a bit of googling and I use penrite and when I checked their suitable coolant it’s blue I think?..
 

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Oh Duuhh........ it's an old old thread........ a bit like me :ROFLMAO:

Sorry @Gordo007, I just realized you may have been phishing for info....... originally I thought the whole thread was a current enquiry then deleted my 1st reply from embarrassment as I realized it was a discussion from many years ago......... but I was in a rush to get ready for a Dr's appointment...... so that's my excuse... ;)

If you are still interested, I recently did a coolant flush and change on my 05BB. Honda uses Blue type 2 in 1:1 mix (coolant and demineralized/rain water).

Some vehicles spec the Red OAT type - eg my KTM runs Motorex Red coolant, and others use Green or Blue coolant. As I understand it, and I'm not sure why, these are different formulas for different metals used in the cooling system (I think)....... and they should not be mixed - so a complete flush using 3Ltrs of boiling hot water (to hold open the thermostat) is needed to clean the system of all contamination. I flush several times (two drain bolts - water pump and cyl head) and also run the engine with the cap off and squeeze hoses to stir up as much old coolant/deposits as possible, then dump until it comes out sparkling clean. Take care to syphon the water out from the lower left of the rad (bike on side stand, remove hose from rad ) and also take the hose off the RHS upper mount so you can try to empty the thermo housing by raising the hose above the thermostat level. Even then, I think 200cc of water stays in there as I have never been able to get 3.2ltrs in....... only 3 ltrs.

So Honda spec is Blue type 2...... $15 a bottle in either HP brand premix or the black bottle in my pic...... or you can use other automotive coolants like Nulon Long Life green (it has a 4yr life and 123C max temp vs Honda type 2 Blue at 108C and 3yr life). I think Penrite has even better ratings. There will be others, but my BB always had green/blue formula.

(y)PS I got ripped off $20 a bottle as stock was in short supply back in Sept/Oct so I had to grab some from another bike shop, but just yesterday I saw plenty of stock on the shelf and it was $15 a bottle again.

Also note a good way to check your thermostat (they are not cheap) is to start your bike from cold and watch the temp gauge as it rises....... it gets to 85C then suddenly drops to 75C as the thermostat opens fully for the first time, then it steadily climbs to 101C where the fan cuts in and brings it back to 94C and cuts out. Do this before draining so you know there is nothing wrong with the thermostat (saves $200 and resealing the housing).......
 

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Oh Duuhh........ it's an old old thread........ a bit like me :ROFLMAO:

Sorry @Gordo007, I just realized you may have been phishing for info....... originally I thought the whole thread was a current enquiry then deleted my 1st reply from embarrassment as I realized it was a discussion from many years ago......... but I was in a rush to get ready for a Dr's appointment...... so that's my excuse... ;)

If you are still interested, I recently did a coolant flush and change on my 05BB. Honda uses Blue type 2 in 1:1 mix (coolant and demineralized/rain water).

Some vehicles spec the Red OAT type - eg my KTM runs Motorex Red coolant, and others use Green or Blue coolant. As I understand it, and I'm not sure why, these are different formulas for different metals used in the cooling system (I think)....... and they should not be mixed - so a complete flush using 3Ltrs of boiling hot water (to hold open the thermostat) is needed to clean the system of all contamination. I flush several times (two drain bolts - water pump and cyl head) and also run the engine with the cap off and squeeze hoses to stir up as much old coolant/deposits as possible, then dump until it comes out sparkling clean. Take care to syphon the water out from the lower left of the rad (bike on side stand, remove hose from rad ) and also take the hose off the RHS upper mount so you can try to empty the thermo housing by raising the hose above the thermostat level. Even then, I think 200cc of water stays in there as I have never been able to get 3.2ltrs in....... only 3 ltrs.

So Honda spec is Blue type 2...... $15 a bottle in either HP brand premix or the black bottle in my pic...... or you can use other automotive coolants like Nulon Long Life green (it has a 4yr life and 123C max temp vs Honda type 2 Blue at 108C and 3yr life). I think Penrite has even better ratings. There will be others, but my BB always had green/blue formula.

(y)PS I got ripped off $20 a bottle as stock was in short supply back in Sept/Oct so I had to grab some from another bike shop, but just yesterday I saw plenty of stock on the shelf and it was $15 a bottle again.

Also note a good way to check your thermostat (they are not cheap) is to start your bike from cold and watch the temp gauge as it rises....... it gets to 85C then suddenly drops to 75C as the thermostat opens fully for the first time, then it steadily climbs to 101C where the fan cuts in and brings it back to 94C and cuts out. Do this before draining so you know there is nothing wrong with the thermostat (saves $200 and resealing the housing).......
Thanks for that. I washed the old coolant out and refilled with green again. I’ve heard that you shouldn’t change so I followed the advice 👍
 

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Cheers mate,

The Honda shop parts manager advised that green and blue coolant will mix but that red could react with either blue or green and possibly block a tube in the rad.

Anyway, as you mention, it is safer/easier to stay with the same colour.......I had to change from green to blue as that was all that was on the shelves due to covid supply disruptions, and it seemed bike riders were doing their own maintenance while stuck at home :LOL:...... or was it similar to the great supermarket 'Toilet Paper' panick....... bike guys stocking up on coolant instead.....:unsure:.

Also, I think people saying not to change coolant colour has more to do with 'topping up' car reservoir's. Cars have much longer coolant service intervals than bikes - larger rads, less heat from lower revving engines etc etc - so topping up is far more routine vs smaller high performance bike rads/engines needing a flush and new coolant every 2-3yrs.....;).

(y)
 

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It's coming up time to change the coolant. The silicate and phosphate debate is largely moot because all types seem to be totally free of these additives nowdays.....but, there is two different types available, green and red. The red seems to be for new engines but the Bird still has steel bore liners. The bike is a 2004 model but the design is 10 years old.

Does anyone have any usefull input here?

It also says on a bottle that red and green types should not be mixed. The original fluid in the bike is green. I'm so confused.:idunno:
look at this:
 
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