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Coolant reservoir hose question

465 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  leighb
Hi all, first post n'all so I'll say 'hello' from the UK and thanks for the good advice I've read from the shadows.

I'm doing my first radiator change on my 05 FI bike after a stone trashed the previous one. And doing a small step each session has helped as i'm pretty much a noob at this spannering stuff.

I've gotten the new unit on - a copy unit from M&P - and filled only to notice some dribbles from the reservoir hose as it plugs into the radiator during warm-up. I was expecting trouble as the end was hard and crusty, clearly the OE hose, and on inspection it has a small tear in the end, presumably meaning a less than ideal fit over the rad nozzle.

So that leaves me a choice of replacing the entire siphon hose (as the manual calls it) or splicing a new section on midway.

Either way I need to know the hose size to buy - any ideas?

If replacing the entire length of it is the option, I need to be able to access the reservoir end of the hose - and that looks pretty darn inaccessible. Any thoughts which don't involve removing shocks and wheels? Can I get in from under the tank (never had tank up/off)

I've seen metal hose joining pieces online (in various sizes) but if I can do the whole hose I'd rather, instead of adding two more potential weak points to it.


Looking forward to your thoughts! Some of you clearly know your spanners.
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Don't overthink this. There is no pressure in the overflow pipe. Your local automotive store should have radiator overflow pipe for sale. Probably 5/16" or 8mm.
Cut and splice using a metal straight connector is easier as the tank is buried and hard to remove. Amazon may be easier to source this stuff.
Don't mix fuel and water hose as they are each designed for one specific job.
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Cheers Fizzy, I guess as long as I get a connector which can stand some heat - rather than one aimed at windscreen washer systems I suppose - splicing is a much easier option.

And yes, I'm probably overthinking as I'm somewhat nervous about spannering lol, and nervous about underthinking too I suppose :D
You don’t need to overthink,FI bikes are just fucking crazy atimes
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haha i hear that - I have new hose and some brass connector pieces coming so hopefully at the weekend I'll have her sorted.
Alright, just to wrap this up as it's a bit rude to join, ask then leave the thing hanging :)

She's all good! I was over thinking the pipe issue yes but a brass connector, some fuel piping and jubilee clips have done the job. I've had her in and out of London 2 days now - and it's 20+ degrees currently - and the new rad is a big success.

I'm seeing temps of 103 crawling through the London congestion esp at traffic lights, which is only a few degrees off what I saw with the old rad, but what's impressive is how quickly it cools down once rolling again, and cruising I'm looking at a good ten degrees less than before.

And no dribbles.

Gonna treat her to a full service at the local garage tho, I'm not gonna push my spannering luck too far...
Honestly, these bikes do not require much in the way of service. Unless your local garage is one of those unicorn places that are competent and actually care, then you will be better off doing it yourself.
Totally agree mate, I've done oil and filter changes myself but she needs the plugs doing I bet and I'm getting some grumbling noises from the clutch/gearbox while she warms up I want their opinion on. As it's my daily I feel happier that someone who knows bikes looks/listens once a year or so lol.

👍
Engine idling, in neutral, clutch lever out, clutch will "rumble". Pull in the clutch lever, rumble gone. This is normal, no action required.

Your 05 bike should have iridium plugs, which last for a very long time. Also, they cannot be adjusted and are expensive.

Only job that is tricky is bleeding the brakes (linked, not unlinked). If local shop is not familiar with this system (which is also found on other Hondas) they will likely mess it up.
Really? A built in grumble? Sounds like me. :cool:
Yep they all are a bit like that. With 216,000 on mine it does. As Fizzy states if you have the spanners and a decent amount of confidence. There isn't much in the way of maintenance you can't do yourself. As for the brake system. Download the factory manual from our resources section. With it you can properly bleed the brake and clutch systems.
One point to make on the brake system bleed. The manual will tell you to use a vacuum bleeder to drain the system. I have found this step to be a bit problematic. So I would suggest to not pull it dry. Instead watch the level of the master your working with. Keep it topped (only draw untill the resevior is low) and watch the fluid color at the point your draining. Once it's clean and clear. Stop using vacuum. Switch to old fashioned way. Squeeze or pump the lever 3 or 4 times with bleeder closed. Now be mindful here, have the master covered as the return port may not have a deflector in place. The fluid return port will shoot brake fluid like a jet if you quickly let the lever go or release it to quickly. Open the bleeder let the lever bottom. Release with the above caution mentioned. If the lever feels a little spongy repeat the manual step. It should go rock solid within 1 or 2 of these cycles. Then move on to the next port per the manual.
I've found with this method I can have the whole system bled in about 30 min including the clutch.
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216,000 !!! Hells bells I thought my 70k example was getting on a bit.

There is a bit of a grumble at all times, as you describe, but my concern is more that as it stands warming -particularly around the 70 degree mark - it thumps and bangs enough to dip the revs and shake the bike but only now and again. No pattern or regularity. A mate suggested - without being present - that it could be the clutch cable stretching slightly letting the clutch plates touch and that sounds plausible but I have no idea what that sounds.

Hence I'm keen to have an experience ear listen to it. The garage guys are sound and indeed are restoring a battered crashed old Blackbird currently.

Maybe next year, after another couple of successful spannering jobs, and you guys on support-desk, I'll be getting stuck in to all sorts :)
Really? A built in grumble? Sounds like me. :cool:
Maybe paying a shop invoice will perk you up? :unsure:
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There is a bit of a grumble at all times, as you describe, but my concern is more that as it stands warming -particularly around the 70 degree mark - it thumps and bangs enough to dip the revs and shake the bike but only now and again. No pattern or regularity. A mate suggested - without being present - that it could be the clutch cable stretching slightly letting the clutch plates touch and that sounds plausible but I have no idea what that sounds.

Hence I'm keen to have an experience ear listen to it. The garage guys are sound and indeed are restoring a battered crashed old Blackbird currently.

Maybe next year, after another couple of successful spannering jobs, and you guys on support-desk, I'll be getting stuck in to all sorts :)
You could take a video and post it up here. Got plenty of good ears here happy to give a listen.
Increase your idle speed by a few hundred rpm. That will likely mostly resolve the chatter in the gearbox. Knob to vary idle speed is left side under tank above gear change lever.
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