Clutch?

Nice thing about the clutch is you can access without draining oil. Just be sure it's on the sidestand.

While servicing the brakes over the winter did you do anything else? Bleed the clutch? Change the oil, change the levers?

I did change the oil (Used Honda oil and filter)
I did bleed the clutch, it feels good. The bike when idling went in and out of gear. Is it possible the clutch is not totally disengaging?

You need to get a new gasket for the clutch case cover and open her up, get a manual, you mite be surprised and only need new clutch springs, you need to down load the manual or get a Haynes book, its gives the lengths of your clutch springs, and the minimum they need to be to work, mine were done at 33,000 miles 04 uk bike.,,, I would suggest getting oem ones if you can as well.

By bleeding the clutch you may have introduced debris into the master cylinder allowing it to "pump up" and hold the clutch open. After a while it will bleed back down, only to repeat as soon as the clutch lever is used.

Dekker said:

I did change the oil (Used Honda oil and filter)
I did bleed the clutch, it feels good. The bike when idling went in and out of gear. Is it possible the clutch is not totally disengaging?

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It's possible how full is the master resistor. If it's to full it can hydroloc.
Another possibility is the return port might be blocked. Actuate the lever a few times. With the lever released take a rag cover the bleed port on the slave and Crack it open. If fluid squirts out and the master isn't over full then the ports probably blocked.
Also when was the last time the whole system was at least flushed. If it hasn't been then you may have mud (combination of brake fluid water). If so this will create the symptoms your seeing. I actually had this happen on a customers goldwing. The system had been flushed but the rear brake would still lock up gradually as he rode the bike. What was happening was as he road the mud would expand and gradually apply the brakes.
So before you Crack open the cover check for the above conditions.

Thanks for the replies. The bike only has 19008 miles on it. It was stored in a barn for about 12+ years when I got it out last year to bring it back to riding condition. I have the Haynes service manual.
I will check the master cylinder for level and return port, if good I will open her up and check springs.

"I will check the master cylinder for level and return port, if good I will open her up and check springs."
I also suspect something other than wear. Don't just check springs,check the plates.But my first suspect is clutch not fully releasing.
I would pull the slave cylinder off,pull the lever,which will push out the piston,then push it back in by hand.If that seems normal, I'd bleed it again.
Clutches wear slowly and can still be ridden under normal load when the plates are down to minimum allowed thickness,so the way it behaved for you tells me it shouldn't be worn, however if this was the first ride and it wasn't ridden last year after 12 yrs in storage, I would suspect the plates have dried out and need to be soaked in oil.

My I instinct is it's air in the system. As the BB gets hotter the clutch is being 'pulled' on as the air expands with heat.

Partsguy said:

"I will check the master cylinder for level and return port, if good I will open her up and check springs."
I also suspect something other than wear. Don't just check springs,check the plates.But my first suspect is clutch not fully releasing.
I would pull the slave cylinder off,pull the lever,which will push out the piston,then push it back in by hand.If that seems normal, I'd bleed it again.
Clutches wear slowly and can still be ridden under normal load when the plates are down to minimum allowed thickness,so the way it behaved for you tells me it shouldn't be worn, however if this was the first ride and it wasn't ridden last year after 12 yrs in storage, I would suspect the plates have dried out and need to be soaked in oil.

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Second the dry plates