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leigh, agreed, the wiring diagram has a mistake or 2.

bl/br wire that originates at fuse B looks to power cluster and dash indicator lights. Possible break in this wire/conductor in the dash itself as the dash indicator lights per OP are working.
 

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Ok maybe there is a member nearby that could swap dashes just to verify the gauges are or are not the issue. It's 6 screws for the windscreen and the plug to check. Anyone out there could help out?
 

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The schematic shows that Bl/Br wire splits to two pins in the connector. Given there are errors in the Pod schematic maybe one pin drives the lights and the other drives the gauges? So it could still just be a bad power pin connection?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ok I checked the voltage to the green/black wire (ground) to a black/brown wire (power) on the 16 pin plug that plugs into the back of the cluster. It reads 12.52 volts. There's two black/browns in the pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Jumper wire from the green/black wire in the plug to the frame ground by the tank didn't do anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The previous owner had a power commander 3 that seemed to have failed and a speedo healer hooked up. I removed both in order for the bike to be able to start.
Could this be an ECU issue? Do I need to reset it back to stock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I went thru the book and checked the tachometer, and it came out to something like 8 volts while the bike is running. Book says to replace the ecm if thats the case. Could the ecm be causing the other issue?

I didn't have a peak voltage adapter connected like the book said though
 

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So it looks like you are getting correct voltage into the gauge pod.

I very much doubt it is the ECU. The display should still show something when powered on regardless of what input signal they do or dont receive from ECU. And fuel gauge doesn't have any ECU interaction at all. This is looking much more like a problem on the guage circuit board itself. I think the 17+ volts you were seeing has burned out a component on that board.
 

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Hellkite - could be your lucky day. This was just posted and talks about a company in USA that repairs gauges: Gauge cluster repair for faded LCD gauges
They might be able to help you. You might want to contact the person who posted that and get his connector pinout diagram to give them or whoever else you find to do the fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
They didn't respond to me - I found a company in Lancaster PA that will fix it. They're charging 150 plus return shipping with a 1 week turn around. Much better than a new cluster. Place was called Powls Speedometer & Automotive.
 

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I just posted the 2002 Blackbird 16 pin gauge cluster electrical schematic on my thread in case anyone is interested. Sorry, not so good with forums and didn't know I could post it or I would have earlier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Ok I got a call from the gauge shop. They said that it's completely done for - that a power surge fried almost every capacitor on it as well as the main processor (which makes sense as the faulty R/R was pushing 18.5 volts to it for god knows how long). They said they could get me a new one, but it'd be 1500 USD and about another month wait. Obviously not doing that, so they are sending it back.

What are my options as far as alternate clusters? Has anyone here fit a different style gauge cluster to an 01 and retained all functionality? I'm not really interested in spending 700-1k on a used cluster. I'd say i'm at a sub 500 number at this point.

This sucks :-/
 

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Best bet is to look for a used one. Maybe accident damaged where you could switch over your good case. Call all the breakers and scour all online resources.
Some have done the switch from analog to digital dash using some electrical wizardry, so I presume the reverse can be done.

Here is one is the UK. Not 100% sure it is compatible as it contains HISS indicator.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164536523470?hash=item264f241ace:g:yM0AAOSwAptgCEYi
 

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Hell
When you said 17.5 that's what made me cringe. Sorry it took out the POD. But better than the gixxer I worked here. That one took out the dash ECM and taillight.
 
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Hell
When you said 17.5 that's what made me cringe. Sorry it took out the POD. But better than the gixxer I worked here. That one took out the dash ECM and taillight.
Yeah. Thankfully the bike still runs. Going to try and run down a used one or maybe try one of the Koso universal ones
 

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Bummer. There are folks who have used different (non oem) gauges but usually with a street racer conversion. I think it would look
very strange to install different guages and retain the fairing. Second hand will be your best bet. Use a GPS or phone as a speedometer in the meantime and take care not to run out of fuel!
 
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