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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
*Relocated from different thread*

Fuel Injection ( EFI ) Fault Diagnosis and Checking​


If the fuel injection system ( FI ) warning light on the instrument cluster illuminates when the motorcycle is running, a fault has occurred in the fuel injection/ignition system. The engine control module ( ECM ) will store the relevant fault code in its memory and this code can be read as follows using the self-diagnostic mode of the ECM. While the engine is running and the motorcycle is being used, the FI light will come on and stay on. When the motorcycle is on its side stand and the is running below 5000 revs the FI light will flash, the pattern of the flashes indicating the code for the fault the ECM has identified.

If the engine can be started, place the motorcycle on its side stand and then start the engine and allow it to idle. Whilst the engine is idling, observe the FI warning light on the instrument cluster.

If the engine cannot be started, or to check for any stored fault codes even though the FI light is not illuminated, remove the seat to gain access to the fuel injectionsystem service check wiring connector, which is a white 3-pin ( 2 wire ) single sided connector inside the rubber boot close to the tail light.
Ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the outer terminals of the service check connector with an auxiliary piece of wire.
With the terminals connected make sure the kill switch is in the run position then turn the ignition ON and observe the FI warning light.
If there are no stored codes the FI light will come on and stay on.
If there are stored fault codes, the FI light will flash.

The fuel injection system warning light uses long ( 1.3 second ) and short ( .5 second ) flashes to give out the fault code. A long flash is used to indicate the first digit of a double digit fault code ( i.e. 10 or above ). If a single digit fault code is being displayed ( i.e. 1 to 9 ) there will be a number of short flashes equivalent to the code being displayed.
For example, two long flashes followed by five short flashes indicate the fault code number twenty five. If there is more than one fault code, there will be a gap before the other codes are revealed ( the codes will be revealed in order , starting with the lowest and ending with the highest ). Once all the code(s) have been revealed, the ECM will continuously run through the code(s) stored in its memory, revealing each one in turn with a short gap between them.

Once the fault has been identified and corrected, it will be necessary to reset the system by removing the fault code from the ECM memory. To do this, ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the terminals of the service check connector as before.
Turn the ignition ON then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector.
When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be reconnected.
The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased. However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated.
Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire.
Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once ) then replace the seat. :)


FAULT CODE



SYMPTOM



POSSIBLE CAUSE

1
Engine runs normally
Faulty MAP sensor or wiring
2
Engine runs normally
Faulty MAP sensor / vacuum hose
7
Engine difficult to start at low temp.
Faulty coolant temp. sensor or wiring
8
Poor throttle response
Faulty throttle position sensor or wiring
9
Engine runs normally
Faulty intake air temp. sensor or wiring
10 ( see note 1)
Engine runs poor at high altitude
Faulty atmospheric pressure sensor
11
engine operates normally
Faulty speed sensor or wiring
12
Engine does not start
Faulty no. 1 fuel injector
13
Engine does not start
Faulty no. 2 fuel injector
14
Engine does not start
Faulty no. 3 fuel injector
15
Engine does not start
Faulty no. 4 fuel injector
18
Engine does not start
Faulty cam pulse gen.r or wiring
19
Engine does not start
Faulty ignition pulse gen. or wiring
20
engine operates normally
Faulty EPROM in ECM
25
engine operates normally
Faulty knock sensor or wiring



The following codes are only applicable to models with catalytic converter.

21
engine operates normally
faulty oxygen sensor
23
engine operates normally
Faulty oxygen sensor heat element


Note 1.
code 10 is only on the 1999 to 2000 X and Y models
 

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1999 blackbird. I have the problem with the F1 lights comes on whiling riding. i rewired a new voltage regulator n a wire to the ecm. thats been bout 2 months now. i check all fuse n tighten all wires. could it be that ecm is not stable or do i need to soldier all them wires? I check the wires n it look like it burns the tape a lil bit.. it runs fine n puts out very well.. but light is holdin me up on a road trip. Wat can i do? could it be that ecm is not stable or do i need to soldier all them wires?
 

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A Blue Blackbird...
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liljap1 - does the FI light suddenly appear or does it gradually come on over a period of time...

The reason I ask is that my FI light gradually comes on over a period of about 30 minutes. There is NO ECU fault recorded. It appears to be speed/engine rev related as at idle it does not illuminate. At increasing speeds/revs it glows brighter - after 30-60 minutes and with high beam (night riding) it glows its brightest.

It is seriously doing my head in now - I'm taking her off the road at the end of the month to resolve the problems. I feel it may be down to the battery - so this is my first step. I have done the Connector fix - which made no difference. I removed the tank and checked all sensors for dodgy connectors - there were some dodgy ones and on my initial ride the FI light did not illuminate at all after 2 hours! Thought it was cured but then the following ride saw a recurrence! :mad:

Too many problems (FI related) with this bike by too many people, it cant be a coincidence - I think its time Honda gave an input!

Steve
 

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my FI light has been on for years, and Ive taken it on road trips and everything... it only comes on after riding it for 20 min. not sure what the problem is but the bike runs great and has for years
 

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A Blue Blackbird...
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196 Posts
Just a thought - has anyone done the check while the FI Light is actually on?

PRIZBOS - it seems our problems are related, any chance we can share what we've respectively done to try to cure the problem?

Steve
 

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Resident Eh?hole.
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Hi guys...does anyone know how to reset the ecm to factory setting?...thanks in advance
Are you asking how to clear fault codes? I believe you need to disconnect the battery to do that, but someone else may say otherwise.
 

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Cut from post 1 of this thread...

Once the fault has been identified and corrected, it will be necessary to reset the system by removing the fault code from the ECM memory. To do this, ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the terminals of the service check connector as before.Turn the ignition ON then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector.
When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be reconnected.
The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased. However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated.
Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire.
Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once ) then replace the seat
 

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A Blue Blackbird...
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196 Posts
Cured FI light problem...


After many many hours of searching and researching - I managed to find the problem - the Green Earth Wire. The connector problem is only the beginning unfortunately :hmm: I recently had a vacation and decided to resolve the problem once and for all.
I checked resistance from Headlight to Rectifier - 2 Ohms. :nono: way too high... I checked condition of wire by stripping back insulating shroud. The copper wire was black with corrosion probably caused by heat and/or moisture. I doubt moisture as the wire was the same across its entire length. I totally stripped down the loom from Rectifier to Headlight and replaced it, introducing more Earth Points and slightly heavier gauge wire.
Its the main return to earth from Headlight, Sidelight, Front Indicators, Dash Lights (including FI Light) Horn, Knock Sensor... all of which I was experiencing problems with. Following the three days it took me to replace the bike seems totally transformed now but it took many hours of time and patience.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news - but thats my brief story!

This was originally pointed out to me by another member of this site - I poo poo'd it thinking it wasnt valid, once I checked resistance it became clear that this may indeed be the problem - I stand corrected and offer an apology to the said member!

Steve
 

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A Blue Blackbird...
Joined
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196 Posts
Cured FI light problem...


After many many hours of searching and researching - I managed to find the problem - the Green Earth Wire. The connector problem is only the beginning unfortunately :hmm: I recently had a vacation and decided to resolve the problem once and for all.
I checked resistance from Headlight to Rectifier - 2 Ohms. :nono: way too high... I checked condition of wire by stripping back insulating shroud. The copper wire was black with corrosion probably caused by heat and/or moisture. I doubt moisture as the wire was the same across its entire length. I totally stripped down the loom from Rectifier to Headlight and replaced it, introducing more Earth Points and slightly heavier gauge wire.
Its the main return to earth from Headlight, Sidelight, Front Indicators, Dash Lights (including FI Light) Horn, Knock Sensor... all of which I was experiencing problems with. Following the three days it took me to replace the bike seems totally transformed now but it took many hours of time and patience.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news - but thats my brief story!

This was originally pointed out to me by another member of this site - I poo poo'd it thinking it wasnt valid, once I checked resistance it became clear that this may indeed be the problem - I stand corrected and offer an apology to the said member!

Steve
Just to add to this - my problem returned not long since after I replaced the offending wiring.

I've been riding for the duration of the original post with the FI light occasionally coming on, sometimes glowing, sometimes not coming on at all.
Then on a ride out two weeks ago - my bike wouldn't start... battery, but hang on its a new one :confused::confused:, the problems all seem temperature related - on the colder days, the FI light doesn't illuminate...

Anyway - replaced the Regulator/Rectifier with an uprated one from Jaws - next day delivery too (awesome service - thanks mate! :)) Seems to have cured problem so far, trickle charged the battery for a while... seems to have totally cured the problem!! So far so good...

Steve
 

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A Blue Blackbird...
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Problem may have finally been resolved -

All problems so far have been cured logically with finance in mind - therefore I am now to the point where I have pretty much replaced and repaired much of faults so far - up until t'other week, things were going swimmingly then on a Ride Out to Bolton - after a long ride some 70 miles the bike wouldn't start - flat battery! ANyway - bumped it, got it going - lots a traffic on way back saw Fan kick in and temperatures rise. Didn't want to stop bike as wouldn't restart - Dashboard went dead - no power to run it I assume, on high revs the Dash would kick in - etc.

Battery has been on charge for recommended time - checked voltages over one week period, lost 0.25V over the week, from 13.5 to 13.25V (temperature was dropping too) which I didn't think was bad at all.

I've almost certainly traced it back to the only thing left it could possibly be - the Stator/Generator - so next payday I'll be buying one of these... hopefully that should cure the problem once and for all. So Mr Jaws - I'll be needing one soon thank you Blackbird 2000 PFI... LOL!!! Finally I may have a resolution to this 2 year old problem
:rolleyes:

Steve

 

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A Blue Blackbird...
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Needed to post this to all related forum topics as it may have relevance in one or more.

Following a few years of intermittent problems, replacing various parts and experiencing a number of problems I have finally cured the problem once and for all.

Problems experienced:
FI Light illuminating when warm/hot. Goes out when above 5000 rpm?
Headlight (HID) going out when switch to full beam.
Dash problems - intermittent failure.
No problem with starting/running...

Anyway - after a number of "fix's" such as:
Checking most connectors - and removing a few.
Replacing most of the Earth Wiring from battery to front. (Headlights, indicators etc) Original copper wire was darkened - likely due to high current.
Replacing Regulator/Rectifier
Replacing Battery

Some of the changes seemed to make a difference but it seemed that the temperature on the day of repair may have been more of a factor...

I replaced the Stator... problems have ALL gone - and I mean ALL GONE!!

The original Stator had darkened crud in one particular area - indicating a winding failure.

ANyway - jobs done... now all I have to do is wait 3-5 months for the weather to pick up before venturing out...
 

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I've got my bird in under dealer warranty to resolve an FI light problem. The bike is running perfectly but, completely randomly, the FI light sometimes stays on, other times goes out. I can make it stay on by washing the bike (not with a pressure washer, just sponge and water), then after a few runs it stays off again, only to, occasionally, stay on. It does not give a fault code when running, or store a fault code and the guide for identifying faults says that this is a short somewhere or a fault in the ECM. Since the ECM is tucked away safe and dry, I guess it is more likely to be a short somewhere else. I'll post the solution when my dealer has resolved it.
 

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Mine comes on when i wash the bike, every time. No fault code appears and I can start the bike no problems, but it was a bit unnerving when it first started happening and I wasn't sure why. When the bike dries out, it goes off. The original owner, who is a mate of mine, said it did the same when he had it, so its no biggie.
 

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Got my bike back, with a report that there was an intermittent short between the CDI and the service connector. To cure this the technician fitted a wire outside the loom, rather than disturb the loom. This seems to have fixed the problem. Maybe this will help anyone who has experienced a similar problem.
 

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Mine comes on when i wash the bike, every time. No fault code appears and I can start the bike no problems, but it was a bit unnerving when it first started happening and I wasn't sure why. When the bike dries out, it goes off. The original owner, who is a mate of mine, said it did the same when he had it, so its no biggie.
How do you wash it ?

With a pressure washer ?

I reckon water is getting into the test connector under the back of the seat when you blast it with water:smilebig:

Mine doesnt get washed that often as bug squash and dust is all I pick up on the dry days
 

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Would an FI fault stop the rev counter from working? .. Got a friends 2001 BB in the shed thats been off the road for quiet a while, R/R was fubar'd so replaced that ... have checked wiring and it measures were it should so we replaced the rev counter with a new one but it still don't work. Does the speed sensor play any part in the rev counter operation?
 
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