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Discussion Starter #1
Ok gents heads up for folks running a meter on what to look for on charging systems issues. This isn't a one fits all but i'm adding it here with hopes that others will add in symptoms for folks to build on.

Here were the indications.
1. Volt Meter started showing 14.1 to 14.2 to 14.3 when it typically ran 14.4 to 14.5
2. Key on voltage while system cycled (FI) 11 to 11.5 when it typically ran 12.3 to 12.4
3. Starter button pressed 8 to 9.5 when it typically ran 11.0 to 12
So took the battery to Autozone and had them load test it. Heads up the guy said they shouldn't test bike batteries with the tester. Anyway test showed battery voltage at 12.84 (what I expected as it was in the battery tender for the night) but it failed load test. So it isn't complete toast yet but it's going away
 

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What reason did he give for not testing the battery with a load tester?
 

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My battery Yuasa YTZ14S have 5 years old, It's time to change or not ?

My system charge 14.3V at 4000 RPM (low beam on 65W) I have OEM R/R five years to.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What reason did he give for not testing the battery with a load tester?
Shewie he did load test it
He just made the comment that they weren't supposed to test batteries that small

Binos
I would run it still just keep an eye on it if you don't have an onboard meter hooked up pay attention to the cranking speed sound. If it sounds like it's labouring (not tunrning over as fast) a little more then you should get it load tested. I would highly recommend updating to a Shingden MOSFET R/R. it's a marked improvement to the stock R/R. Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier either of the FH020AA kits would be a good choice in my opinion.
 

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Thanks for info beestoys,

I install a new R/R one month past from Rick's motorsport, model Mosfet model ( 10-129H) for a 1000RR i bought via a friend but new never use his change bike before receive his R/R.

But i burn my fuse holder because isn't a maxi fuse, but this R/R give me 14.9V @4000RPM ! I will reinstall when i will bought a maxifuse holder, it's rare in autopart's...

I will put a new battrey before my vacation trip in maritimes (5000km) in préventive...

Sorry for my bad english...
 

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Shewie he did load test it
He just made the comment that they weren't supposed to test batteries that small

Binos
I would run it still just keep an eye on it if you don't have an onboard meter hooked up pay attention to the cranking speed sound. If it sounds like it's labouring (not tunrning over as fast) a little more then you should get it load tested. I would highly recommend updating to a Shingden MOSFET R/R. it's a marked improvement to the stock R/R. Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier either of the FH020AA kits would be a good choice in my opinion.
Can you provide one single link to the one for the blackbird please. No videos, etc, etc, Just the one for the Bird.
 

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Thanks :)


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Canadian if your asking Binos about the R/R yes as he has said and actually the way Jack recommends to hook it up. Straight to the battery it seems he has found in some of the installations from customers that the harness was also a part of the problem. So the recommended install is straight to the battery. I listed the 2 kits for Binos depending on what your isntall skills are. One kit is pretty much plug and play the other requires some wiring skills. If you have any questions give jack a call he is very personable and helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for info beestoys,

I install a new R/R one month past from Rick's motorsport, model Mosfet model ( 10-129H) for a 1000RR i bought via a friend but new never use his change bike before receive his R/R.

But i burn my fuse holder because isn't a maxi fuse, but this R/R give me 14.9V @4000RPM ! I will reinstall when i will bought a maxifuse holder, it's rare in autopart's...

I will put a new battrey before my vacation trip in maritimes (5000km) in préventive...

Sorry for my bad english...
Binos sounds like your doing everything right Ricks stuff has been very good to me. The R/R your talking about should do the same thing so yes once youy get the fuse holder then drop it in and you should be set up pretty good. The new Shaorai battery is working great. I'll start a new thread with pics and findings on it for folks as well.
 

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My battery Yuasa YTZ14S have 5 years old, It's time to change or not ?

My system charge 14.3V at 4000 RPM (low beam on 65W) I have OEM R/R five years to.
Binos get rid of it,use it for target practice or sell it to a HD rider( only kidding)it's
done it's job,get yourself a volt gauge,mine sits about 14.5 @ 2.5 rpm to 3 rpm
As Beestoys said a good battery cranks hard and fast,listen to the crank speed which gives a good indication.
Rode home from work tonight, temp was 2 degrees Celsius and probably 0 when i arrived home 23Ks later no heated grips just RST Top and Bottom
but I'm tough i ride a pretty Blue 1
Anyway what i was about to say before i interupted myself,you can hear the battery work hard in the cold when crancking over.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am the type of person that likes to stretch my funds as far as possible that is why I suggested keeping it in there until it shows signs of trouble. But as Bullit points out 5 years is a bit of time if you don't run a tender or don't ride everyday. If your fixing to make a long trip I would probably replace it. You don't want to be in the middle of a long relaxed vacation ride to have it spoiled by down transportation.

Yep extreme cold or heat will be a batteries death. Cold cranking indicator is easier to catch than hot crank as the engine is looser just form ambient heat and easier to crank.

Keep the inputs coming folks this is waht i was hoping for real world experinces someone can use to compare and save them a breakdown in the wrong place.
 

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Recently, one green of 2 ground R/R wire had no contact/coorrosion in multi connector in harness give me just 14V, repaired give 14.3V with my OEM R/R.

Bad contact in this multi ground connector in main harness, test 14V at 3000.
IMG_0570.JPG

cut all wires and solder all for a good future contact on all wires, after solder test 14.3V @3000
IMG_0572.JPG

Double insulation shrink tube, and re tape/assembly main harness.
IMG_0567.JPG

It's a wakeness in M.Honda harness and big source of multi électric fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Binos its going south get it out before the trip. Mine did the same thing I'll bet if you load test it it will fail.
 

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Yes I change batt. before trip for sure, a Yuasa YTZ14S is 160.95 at Pete Superbike.

And reinstall my Rick's R/R with a big maxi fuse holder, and keep my OEM in back up on bike, just connect if the R/R Rick's fail in case... I'm parano électrical... Lolll

My Stator have good performance...

PS: When start my bike, test is above 10V. (load test).
 

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just do it
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Yes I change batt. before trip for sure, a Yuasa YTZ14S is 160.95 at Pete Superbike.

And reinstall my Rick's R/R with a big maxi fuse holder, and keep my OEM in back up on bike, just connect if the R/R Rick's fail in case... I'm parano électrical... Lolll

My Stator have good performance...

PS: When start my bike, test is above 10V. (load test).
It's easy to become paranoid with all the negative info on R/Rs and batteries.
I'm sure you will be trouble free for a long time.
 

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Maintenance log entry, topic related:

Aug. 5 2011, 69193km’s. While returning from London Ont. Via Strathroy, Watford, Wyoming on Confed line..the stator and or reg/rec failed on the Blackbird. First the speedo began jumping around then died,..then the tach just out and out died (no jumping around) then the motor started to buck and fart and finally died just as we rolled into Watford at the intersection of Main and Confederation line. Pushed the bike into the financial buildings parking lot on the south west side of the road and then road bitch on Gary’s 1200 Montauk back to Sarina to get the recovery rig rolling. The battery still holds a charge when bumped via the battery tender, but there is no voltage indicated on the Fluke meter when the engine is running to indicated that the bikes system is sending charge to the battery. Indicated voltage at the battery during engine run above 5000 rpm’s is only 11.65 volts…which is the same voltage as when the engine is off. New stator, reg/rec and alt cover gasket are on order as of Aug, 8 2011. Plan is to also install a new Deka AGM battery from TSC. Update: Aug. 15[SUP]th[/SUP]..the Deka battery is in the parts bin from TSC, a Deka AGM ETX-12 which cost $126.00 out the door.

T.
 

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I install a new battery Yuasa YTZ14S

And a new Rick's R/R Mosfet. My Stator give good read, he have 5 years and is a slighly boosted.

Idle 14,5V with lowbeam on

3000 RPM 14.8V

At lowbeam (monted with relay and H7 rally osram 65W) 13.7V at 4000RPM , i have 100% power of my bulb !

New Rick's Mosfet (note OEM plug with tape for no short)
IMG_0593.JPG

Maxi fuse holder 30A
IMG_0594.JPG

OEM R/R in back up,
IMG_0595.JPG

Connectors ready for connect back up R/R.
IMG_0599.JPG

I"m parano with charge system, reason for a backup R/R on bike. :D
 
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