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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

New to the forum ,only had my bird for 5 weeks, got it to commute on, doing 120 miles per day mostly motorways. It’s been great.
last week however just about home and noticed the indicators were weak on the dash. Got home and it wouldn’t fire, thought I might have left the heated grips on or had them on high and zapped power from the battery. Anyway put it on charge , optimate showed the battery was good and went to work next day. This time the indicators stopped working, started running lumpy and at work just packed up. ( was only working 25 miles away that day)

charged battery to get home. Now home and trying to fathom the issue.
battery charged at rest showing 12.8v start her up and falls to 11.9v doesn’t raise when revs increase.

now fixing bikes is new to me, my reading is telling me that the stator is at fault? No AC charge? AC charge not going up so regulator not needed to kick in?
what other considerations should I be looking at?

any help gratefully received

cheers

swainy
 

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Never overlook the simple stuff. How old is the battery? (The battery should always be your first suspect before you worry about the charging system.) 12.8v at rest can be deceptive; have it load tested for a more accurate assessment of its current state of health.
 

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But sure how old battery is but once at idle there is a drop to 11.9. When revs increased to 2k then up to 4K no change. Shouldn’t the volts increase?

would a pooped battery still be my first port of call?
 

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Pull up the link about 1/2 way down this page. There are 2 links one for fault finding and one for a diode check that works for standard bridge rectifier regulators. The stock Regulator Rectifier R/R is what Honda uses form the factory.
Here's a simple home load test you can do on the battery. with it fully charged put a meter on the Positive and Negative terminals. While the bike is rolling over watch the meter. It MUST NOT drop below 9.5 vdc. If it does the battery is toast you'll need to replace it to get good voltage readings for the rest of the testing.

 

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Agree with the battery check. If ok, check 3 pin connector(s) from stator to regulator. You don't say model year, as location and number of these changes. Anyway, they tend to melt at the first sign of trouble.

Low battery voltage is certainly one sign of a bad stator, which can be tested. Disconnect the 3 pin connector from above, start engine and check voltage ALL 3 ways from the 3 pins coming from the stator. Should be about 60V @ 5000rpm. Actual voltage delivered less important than all 3 being the same. Set multimeter to AC voltage. Use the probes into the backside of the connector, not the front, to avoid shorting anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It’s an 06 , thanks for your help guys. On holiday next week so my Saturday job i fairings off and get busy!
front of the connector where they push together?

cheers
 

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Yes should be accessible from the rear cowl. That's the only one you would have to pull.
 

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One point to add regarding the load test........ best to leave the battery off the charger for 12 hrs before doing the 'cold cranking' load test. As you crank the motor over it should register above 9.5v if the battery is ok, otherwise the battery is kaput and with continued riding it will take out the reg/rect. You are correct in that once the motor fires, it should be pumping 14v into the system at fast idle revs, dropping to 13v at 1200rpm idle.

It does sound like the alternator has fritzed....(and maybe the reg/rect is hurt). If so, there is a mob in Geelong called 'small coil rewinds' that does quality rewinding with slightly heavier gauge wire - I have had one of theirs on my 05BB ever since the original coil failed at 71k kms (now at 129k kms). The forum has recommendations on new reg/rects - mine has never failed so I 'know noth-ink' ;)......

Putting a battery on a charger before testing only lets an old battery tell lies to the voltmeter (hence the 12 hr off charger requirement for an accurate reading). There are some well written articles in the resources section that explain how and why things happen.

I almost never use a battery charger... if riding regularly there should be no need to use a charger....... last few years I have not been able to ride so in-between monthly maintenance starts and run-ups to operating temps I have had to charge my battery, but they clap out faster than when riding every day. I am now back into it and my CTEK charger sits on the shelf again.......

I usually get 2yrs from a $100 battery....... I recommend an Aussie 'SSB' V spec battery for their higher cranking power and value for money (I recently paid just $94 for a new one from my local bike shop that I try to support, but they are available on line too)....

PS Sorry, just realized you are on the north side of the rock...... so SSB brand probably isn't available over there.
 

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