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i was surprised there was no locking pins on the axel nut or on the front sprocket drive nut




i guess the chain should never get tight if u r bouncing up n down hard on the bike
Yeah mate there is not any sort of rotating forces that should cause a sufficiently tensioned axle nut to work loose. The rotating forces on the counter shaft would actually cause the sprocket retaining bolt to remain tight hence why it only needs to be nipped up. The loctite really only provides peace of mind.Paul:).
 

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I changed my chain when i re geared. I learned a LOT of things.

1) You can remove the old chain with a bolt cutter too
2) You can remove the old chain with a couple good dremel thin fiber cutting discs
3) Do NOT save a couple dollars and buy the crappy non hardened MOTION PRO piece of crap that every shop sells becasue it is cheap.
4) Find the best price online and buy an RK tool. Hardened steel.
5) I like the DID VM2 X ring chain in 530 of course. Good stuff.
6) Never substitute a retainer clip master link. Use the enclosed "riveted" type. Do NOT peen these over or use a make shift tool like i tried. Use a proper RK tool.
7) When sliding the side plate on the master link dont be a dink like me and forget to fully grease and install the x rings FIRST that are supposed to go there.
8) The side plate of a riveted master link will not simply drop in place. This is normal. I thought something was wrong. The plate needs to be PRESSED in place. And it needs to be pressed just right. Not too tight on the rubber x rings and not too loose.
9)We tried measuring the side plates to gauge this but ended up bending the chain back and forth to judge whether of not the side plate was pressed on tight enough. That method was subjective but accurate.

I found a DUPONT product that is supposed to be the absolute shiz for chain lube. Do NOT over lube your chain. This is very common and ends up making things wear out FASTER as too much lube COLLECTS sand and grit that prematurely wears a chain. Makes a God awful MESS too.

Never clean an Oring chain in a solvent. Best way is to spray a RAG with WD 40. The WD 40 or even Kerosene is used ONLY as a cleaner. Never SPRAY thin WD 40 on an Xring chain, you will dissolve all that nice thick factory grease coating the x rings.

Once you have CLEANED the chain SURFACE then spray a SMALL amount of Dupont Chain Saver on the chain. IMO, it is simply the best in the world. Its DUPONT for crying out loud!

DuPont Teflon Chain Lube - webBikeWorld

Actually the Dupont Multi Use lube is not QUITE as good as their dedicated chain lube. there is small difference in the formula. The CHAIN lube is supposedly only available for INDUSTRY and not consumer use. Oh, in that case I REALLY want it.
I did finally find it for sale. I forget where. Ok, i found the place. Here. The chain lube is supposed to be SELF cleaning. Thats a tall order...I doubt it. But on the other hand it probably does not have the propensity to have dirt and and grime stick to it. Good stuff. Goes on juicy and wet and drys to a wax.

netMercury - Dupont Teflon Lubricants Aerosols Light Duty
 

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im gonna leave the chain to the garage (saves me sweating and worrying and having to buy a special tool)

i don't tour so chain changes are a rare event with the low miles i do
Thats the other option. I HAVE to to it my self because of the differnent chains i will have to use when i extend the swing arm. I may have a 6 inch set up for the track and a one or 2 inch extension for the street.
 

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Do you need to drain the cluth hydralic system to remove the slave cylinder for new chain replacement? The service manual says yes. But the Ducks instructions say no? Dont' want to have fluid everywhere by just removing bolts and hoping for the best.
 

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Do you need to drain the cluth hydralic system to remove the slave cylinder for new chain replacement? The service manual says yes. But the Ducks instructions say no? Dont' want to have fluid everywhere by just removing bolts and hoping for the best.
No need to drain it, or open it at all. It comes off with the drive sprocket cover and can be wired up out of the way.
 

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I installed a new EK prestreched Gold x-ring chain {on my fzx700 yamaha, I'm still saving for my XX} to replace an OLD O-ring chain, and got 3 mpg better gas mileage, AND I haven't had to adjust it yet, though I have 3000 miles on it. SWEET!! Phil
 

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Just done mine. Bought a cheap did type tool off ebay although had to splash out an extra £ 20 on a genuine cutting/riveting pin (has a groove in it) as this has a different dome profile and spreads the soft link to the correct diameter for the did 50vx and zvm530 chains. Bought a half decent vernier too. Took my time and was surprised how easy it was. My top tip is don't muck about breaking the chain with a tool. Get an angle grinder and cut one of the outer plates in half by cutting horizontally through the old soft pins. The chain will be off in less than 2 minutes.
 

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Thats some good advice on fitting the link especially with greasing and spacing which is something I have overlooked in the past.

As for chain lube I prefer a scottoiller and have a touring one fitted to both my BB's.
The reason I prefer them is that they actually keep the chain clean as its oiled. Granted it makes a mess everywhere else as the oil is flung off but it also keeps the corrosion down to a minimum.

any grit that is caught on the chain is flung off as its oiled and so keeps wear to a minimum too, I also use good old plain engine oil in it as the consistency is not that far off and it works for me.

I was also wondering why I couldn't find any torque settings for the front sprocket but it seems now that the info is not there for a reason that it does not need to be tight ?




I bought this chain off ebay and it was the cheapest . (it is an X ring GOLD chain)

Cheap is definitely not best but anyones opinion on this chain would be appreciated.

The after market front sprockets are not as good as the Honda sprocket I have noticed.

Ive changed the front for a 19 tooth which i think will take it toll on any chain just because of its design.

This picture is the genuine Honda sprocket which actually guides the chain more securely by not only pulling with the teeth but also allowing the whole link to sit as it goes around...



Its reassuring to see the Honda sprocket as its a sign of good servicing from the previous owner where money is not an issue as its not the original at this mileage.


This chain tool again was the cheapest but I think it will do the job sufficiently even if It Breaks after the first one...

 

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I just replaced my chain and sprocket yesterday!! Sunstar sprockets with a bike master chrome x-ring. Went with stock sizes. it took about 4 hours. Only because I bought 120 link chain and had to cut to fit. it took me longer to mark and count links then it did to do anything else. check check and recheck so I got the right link. I got all my parts from summit racing (power sports place division) had everthing with in 36. Tie the slave cylinder up don't loosen the line it will create a big problem. they are very tuff to bleed without a vacuum pump. Good luck!!!!
 

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Okay, I've done it twice now. Once on my '97 Blackbird and just recently on my '99 Blackbird. It took me about 4 hours the first time because I replaced the dampers in the rear and repaired damage to the surface of the rim due to rocks etc.
Second time only took me 2.5 hours because of better tools and experience from the first time. I was lucky compster, I only had 3 years of that awful sludge to remove. You know, that stuff that is left behind from "no-sling" chain lube. Ugh ! Sounds funny but I used a butter knife to scoop out most of it.
Drive and sprocket selection is: Gold link 530 OSR2 O-ring series chain,Tucker Rocky steel 18 tooth, and a Vortex Aluminum 42 tooth.
I choose this tall gearing because I'm 5'8 and 170lbs. I ride mainly on the highway, so its for fuel economy. I should get about 300kms, or more, a tank.
VortexRear.jpg
All I can say is,... take your time, have the right tools, and don't drink too much beer while your working on your bike.
 

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Dark Raevin said:
Sounds funny but I used a butter knife to scoop out most of it.
not strange at all, in fact quite normal in the Duck garage, I use an old household knife that has a nicely rounded end, perfect tool to start the job off, much better than the alternative :thumb:
 

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I am wondering about one thing Duck... take a look at this and tell me if its a big problem.
As you can see, I have a 530 chain on 520 sprockets. Do I need to put a 520 chain on ASAP ? Will it cause unnecessary ware on the sprockets ?
VortexRear2.jpg
For some stupid reason, Partzilla send me the wrong chain. I ordered a 520 and they sent a 530.
 

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Never good to run mismatched chain and sprocket sets, in my opinion.

T.
don't disagree with that but you can run a 'larger' numbered chain on thinner 'smaller' numbered sprockets (a 530 sprocket will only fit a 530 chain as far as I'm aware).
That said 520's are the narrowest sprockets and will probably wear quickly if used enthusiastically, why not chuck some 530 sprockets on .......
 

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don't disagree with that but you can run a 'larger' numbered chain on thinner 'smaller' numbered sprockets (a 530 sprocket will only fit a 530 chain as far as I'm aware).
That said 520's are the narrowest sprockets and will probably wear quickly if used enthusiastically, why not chuck some 530 sprockets on .......

"Yeah, yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could that they didn't stop to think if they should."
Dr. Ian Malcolm (Jeff Goldblum) Jurassic Park-1993 :smilebig:

T. "yeah I'm a dinosaur" B.
 
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