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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I think I need a new chain. I have just adjusted it and whereas it is within the green, I have quite a few tight links, so i'd like to change it.

I'm happy with most mechanical tasks, but have ever done this before.
I'm guessing I need a chain spliter, but how do I get the cover off the gearbox / output shaft.

Also, are there any tips / advice.

Many thanks
Gareth
 

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Simple task and there are several ways around it. My method is below.
Firstly replace the sprockets at the same time as the chain otherwise you could knacker the new chain in double quick time - JAWS will be able to sort you out with the whole lot at the most reasonable price in the UK.

1. Remove the cover to the front sprocket. This is done by releasing the 4 or 5 bolts (thin socket best tool for this) 2 of these hold the clutch slave cylinder in place you need not remove the 3rd slave cylinder mounting bolt but if you do it doesnt matter. Pull the cover off (need to pull the sidestand wiring out of the way probably) this releases the slave cylinder from the clutch pushrod.
2. Release the front sprocket mounting bolt ....... socket and leverage, stand on rear brake ............ just don't hammer the socket T bar.
3. Loosen rear wheel. Lift bike enough to be able to get the rear wheel out. (piece of 4x2 under the centre stand is enough)
3. Take 4" angle grinder and cut through chain on rear sprocket - why bother to grind the heads off the chain pins before using a press when you are going to bin the chain anyway!
4. Bin chain debris
5. Remove front sprocket.
6 Take the opportunity to clean this area well including the clutch pushrod.
7 Remove rear wheel. Replace sprocket. Replace wheel
8 Fit new front sprocket and hand tighten nut.
9 Mount new chain and join with soft link. (you will need a heavy duty chain tool to pein the end of the soft link over, although I have seen it done with a pair of large hammers - not nice!)
10 Adjust chain.
11 Return bike to ground
11 Torque up front sprocket - may need to stand on rear brake if bike is in gear. Replace cover and check clutch operation.
11 Enjoy newly found smooth ride!

EDIT - not the complete guide by some way but I've added in a few more 'steps'.
 

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Do people change the Cam Chain Tensioner, my bike has done 18k.

thx
The CCT is probably the most changed item on the Bird (excluding 'consumables). You can tell if yours is on the way out, you get a sound like somebody shaking a bag full or marbles! 18k is debatable, some have gone by 12K some last a lot longer. If the motor is quiet why touch it, if the rattle is present 3-3.5K revs is where you will hear it 'best' change it - half an hours work for a first timer, less the second time round. Oh and most of the time is taken cleaning the old gasket off the engine block :D
 
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Discussion Starter #7
The CCT is probably the most changed item on the Bird (excluding 'consumables). You can tell if yours is on the way out, you get a sound like somebody shaking a bag full or marbles! 18k is debatable, some have gone by 12K some last a lot longer. If the motor is quiet why touch it, if the rattle is present 3-3.5K revs is where you will hear it 'best' change it - half an hours work for a first timer, less the second time round. Oh and most of the time is taken cleaning the old gasket off the engine block :D
I think i'll change it for £50.
 

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The worst bit about changing the cct is taking off and putting back on the right hand side fairing panel ... ;)
 

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The worst bit about changing the cct is taking off and putting back on the right hand side fairing panel ... ;)
Lift the tank and then you don't need to remove the panel ;)
 

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Simple task and there are several ways around it. My method is below.
Firstly replace the sprockets at the same time as the chain otherwise you could knacker the new chain in double quick time - JAWS will be able to sort you out with the whole lot at the most reasonable price in the UK.

1. Remove the cover to the front sprocket. This is done by releasing the 4 or 5 bolts (thin socket best tool for this) 2 of these hold the clutch slave cylinder in place you need not remove the 3rd slave cylinder mounting bolt but if you do it doesnt matter. Pull the cover off (need to pull the sidestand wiring out of the way probably) this releases the slave cylinder from the clutch pushrod.
2. Release the front sprocket mounting bolt ....... socket and leverage, stand on rear brake ............ just don't hammer the socket T bar.
3. Loosen rear wheel. Lift bike enough to be able to get the rear wheel out. (piece of 4x2 under the centre stand is enough)
3. Take 4" angle grinder and cut through chain on rear sprocket - why bother to grind the heads off the chain pins before using a press when you are going to bin the chain anyway!
4. Bin chain debris
5. Remove front sprocket.
6 Take the opportunity to clean this area well including the clutch pushrod.
7 Remove rear wheel. Replace sprocket. Replace wheel
8 Fit new front sprocket and hand tighten nut.
9 Mount new chain and join with soft link. (you will need a heavy duty chain tool to pein the end of the soft link over, although I have seen it done with a pair of large hammers - not nice!)
10 Adjust chain.
11 Return bike to ground
11 Torque up front sprocket - may need to stand on rear brake if bike is in gear. Replace cover and check clutch operation.
11 Enjoy newly found smooth ride!

EDIT - not the complete guide by some way but I've added in a few more 'steps'.
My low milage Blackbirds front sprocket has play in it front to back and has vertical movement as well - is this normal or must it be replaced ?
 

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My low milage Blackbirds front sprocket has play in it front to back and has vertical movement as well - is this normal or must it be replaced ?
There should be minimum to no play in the front sprocket. If you can see the sprocket movefrom the axle then this is not normal. You need to take it out and inpect it. Hope the damage lies in the sprocket and not in the shaft.
Good luck and let us know.
 

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Before you throw it away though, have a long good look at it, and determine if the issue is the sprocket or the sprocket axle..
You could try posting some piccies here too..
 

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Fitted a new Honda sprocket and it has the same play - looks like the drive shaft is + or - about 1mm to long when protruding from the casing - the problem is the locking bolt washer pulls up on the drive shaft and not the outer sprocket housing - fitted temp shims to take up the play and the sprocket is tight - so will have an additional washer machined to fit over the shaft to take up the playbetween the shaft and holding washer - maybe shims in the drive shaft where not fitted correctley at assembley in the factory (who knows) , the gearbox and clutch drive assembley have all been working fine - will keep you posted
 

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Hmmmm 'vertical movement' I don't like if it is between shaft splines and sprocket along shaft I don't mind since it will assist in keeping the sprockets in line and not in a stepped relationship (lots of wear). Both my Birds have this slight along shaft play and I have never been tempted to take it up with shims.
 

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Yes vertical or horizontal movement (on the Y axis and/or X axis) is no good imho, as it shows wear between the axle and sprocket..
In/out (on the Z axis) movement of 1mm is ok and there is no need to shim it or otherwise...

Please clear up on the kind of movement you get on the sprocket!

Cheers, Chris
 

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Had info from a Blackbird 'Guru' the front spocket must have play to compensate for any out of alinement of the back wheel which would result in damage to the chain and sprocket as mentioned by The Duck. problem solved Cheers !
 

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Glad to be of assistance.
 

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whats the torque settings for front sprocket anyone ?




69ft lb for the rear axle nut it says in the 98 manual

when on centre stand there should be 25 to 35mm slack of bottom chain run at the midway point between the sprockets
G'day mate. Just do it up firm and use loctite thread locker on the bolt. It is better to check the chain slack with the rider weight on the bike. A little on the slack side is better than a little too tight.:)
 
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