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Submitted by: cbr99xx

This is how I installed my chain on my ‘99 Blackbird.

Parts list: DID/530ZVM120 (gold) chain
17 tooth drive sprocket
45 tooth driven sprocket (listing correct sprockets for the XX)
Special tools: Motion Pro chain riveting tool
Dremel tool with cut off wheel affixed
Torque wrench
Vernier calipers

I removed the left side faring.

I removed the drive sprocket cover. This appeared to be more difficult than it really was, the hydraulic clutch actuator comes off with the cover (no gasket required). I disconnected side stand kill switch in order to move the wire out of the way.

I loosened the bolt on the drive sprocket while the bike was in first gear and the chain was still tight.

I loosened the rear axel bolt and slackened the chain with the adjusters but did not remove the wheel just yet.

I picked a link and positioned it on the rear sprocket so that it could be reached with the Dremel tool. I then cut the braded part of one of the pins from this link.

Using the riveting tool (in breaker mode) I then pushed the cut off pin out of the link, breaking the chain.

I then removed the chain.

I then removed the rear wheel and installed my new (45 tooth for the XX) driven sprocket, torque to spec. (the nuts on the sprocket can be broken loose before wheel removal)

I then removed the drive sprocket (loosened earlier) and installed my new (17 tooth for the XX) sprocket, torque to spec.

I then cut my new chain to the required number of links (110 for the XX), remembering to… measure twice… cut once.( I broke this chain in the same manner described above)

I fed chain around drive sprocket.

Then I installed the rear wheel, leaving the axel nut loose.

I wrapped the chain around the driven sprocket and installed the rivet type master link making sure to use the supplied grease on the o-rings. I also shot a bit of the same grease up into the link holes before pushing the master link through. Using the rivet tool, I pressed the outer plate on the link (with o-rings greased and in place). Using calipers, I measured the distance between the plates on the links next to my master link. I then pressed the plate on the master link until I was just shy of the measurement I acquired from its neighbor. (When the pin is braded it will push the plate in a bit)

I then configured the rivet tool with the proper attachments to brad the link pins. The service manual listed a measurement for the link pin when it has been braded enough (.217”-.228” for the XX). I stopped working on the link when the pins fell in the middle of the previously stated range.

I tightened the chain, the rear axel nut (torque to spec), installed the front sprocket cover and installed the left side faring. I went for a ride (20-25 miles) and checked the chain again (I had to re-tighten).

After 16,000 miles my XX was in need of a new chain. This seemed a bit early to me but after some research this does fall into a ‘normal’ range of 16K to 23K (albeit at the low end of the scale). The XX had been doing touring duty and started life on a six day trudge up the Blue Ridge Parkway in the rain… everyday… in the rain. I am telling you this because many of you may remember that WD-40 is my friend when it comes to chain maintenance… not true with the ’bird. Being caught in a continuous down-pour I was concerned about my chain , stopped at a cycle shop and bought a can of PJ1. This chain has seen several brands of lube including the (manual) suggested straight 90wt..

The source for my chain and sprockets had 17/44 listed as stock replacements for my bike, as it turns out this is incorrect. I ordered the parts while at work (no manual) and trusted the vendor for this information… BIG mistake. The stock rear sprocket should be a 45 tooth unit… I have the correct sprocket on the way (looked all over locally, but had to order one) but for now, the 44 tooth sprocket will have to do.
 

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44 tooth is standard for the Australian bikes. I wouldn't be too worried. Don't know why the USA bikes are different.
 

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44 tooth is standard for the Australian bikes. I wouldn't be too worried. Don't know why the USA bikes are different.
I'm also using 44 r. It is only an rpm (and torque) reduction of 2% vs. a 45 sprocket so it doesn't mean a lot, and the speedo will read more correct than stock.
 

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I have a little trouble using the Motion Pro chain tool to rivet the link. I already screwed up a master link. I pressed the side plate on just fine.

I have some questions in this picture (it was posted by ConqSoft):

1) the anvil is on the back against the back of the pin head, correct?
2) now I screwed in the 'A' (red arrow) until it stops against the side plate?
3) now I screwed in the rivet pin 'B'
4) While holding 'C', I keep tightening 'B', until the pin head is flared to the correct measurement, is this correct? Or am I supposed to hold 'A' while tightening 'B'?
Thank you very much for any help!
-mike-

PS: is it better to position it on the rear sprocket like this pic or it doesn't matter?
 

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Just saw this pic on webbikeworld.com and it didn't even
screw 'A' all the way down to the side plate. Is this incorrect
or is it ok too?
Thanks again.
-mike-
 

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I have a little trouble using the Motion Pro chain tool to rivet the link. I already screwed up a master link. I pressed the side plate on just fine.

I have some questions in this picture (it was posted by ConqSoft):

1) the anvil is on the back against the back of the pin head, correct?
2) now I screwed in the 'A' (red arrow) until it stops against the side plate?
3) now I screwed in the rivet pin 'B'
4) While holding 'C', I keep tightening 'B', until the pin head is flared to the correct measurement, is this correct? Or am I supposed to hold 'A' while tightening 'B'?
Thank you very much for any help!
-mike-

PS: is it better to position it on the rear sprocket like this pic or it doesn't matter?
1) yes
2) yes
3) and 4) 'B' is called the push bolt. The rivet tip gets slid down the inside of the alignment bolt 'A'. Then you tighten push bolt 'B' while holding handle 'C' and the push bolt pushes against the rivet tip, which causes the chain link pin to "flare".

PS: the position shown in the pic is fine.
 

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Just saw this pic on webbikeworld.com and it didn't even
screw 'A' all the way down to the side plate. Is this incorrect
or is it ok too?
Thanks again.
-mike-
It can be done like that, but I never did. I always screw the alignment bolt 'A' all the way in until it touches the side plate (as it specifies in the instructions of the tool).
 

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It can be done like that, but I never did. I always screw the alignment bolt 'A' all the way in until it touches the side plate (as it specifies in the instructions of the tool).
Thank you, Paul, I appreciate your replies.

I read the Motion Pro instructions too but with the alignment bolt 'A' screwed all the way in, I couldn't tell if the rivet pin of the push bolt was pushed the pin head center or off to the side. Beside, it (alignment bolt 'A') didn't seem to serve any purpose while staking the pin head? (The force is on the anvil and the rivet pin, right?)
I thought if it could be done like the pic#2 then it'll be great.
-mike-
 

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1) yes
2) yes
3) and 4) 'B' is called the push bolt. The rivet tip gets slid down the inside of the alignment bolt 'A'. Then you tighten push bolt 'B' while holding handle 'C' and the push bolt pushes against the rivet tip, which causes the chain link pin to "flare".

PS: the position shown in the pic is fine.
I screwed up my master link because I was holding 'A' while tightening 'B' and found the pin back out at the back of the link!
-mike-
 

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Any body know how my speedo would be after changing my front cog to 16 tooth and with standard for Australia 44 tooth rear? any help the speedo was optimistic before this mod.
 

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Any body know how my speedo would be after changing my front cog to 16 tooth and with standard for Australia 44 tooth rear? any help the speedo was optimistic before this mod.
Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Gearing Ratio Sprocket RPM Speed Chain Calculator

17/44 =
1080 2160 3240 4320 5400 6480 7560 8640 9720 (RPM)
31 61 91 121 151 182 212 242 272 (KMH)

16/44 =
1080 2160 3240 4320 5400 6480 7560 8640 9720 (RPM)
28 57 85 114 142 171 199 228 256

So at 4320rpm you would be doing 114kmh (104 actual)but showing 121kmh (111actual) working on the speedo being 8% optimistic anyway :crap:
 

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Lucky the speedo is not in the front wheel it would hardly read at all! Have you managed to change yours yet Craig?its at least a must try and I think the bike is better like this.
 

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Lucky the speedo is not in the front wheel it would hardly read at all! Have you managed to change yours yet Craig?its at least a must try and I think the bike is better like this.
No I haven't changed mine yet, I was chasing a second hand one to try before I get a new chain and Bluear said I could have his as he is selling the Bird because of his busted knee but haven't heard back from him, I will have to give him a bell ( probably awkward getting around with a busted knee :crap:)
 

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wel I put my new chain on and I hear this noise when I ease off the throttle. It also makes that sound when I let her coast. Sounds like a whirrrrr. She is fine when I throttle up. So any ideas just let a brother know.:eek:
 

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wel I put my new chain on and I hear this noise when I ease off the throttle. It also makes that sound when I let her coast. Sounds like a whirrrrr. She is fine when I throttle up. So any ideas just let a brother know.:eek:
I'm having this same problem too, im "thinking" that the chain is loose and when you downshift/clutch in the top chain is sinking and dragging against the bar (what the hell is it called?) but when my bike is stationary the chain is touching this bar... im getting a new chain next spring when i do my first complete maintenance on her; new chain, new clutch fluid, oil, clean the k&n air filter, new rear brake pads (possibly grind the rotor, anyone know the minimum wear width?) and some other stuff, but im taking it to a honda repair shop, i know im gonna end up getting hosed on price but i would rather have it done right then done ignorantly <im gonna watch them and see how they do it so i know what to do for the next time>.... and whats up w/ this CCT i keep hearing about... how do you test it to make sure its good/bad... as far as i know its just a (well name implies) tensioner for the cam chain (honestly i didn't know they had one, i thought the cam chain was basically a "timing belt" <shrugs> im gonna lay down, now i just feel retarded...:loony:
 
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