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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Hey Malo! Forgot to mention picked up those spherical mirrors!



Sweet! However won't be putting any light in it like you did here! Hell of a job by the way!

Also picked this
up on Ebay from Suzuki 1250 bandit.(Thanks Fizzy!) ... Has "Hazards" and yellow trigger for flashing.





Also looking into these bad boys... For my Givi AND Beetle bags.

Pitking Products Quick Release Clip - Push Button Release



£31.58INC VAT


£26.32EX VAT​








Much more affordable than locking version at $210!!! FOR 2!!! Thanks again Malo for some great ideas!


Also plan on installing front cam in the nose, this time around, instead of under nose cone . Thanks Beestoys!



If allll goes well Hope to be on the road by May 1st!
 

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Couple of things to be aware of re: the Suzuki switchgear.
1. Blackbird turn switch is DPDT, Suzuki is SPDT. My solution was to use switchback LED bulbs w/clear lenses at the front as these bulbs have a built-in switch function.
2. Suzuki switch combines clutch cutout and horn into 3 wires. As blackbird clutch cutout switch is also connected to ECU, for peace of mind, I added 2 additional wires to Suzuki loom and used those to control clutch switch. That eliminated any danger of back feeding 12V to the ECU via the horn.

Lastly, I recommend NOT to peek inside the switch to see what color wires go where...like I did. Very hard to put back together. Kind of like trying to put a live snake into a shoebox.
 

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Also seriously considering investing in a cruise control system. I really like the one Beestoys has put together!
That was one of my best mods done to my bike.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Couple of things to be aware of re: the Suzuki switchgear.
1. Blackbird turn switch is DPDT, Suzuki is SPDT. My solution was to use switchback LED bulbs w/clear lenses at the front as these bulbs have a built-in switch function.
2. Suzuki switch combines clutch cutout and horn into 3 wires. As blackbird clutch cutout switch is also connected to ECU, for peace of mind, I added 2 additional wires to Suzuki loom and used those to control clutch switch. That eliminated any danger of back feeding 12V to the ECU via the horn.

Lastly, I recommend NOT to peek inside the switch to see what color wires go where...like I did. Very hard to put back together. Kind of like trying to put a live snake into a shoebox.
Thank YOU Fizzy! Will do! If I have any issues will be in touch! Thanks again! Oh! have switchback for front and LED in back... Also thinking of going LED for head lights. Not sure what type to get for front though... LED is fairly new to me kinda sort of! GREAT energy savers!
 

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And up til now no problems? Unwanted surges? Burned/corroded wires over time etc? What did you use? How long to install? cost!?
I rode my bike down to Phoenix and Beestoy and I installed his kit. I left and everything was good until I was cruising along doing more than 85 mph for more than 5 miles. My FI error light came up. Everything seemed ok so I kept going. Called Beestoy about it and after my trip he figured out what was happening so he sent me a different component that I swapped out in his harness and since then it has worked wonderfully without a problem. It looks stock because he used the control unit off of a 1500 cc Goldwing.

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Discussion Starter #29
I rode my bike down to Phoenix and Beestoy and I installed his kit. I left and everything was good until I was cruising along doing more than 85 mph for more than 5 miles. My FI error light came up. Everything seemed ok so I kept going. Called Beestoy about it and after my trip he figured out what was happening so he sent me a different component that I swapped out in his harness and since then it has worked wonderfully without a problem. It looks stock because he used the control unit off of a 1500 cc Goldwing.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Wow! Sounds great! Just had a look on ebay and found a few gl1500 right side controls ranging from $50 to $125... What else would I need? equipment wise?
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
As per Malo... Making holes for turn signal lights on spherical mirrors. (ebay $45 ea.) Yep! Changed my mind! Soooo installing turn signal lights behind mirrors! Will look so perdy! Lol However, my light will be blue.

CBR Left Spherical mirror.jpg Sorry folks! Pic just would not rotate!
 

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Wow! Sounds great! Just had a look on ebay and found a few gl1500 right side controls ranging from $50 to $125... What else would I need? equipment wise?
I do believe that Beestoy's kit is all inclusive. Nothing else needed but to send him the money and after seeing some of your posts I believe that you have the experience and know how to install it.

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Discussion Starter #32
I do believe that Beestoy's kit is all inclusive. Nothing else needed but to send him the money and after seeing some of your posts I believe that you have the experience and know how to install it.

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Great All inclusive! No head banging! Long live "plug N Play!" Thanks XXGUY... Should have no prob with install.
 

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"LED is fairly new to me kinda sort of! GREAT energy savers!"


FYI: The following will appear contrary to everything that is drummed into us on a daily basis about "saving energy is good".

On the bird, energy saving devices will add stress to an already stressed charging system. The OEM R/R (voltage regulator) takes in power from the stator and sends enough to run the bike thru the battery, the rest is turned to heat, and too much heat will release the smoke.
 

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"LED is fairly new to me kinda sort of! GREAT energy savers!"


FYI: The following will appear contrary to everything that is drummed into us on a daily basis about "saving energy is good".

On the bird, energy saving devices will add stress to an already stressed charging system. The OEM R/R (voltage regulator) takes in power from the stator and sends enough to run the bike thru the battery, the rest is turned to heat, and too much heat will release the smoke.
Yep so highly recommend you switch over to at least a MOSFET design R/R to remedy this effect somewhat.
 

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I'm running the biggest shoria that fits our footprint. It's a 315 cca version and lithium iron. It likes the higher voltage output of the series R/R jack sells and has been in here for 5 years and deep cycled a few times. Once completely flat and still keeps sparking. So I'd say no it's good to have the reserve capacity just in case. If nothing it gives you more range if you loose the stator and your not packing a spare.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I'm running the biggest shoria that fits our footprint. It's a 315 cca version and lithium iron. It likes the higher voltage output of the series R/R jack sells and has been in here for 5 years and deep cycled a few times. Once completely flat and still keeps sparking. So I'd say no it's good to have the reserve capacity just in case. If nothing it gives you more range if you loose the stator and your now packing a spare.
This is what I've been running for 2 yrs.

https://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/lithium-iron-batteries/sstz14s-fp.html

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Thank you Beestoys n XXGUY... Will go for 480cca.

https://www.jpcycles.com/product/220-3550/antigravity-re-start-heavy-duty-lithium-ion-battery
 

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Do some research on that maker. I went with shoria as they are proven reliable. The bad thing about lithium is of it goes bad your looking at a very dangerous situation.
 

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I've bought 4 lithium iron phosphate batteries from batterystuff.com. I shoria and three scorpion stingers. Both good. I see that they sell anti- gravity now too. They sell good stuff so I would tend to trust the brand. Trust but verify is my motto though so look for reviews... although internet reviews are sometimes a waste of time in the end! My 387 CCA is great and a bit less expensive!

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