[beestoys]

Yes the last i knew he will export. Here is the link to his site

Home

 

[PatooNet]

Thx Bee

 

[beestoys]

Your welcome

 

[PatooNet]

I didn't check yet Jack's website offer for FH020AA shipped to France.
I was ordering handle barres riser (28mm spacer) Ebay linked to this Shindengen FH020AA.
Anyone have tried this or any opinion is trusted genius part?

Thx

SHINDENGEN FH020AA REGULATOR YAMAHA 1D7-81960-00-00 GENUINE SHINDENGEN | eBay

2011 RS VENTURE GT - RST90GTAL. 2011 VENTURE LITE - PZ50VTAW. 2009 FX NYTRO RTX (DEEP PURPLISH BLUE SOLID E) - FX10RTRYL. 2009 FX NYTRO MTX (DEEP PURPLISH BLUE SOLID E) - FX10MTRYL. 2009 FX NYTRO MTX (BLUISH WHITE SOLID 1) - FX10MTRYW.

www.ebay.com

 

[beestoys]

Not sure
Jack's complete kit with everything needed is going for 134.00 and he says he's shipping overseas.

 

[fizzy]

PatooNet, looks ok but this is also from the USA. I agree with beestoys, just go with Jack's for $10 more and be 100% certain.

 

[PatooNet]

I need to ask Jsck, the freight fee adder to France, hopefully customs won't tax me (he should declare Bikers friends' present, no commercial part hihihi

 

[PatooNet]

Back to my story of rebuilt, from summary, time to talk about the brakes, pads and alternative brake rotors.

You remember the maintenance was a disaster on this BB, here are the
Hard-core pictures again...

Front discs are 4.1mm, good surface, I would run a new set of pad before replacement (after seeing the rotors prices).

Rear disc... only 3.6mm... no way!
Also the last set of rear pad were incorrectly mounted, the caliper never worked parallel, I bought for fair price a complet set of second hand stock caliper to replace it straight away.

Now the rear brake rotor... 160-180€ new...
Second hand... no...
Aftermarket models... reading reading reading on feedback EBC, Arashi...
Finally Arashi, for 180€, a complet set front and rear wawy brake rotor (the price of one rear disk).
Feedback are not bad on them (some front cbrxx forumers).
I decided to give them a try.
Ordered a 2000 model (golden discs) like my stock, from AliExpress.
I ordered from ebay UK, 3 sets of EBC 261HH metal sintered pads to replace all.

Next post for the mounting experience of these Arashi and opinion after 3500 kms.

 

[adeyren]

Somehow i have totally missed this post . Well done PatooNet for persevering on bringing her back to life.
Reg/rec? Buy the best, on bees recommendation i purchased the SH847 from Jacks 2 yrs ago? No issues since apart from a dodgy purchase rewound one, now resolved.
Lithium battery, again buy the best.
Injectors? Professionally cleaned. Don't ultrasonic clear them. Been there. 😢
Those dirty calipers etc? Use this stuff, it works. Dragon's Breath - ValetPRO- Wheel Cleaning Products

 

[PatooNet]

Thanks Adeyren.

 

[PatooNet]

How do retrieve a saved draft... U changed app, came back, my draft disappeared (I force many save draft as I lose many pages of post!).
Lose 30min writing draft!

 

[adeyren]

Had the same issue a few times now. I try and copy as I go along. It's very frustrating.

 

[PatooNet]

Resuming the aftermarket brake rotor Arashi wawy.

I just wanted to try the rear brake rotor first, not the most demanding in case of emergency braking need.

Wawy design/shape like or dislike is personal opinion, not subject to discussion.
5mm thickness and 4.5mm mini stated instead of Honda 4mm mini.
Nice smooth fine grinded surfaces, definitely flat.

Mounting...
First, removed the stock rear disc... spent time to clean the surface underneath the stock disc due to dirty and weel aluminium oxydes. Sand paper smooth to flat aluminium surface.

The Arashi inner diameter could be tighter to match the wheel recess diameter. Not too much play of centering but not tig ht adjusted like engine mechanical parts.
Each bolt hole on the rotor has a recessment diameter for the bolt head to sit done to the remaining disc thicness.
On the Arashi, the recessment is not as deep as original disc (missing perhaps 0.7-1.0mm,) as a result, the bolts heads sit higher once tighten. No danger, tights the disc well to the wheel.
The little problem of the bolts head higher, when I placed the wheel back to the swing arm, the bolts heads touch a specific area of the caliper.
Each bolt does touch, by analysing the consequences, I decided to "grind" the aluminium area of the caliper by turning the wheel, each bolt head slicing a fraction of metal. The bolt head are so strong, aluminium just been machined well.
Removed maybe 0.8mm, the heads don't touch anymore.
I repeat, I analysed the situation before taking this decision.
Look on this picture of a spare caliper, show you where the heads ripped out a little alu.
0.8mm not far enough to erase the 1/2 circle of aluminium.

This was the only little issue during the mount.

3500 kms after, how they are?
Well, rear brake on CBR XX with Dual CBS... not the best system to check how the rear brake slow down the bike by pressing foot pedal... as you know, press strong, even one piston each front caliper linked activation vs 2 pistons activation on rear caliper, front taking advantage on back braking.
I would say, they are doing their job, not more not less than stock rear disc.
My normal usage of the BB (no race track, no open road race, no mountain demanding conditions) it make no difference for my opinion. When I needed stronger braking, I can feel the rear disc is doing his job too but front again is the main stopper.
Finally this is a huge success because this Arashi front and rear set costs the price of one a stock rear disk (if I could afford a full set of stock rotos... I would do it but I can't, you saw my list of parts for the rebuilt...).

If some more experimented driver tried same Arashi discs with EBC 261HH (same disc with different pads would drive to different results I suppose), please comment as I don't want to be the one when write they are good but they are not finally.

Below 3500 kms after. Like new (normal for such low millage). You see the surface trace of aluminium deposite on the bolts heads, superficial deposited.

I will post the same test when comes the need to change the front rotors... More critical than the rear.

 

[PatooNet]

A little precision regarding the term of "machining the caliper aluminium with the screw heads..."
It is a not a motorised machining... I just turn by hand the rear wheel, each time a screw head touch the caliper, a micro slice of alu is ripped out, like machining process...
Please do not imagine I put on center stand, runs 1st gear and gind the caliper such way... Yeah, just a little precision, makes huge difference... lol

 

[lovinmycbr1000f]

Hello fellow pilot de chasse! Wow! What a job! Impressive tenacity! Learned sooo much just reading yur post! BRAVO! for bringin yur XX back. How are things now with yur XX?

 

[EBC Brakes UK]

Resuming the aftermarket brake rotor Arashi wawy.

I just wanted to try the rear brake rotor first, not the most demanding in case of emergency braking need.

Wawy design/shape like or dislike is personal opinion, not subject to discussion.
5mm thickness and 4.5mm mini stated instead of Honda 4mm mini.
Nice smooth fine grinded surfaces, definitely flat.

Mounting...
First, removed the stock rear disc... spent time to clean the surface underneath the stock disc due to dirty and weel aluminium oxydes. Sand paper smooth to flat aluminium surface.

The Arashi inner diameter could be tighter to match the wheel recess diameter. Not too much play of centering but not tig ht adjusted like engine mechanical parts.
Each bolt hole on the rotor has a recessment diameter for the bolt head to sit done to the remaining disc thicness.
On the Arashi, the recessment is not as deep as original disc (missing perhaps 0.7-1.0mm,) as a result, the bolts heads sit higher once tighten. No danger, tights the disc well to the wheel.
The little problem of the bolts head higher, when I placed the wheel back to the swing arm, the bolts heads touch a specific area of the caliper.
Each bolt does touch, by analysing the consequences, I decided to "grind" the aluminium area of the caliper by turning the wheel, each bolt head slicing a fraction of metal. The bolt head are so strong, aluminium just been machined well.
Removed maybe 0.8mm, the heads don't touch anymore.
I repeat, I analysed the situation before taking this decision.
Look on this picture of a spare caliper, show you where the heads ripped out a little alu.
0.8mm not far enough to erase the 1/2 circle of aluminium.
View attachment 130287

This was the only little issue during the mount.

3500 kms after, how they are?
Well, rear brake on CBR XX with Dual CBS... not the best system to check how the rear brake slow down the bike by pressing foot pedal... as you know, press strong, even one piston each front caliper linked activation vs 2 pistons activation on rear caliper, front taking advantage on back braking.
I would say, they are doing their job, not more not less than stock rear disc.
My normal usage of the BB (no race track, no open road race, no mountain demanding conditions) it make no difference for my opinion. When I needed stronger braking, I can feel the rear disc is doing his job too but front again is the main stopper.
Finally this is a huge success because this Arashi front and rear set costs the price of one a stock rear disk (if I could afford a full set of stock rotos... I would do it but I can't, you saw my list of parts for the rebuilt...).

If some more experimented driver tried same Arashi discs with EBC 261HH (same disc with different pads would drive to different results I suppose), please comment as I don't want to be the one when write they are good but they are not finally.

Below 3500 kms after. Like new (normal for such low millage). You see the surface trace of aluminium deposite on the bolts heads, superficial deposited.

I will post the same test when comes the need to change the front rotors... More critical than the rear.

View attachment 130288

Hi, We would love to hear your feedback about our products, fancy dropping us an Email to let us know your thoughts please? EBC Brakes

 

[PatooNet]

Hello fellow pilot de chasse! Wow! What a job! Impressive tenacity! Learned sooo much just reading yur post! BRAVO! for bringin yur XX back. How are things now with yur XX?

Hi there.
Sorry, struggled.
Thank you for tyour post, my1100xx is fine.
No bad surprise since she is been rebuilt.
I bought a new 2000 Fuel Pressure Regulation, I thought I could get better millage than my 2002 FPR which has a higher Set Pressure.
Not sure this helps, I think I will reinstall my 2002 FPR, because no significant improvement in millage.
My exhaust get more "carbon dust" in the exit pipe, means probably less efficient combustion. Not worth it if you don't have both FPR.

As I am only 1.70m tall, I am a little short, wanted to be less weight on my handle bars for comfort.
Not easy to find 800VFR VTec >2002 second hand, so bought the brand-new machined raiser from UK on ebay.

They helped, still more comfy than before, 77euros.

I ride once with 1 or 2 degC... felt cold after 30 minutes (I don't need to ride in winter) but wanted to try heating grip, just to see...
I wanted simple and efficient and for resonable price, if I don't like, just drop, cost me nothing...
Bought againt from Ali, these 10.50euros. Hahaha, like the left grip integrated switch on button.
Finally, works fairly good for the price and doesn't looks like cheap grip and heat great. I keep them hahaha

Finally, everything I bought from ali worked well except one original like Rectifier/Regulator.

I just have one new concern recently, some one may advise how to fix it:
My rear brake pedal fell spongeous, needed one single pump then bite hard. I guess this is sophisticated Dual-CBS system... I don't know what to try first...

Take care!

 

[lovinmycbr1000f]

Hi there.
Sorry, struggled.
Thank you for tyour post, my1100xx is fine.
No bad surprise since she is been rebuilt.
I bought a new 2000 Fuel Pressure Regulation, I thought I could get better millage than my 2002 FPR which has a higher Set Pressure.
Not sure this helps, I think I will reinstall my 2002 FPR, because no significant improvement in millage.
My exhaust get more "carbon dust" in the exit pipe, means probably less efficient combustion. Not worth it if you don't have both FPR.

As I am only 1.70m tall, I am a little short, wanted to be less weight on my handle bars for comfort.
Not easy to find 800VFR VTec >2002 second hand, so bought the brand-new machined raiser from UK on ebay. View attachment 130971
They helped, still more comfy than before, 77euros.

I ride once with 1 or 2 degC... felt cold after 30 minutes (I don't need to ride in winter) but wanted to try heating grip, just to see...
I wanted simple and efficient and for resonable price, if I don't like, just drop, cost me nothing...
Bought againt from Ali, these 10.50euros. Hahaha, like the left grip integrated switch on button.
Finally, works fairly good for the price and doesn't looks like cheap grip and heat great. I keep them hahaha View attachment 130971 View attachment 130972 View attachment 130973

Finally, everything I bought from ali worked well except one original like Rectifier/Regulator.

I just have one new concern recently, some one may advise how to fix it:
My rear brake pedal fell spongeous, needed one single pump then bite hard. I guess this is sophisticated Dual-CBS system... I don't know what to try first...

Take care!

Great! Nice to hear! Ya know... It's "hit or sometimes miss" with Aliexpress. Hope those heated grips don't fail on ya! Or cause some unworldly electrical problem. Just sayin! In my experience cutting corners(Because I too can be a cheap bastard! 😄 ) doesn't always bode well with our birds... And in the end, ends up costing more. But hey! If it works with little to no problems then GREAT!!! Go for it!