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Discussion Starter #61
graphics abused BB, back brakes...
IMG-20200911-WA0004.jpg

Placed incorrectly, pad locked one edge (not touching disc) and other edge, no more metal plate...
Rear disc thickness 3.4mm (min limit: 4mm, origin new : 5mm).
IMG-20200911-WA0009.jpg

Swing arm chain protection slider... in 2 pieces...

And now the final idea of the BB I was about to rebuild...
Scared ?
Would you try to rebuild this one?
I tried...
IMG-20200911-WA0006.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #62
It can cold check good. But running you want a minimum 50 VAC on each leg within 2 to 3 VAC for each phase. If you don't have both your losing the stator.
Still 4000rpm to measure the AC voltage ? Can't remember the Haynes handbook figures.

BTW, I have my stock R/R under the seat... near back lamp area... ready to change of the low cost mosfet failed on the road (check with coming soon voltmeter sit o. Dashboard).
 

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No 5000
Hell yes I would. Check here we brought this one back.
 
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Discussion Starter #64
Hi all,
It been 20 days I did not post... Sorry.
I have had some issue since, regarding the 12v power as you know.
As suggested, I installed a small digital displayer (mini 3) to survey my power voltage.
Here is the history of the my electric curcuit/components since I started to rebuilt my BB.

When I restarted my engine, battery was drained fully empty during tests, unable to charge the new Lithium-ion battery by the bike itself.
The Stator was stock.
The R/R was stock but something must be dead.
I decided to buy a cheap chinese stock looks like R/R as well a stock but used stator, in case of...
The stock used stator arrived first (quite dark baked color vs mine) I swapped it with my original stock stator.
Still no charging battery.
The cheap chinese R/R arrived then, I tested it, output wires from the cheap R/R melted within 5min... bad choice or bad product.
I then bought a stock used R/R which looks fine and looks to work well.
I though the electrical problems are stabilised... Reading so much post regarding the problem of R/R on the BB, I ordered as investigation purpose, a Aliexpress R/R MOSFET tech (post previously).
I swapped the plug and may wire mod to my Stock used R/R to see if cheap MOSFET R/R can replace the Honda one.

The bike worked well for few weeks...
One day, I noticed the battery voltage after a ride was only 12.7 volts vompare the usual 13.3V.
I decided to carry under my seat, the Honda R/R I removed few week ahead yo treat the cheap MOSFET.
I did it right because 2 days later, in trafic red light, my engine stopped. I knew it was the battery drained not charging again...
I swapoed on the road back to my used stock R/R. Same day I joined my friends for a full day roadtrip.
After swaping on the road I drove 40km to join the friends meeting point, refuel ready to ride.
After a short discussion on the gas station, we decided to go... my bike did start... battery drained out of juice.
It was Sunday morning...
By chance, Carrefour was opened, I didnt want to kill the ride day, I bought a lead battery and rescue start cables.
We can start our roadtrip.
I ran full lamp on all day, happy, no issue.
Last stop at the separation point we stopped for the goodbye (end of day 6.00PM.).
But my battery drained empty again... I was 75km from home.
We fired my engine with the cable, I knew I could go back home as could ride all day, I just need to drive without main headlamp.
It worked, I arrived home safe.

What happened...
I was with syock second hand stator.
Battery out of juice morning, swapped yo Honda sevond hand R/R.
Drove 45km to the friends meeting.
Battery drsined out of juice.
Bought a lead battery same morning.
Ride all day, drained new battery out of juice at 6.00PM sane day after the road trip.
Came back home with head lamp off.
Lithium-ion or new lead battery were not the guilty.
Honda Statir or Honda R/R out of order?
Was the Cheap MOSFET problem ( pulled it out same morning after 1 battery drsined out.
Not sure now about Stair or R/R. Only know the batteries are OK.

I dismounted the second hand Honda stator, checked its ohlmage, discovered the coil/wires are all beeping to the BB frame ground... my Stator is Dead.

Swap back my Stock stator, keep the second hand Honda R/R.

In the mean time my voltage displayer arrived, installed fast because I needed to survey my voltage.

BB worked well few days, but one day I went into Paris downtown, very hot weather. Plenty of trafic jam, too much cars, can't move at all.
The BB engine coolant was hot... the fan was running almost non stop.
I can see my voltage dropping during this heavy trafic jam (I couldn't run in between cars lines, engine hot hot hot.
Joining the motorways I could drive fast to charge again the battery thanks to high rpm, for 15km...

Unfortunately the even at high rpm voltage displayed was low... below 12.5v...
What is wrong or doesn't work, Stator or R/R...
I ordered a second MOSFET R/R (arrived) I could swap to the new MOSFET from the Honda R/R to see if this change voltage and charge the battery.

Yes, it charged, hummm is the Honda R/ R dead.

The second MOSFET from Aliexpress is good stable voltage.

Since then (2 weeks) I run stock stator and new Aliexpress MOSFET R/R (Marked LP2 with the white metal plate at the back).

Wait and see if this is the good combo.
I still need to confirm later if the first Aliexpress MOSFET R/R is good compare to the new...
I bought an infrared temperature sensor to make some R/R temp measurements in the future...
Stock / first / second mosfet:
20200919_224718.jpg
20200919_224812.jpg

20200926_124129.jpg

Mini 3 temp / time / voltsge displayer ( blue led) above the dashboard.
 

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In the car world, chinese electrics are taboo. F'n JUNK 90% of the time. Factory parts or very reputable after market is the way to go. If you go chinese, you are on borrowed time.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
I understand, I am checking if the MOSFET mod is the way to go vs Stock R/R.
I have the voltage surveil to check the systrm like milk on the cooker, so I can test "reasonably safe" with chinese cheap part first.
If the cheap MOSFET is promising, then next purchase would be high end MOSFET R/R, why not direct from Yamaha, will cost me maybe same as Honda stock Tyristors R/R.

I may offense some purists of genius Honda parts forumers, sorry for all chinese parts I told you I bought for this rebuilt.
I paid the BB only 500euros.
I am almost 3000 euros total now free of charge for hours spent on the rebuilt (don't get me wrong, hours spent, pure pleasure when success, I would pay for the time I spent on it).
This cost base on many of chinese parts Aliexpress below (I let you estimate if Honda genius even second hand or local parts):
  • front fairing spider
  • full fairing, front fender, came painted, vernished
  • 10mm heat shield foam for fairing inner faces
  • short levels brake and clutch
  • Front foot rest
  • full LED
  • turn light relay for LED bulbs
  • MOSFET R/R (2 models)
  • Lithium-ion 14Ah battery + intelligent lead/Lithium-ion charger
  • mini 3 voltage/temperature/clock displayer
  • Full Set F&R brake rotor
  • Stickers

Repaired from broken honda parts bought cheap:
- Mirrors pivot /glass / built-in turn light / mirrror fairing

Second hand Stock parts:
  • left Lever
  • Head Optic lamp
  • foot brake pedale
  • right foot rest platine
  • Swing arm chain protective rubber
  • stator
  • R/R
  • Rear Calipers
  • full set RIS/Key/fuel trap/seat lock and ECM (99-00)

Honda stock new parts:
  • Dust and spy gasket for forks
  • fairing screws
  • Oil screw seal
  • 1999-2000 and 2001+ FPRs
  • Cold idle stater gasket set (haven't reduce my cold stater high rpm approx 2300 rpm)

Servicing parts:
  • oil filter
  • K&N air filter
  • F & R tires RoadTech 01 Second Edition
  • rear wheel rubber dumper (transmission)
  • Fuel level sensor O'ring
  • Rear wheel fender

Exhaust Improvement (ebay second hand):
- Laser Duo Tech oval stainless steel slip-on (with legal dB killer, sounds better than original, sport mode is too loud for me).

Yes sorry if I try cheap parts first... pardon me Mr Honda, I still respect and very proud of my BB new life.
 

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Patoo
Understand what your trying to do but also be very cautious. An overvoltage at the wrong time can easily take out the ECU. So tread lightly my friend or that bird may go down another 15 yrs.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
This is why I keep tight my full set pf HIS key and ECU as spare. Model 2000 UK. Cost me 365 euros
I only display Voltage, any time
 

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PatooNet, be aware that the regulator that you insist on using is also capable of taking out your stator. This is even more true because you have gone full LED, which puts more heat into the R/R as it attempts to dissipate the extra extra amps that would normally be consumed on incandescent bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
"There is no smoke without fire".
Your are many to alert me about the risk for my BB to test/use unbranded MOSFET mod.
Base on my BB, what would be the best compromise?

How many of you tested MOSFET mod and regretted if or burned something?

I need feedback figures.

I can just accept "buy again and again Honda R/R and new batteries" as I can often read on XX posts.
 

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I've run Jack's for over 10 years now.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
So, many of you recommand FH012AA from Jack's garage MOSFET R/R instead of original Honda stock R/R?
 

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Discussion Starter #78
I saw this ref on Jack website, I didn't check the correct MOSFET ref.

I know now I need the FH020AA.
Thanks
 

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I do have one if his original 12s here actually.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Thanks BeeToys,
I would go with FH020AA
Is Jack's Garage selling oversea to France?
Maybe some link to UK trusted seller of Shindengen FH020AA, to compare price stead of import over the ocean.
Thanks
 
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