Honda CBR XX Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello together,

I would like to ask again wise members of this forum for advice. I separated the carbs and cleaned with ultrasonic.

I got a carb rebuild kit from All Balls (delivered from USA). My question is about the main jets.

Alll the jets were in my bird were 145.

The new ones from All Balls are two times 140 (outer cylinders) and two times 142 (inner) - like I read somewhere in there s forum.

I start reading, and according to all German specifications 145 is right.

The first birds delivered to Germany had reduced power to 98 ps. It was due to small rings before the carbs and another ECU.

I didn't find these ring at my bird and the ECU has following number: 971T

What do you think? Should reuse the old ones 145 or should I take the 140 and 142 and set the fuel mixture screw to a new position according to the workshop manual?

Thanks for any advice.
Best regards
Miroslav


Gesendet von meinem Redmi Note 4 mit Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,049 Posts
Mine is 140 and 142 and runs fine, bit of a flat spot at 3.5k but that's since the front pipes were replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
790 Posts
How have you assembled the collector pipe ( with the plate in it ) ?

I can't remember exactly which way around it is but the plate inside can be set horizontal or vertical when assembling.

One way acts like a carb manifold ( cylinders linked 1-2 and 3-4 )

The other way acts like an Fi manifold ( cylinders linked 1-4 and 2-3 )

The Fi manifold way would bring up the mid range and helps to get rid of the flat spot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,049 Posts
How have you assembled the collector pipe ( with the plate in it ) ?

I can't remember exactly which way around it is but the plate inside can be set horizontal or vertical when assembling.

One way acts like a carb manifold ( cylinders linked 1-2 and 3-4 )

The other way acts like an Fi manifold ( cylinders linked 1-4 and 2-3 )

The Fi manifold way would bring up the mid range and helps to get rid of the flat spot.
Now you're asking something, I can remember e mailing Delkevic at the time asking if it mattered which way 'round it went being as I read something relating to this shortly after fitting but didn't receive a response. If and it's a big 'if' I remember right I'm thinking vertically which means 1 and 2 are linked...I think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
790 Posts
Now you're asking something, I can remember e mailing Delkevic at the time asking if it mattered which way 'round it went being as I read something relating to this after fitting but didn't receive a response. If and it's a big 'if' I remember right I'm thinking vertically.
Do you have a picture of the header pipes and how they route to the collector ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,049 Posts
When I dry assembled it IIRC it seemed to only fit together one way and being as the plate is welded I can't see how it could fit the other way around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
986 Posts
Based on that picture - the plate vertical will act like a carb header because 1-2 will be one side and 3-4 will be the other.
If you put the plate horizontal it will link 1-4 and 2-3 and be like an Fi header.

I have OEM Fi headers on my carb bike and the flat spot is gone - it also feels smoother - especially when carrying a pillion.
That is great to know, I'd wondered whether there was anyone who made replacement downpipes for the carbed BB? :idunno:
I had to replace my original ones a couple of years ago as the collector had shit itself and only found FI ones and it's lost some of the top end rush she used to have :crap:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
So, back to topic and to my conclusion:

For the german version all 4 carbs have 145 jets from the factory, .

The carbs have different part number, so the ECU does.

For this reasons I decided to stay with 145 jets, but replace them with new ones.

My first order from partzilla with the o-rings for air-joints between the carbs arrived.
I wait for the next delivery from partzilla with more o-rings (air cut-off valve).


I ordered from partzilla, because one o-ring set cost 3,9 $ at parzilla and in Europe the same set 20 € EACH,
I need 5 (different) sets.. And I only talk about the o-rings for the air-joints, not for the float champer and so on..
Carbs.jpg
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top