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Discussion Starter #1
I've not been using the bike much at all this year until lately and when on a rare reccy I kept smelling neat fuel. I checked the main feed hoses from petcock to carbs and found a very small hole/tear near the end of one hose at the carb end, removed, cut off a few mil' then refitted and all was well but I kept thinking it might be time to replace them to be on the safe side. What a mistake that turned out to be as I now have a fair size leak from one side at the T join so have ordered two O ring sets...the replacement fuel hose was a tight fit so even after softening guess the force required to push fully on has disturbed/broke an O ring, or two . Sometimes I really wonder!! :bonk:I've read some old posts and it seems running the engine first to introduce heat will help when removing (fighting) the carb bank from the insulators, I realise all cables need to be removed etc. but what else should I be aware of? anybody replace these damn O rings that might offer some guidance?
 

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Please interpret for us English speaking Colonials... smelling neat fuel?

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Zips,
I think somebody else just lived the leaking Tee dream a couple/few weeks ago. Sorry but I forget the members handle. So related info is on site.

T.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Please interpret for us English speaking Colonials... smelling neat fuel?

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As opposed to a burnt/rich exhaust fume XX...not the sort of odour you'd want to inspect with a lit match.
 

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Zip your going to have to separate the carbs to replace the orings just be mindful of the balance springs between the plates. Take pics of the assembly before you break it apart. You should only have to remove the 2 outboard carbs. Also if the rubber boots are hard then you can soak them in a 1 part wintergreen oil to 3 parts rubbing alcohol. Soak them for about 2 hours then check them. You'll want a pan you can cover to keep the solution from flashing off.
 

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As opposed to a burnt/rich exhaust fume XX...not the sort of odour you'd want to inspect with a lit match.
Aahhh, as in gas odor as in a leaking tank and not rich from the pipes. Got it! Thanks.

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Discussion Starter #7
Must have luck on my side with this one, the carbs rocked off with a gentle lever using a piece of timber so no issues with the insulators. Once the choke bar and bank bolt nuts were removed I found that each end carb can be moved outwards just enough (with care) to remove the offending 'T' pieces while not having to worry about springs pinging everywhere. Possibly not the correct procedure but it looks like this might be an easy fix. The removed O rings have a slightly worn/flat profile so almost certainly bin worthy.
 

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Zips,
I think somebody else just lived the leaking Tee dream a couple/few weeks ago. Sorry but I forget the members handle. So related info is on site.

T.
WAS me..lol wasn't that bad really get the o-rings and take pics, give wifey some chocolates so you can use the dinner table for a few hours.
mark the hoses.
Mock up with the tank on a platform tomstart and run before final re-assembly to check for leaks as when re assembled it is tough to see down in there.
Re-synching carbs Beestoys told me was a requirement so I bought a carbtune pro 4 and it worked excellently and the bike runs perfect.
Yes run it a bit to get the carbs off of the manifold and still jiggle and wiggle as you are lifting eventually it will come, upon re-assembly I used motor oil to slide it all in place.
Good luck and mark and or take pics, I also put blue locktite on the long carb bolts that hold all of them together and torqued everything carefully.
Cheers
 

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Must have luck on my side with this one, the carbs rocked off with a gentle lever using a piece of timber so no issues with the insulators. Once the choke bar and bank bolt nuts were removed I found that each end carb can be moved outwards just enough (with care) to remove the offending 'T' pieces while not having to worry about springs pinging everywhere. Possibly not the correct procedure but it looks like this might be an easy fix. The removed O rings have a slightly worn/flat profile so almost certainly bin worthy.

You are lucky I shot springs everywhere and spoke Chinese a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You are lucky I shot springs everywhere and spoke Chinese a bit.
From what I can now see there appears to be just two springs that could ping off when pulling the carbs fully apart? but my tentative approach worked so I'm sticking with it, the O rings on the other (air) T fittings feel good and tight so I've no need or wish to disturb them. The carbs came off without any effort at all, maybe it's my enthusiastic use of WD and ACF over time that's kept the insulators supple?
 

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ACF 50???? Nooo, look what happened the last time you used that stuff :rotfl:. You need my Carbtune zip, give me a shout. Ill bring it down.
My aim is not what it used to be, truth be told I was probably trying to lube the seat catch.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You are lucky I shot springs everywhere and spoke Chinese a bit.
I thought I was fortunate but as a warning to anyone attempting this fix I did run into a head scratcher. When everything was all put back together the throttle action was a little stiff...revved ok but wouldn't snap back properly. I removed the cables, checked then refitted but it was still not right, I couldn't see an issue and had the carbs on/off numerous times. Turns out that when the outer carbs are levered apart the little cam lobe that sits between two small springs/screw on the adjuster bar (what's used when balancing the carbs) had re-seated within one of the spring coils as opposed to between the two, PITA to put right too. Still it's done, also I cleaned the bar/plate that operates the choke which is now very smooth and well worth a few minutes with some wet and dry paper, it was dirty/slightly corroded previously. IMG_20190812_162948.jpg
 
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