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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone.
After hearing the usual cam chain more I replaced the tensioner with a unit from JAWS last year. Although the noise quietened slightly it never went away and has recently become really loud once the engine has warmed up.
I have taken the new tensioner off while locking the plunger and have noticed that the plunger hardly 'plunged' at all. I have put the tensioner back on and the engine is still making a right racket.
It's almost as if the new tensioner is not putting enough tension on the cam chain guide itself is stuck.

Any thoughts?

Andrew
 

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Going from memory here (failing more each day) but if you have the CCT unit in hand (not installed to the motor) and pull the "install key-T device" before you put the unit on the motor, the contact rod should shoot out the end of the tensioner assembly to full extension. This will give you an idea of how far the spring will push the contact rod out toward the cam chain tensioner shoe in the motor. If memory serves..if you then insert a small blade screwdriver (or similar) into the same "install key -T device" location at the outside lock bolt hole in the tensioner unit and turn it counter clockwise (I think it's counter clockwise?) the tensioner rod will be retracted back into the tensioner housing against the deployment springs pressure. You can then hold the rod and insert the "install key-T device" to hold the rod in the "ready to install" position. If the tensioner rod is not moving either with the removal of the install key-T device...or not moving with the help of a small blade screw driver in the locking bolt hole..then I'd say that something is amiss with the tensioner. I may have my "direction of rotation for retraction of the rod " wrong here, but you should be able to manipulate the tensioner rod with a screwdriver type device to either release it under it's own spring pressure..or retract it with a rotation of the screwdriver.

T.
 

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Second idea: If we assume and you prove that the CCT is in fact working as designed (tensioner rod will/can move full stroke) then maybe it's the internal cam tensioner shoe in the motor that might be stuck. I've never done this but... You might be able to get a distance measurement from the top surface of the CCT install flange at the motor case down to the cam chain tensioner shoe in the motor and see if this matches the rod movement you see on your CCT unit. You may also be able to push the cam tensioner shoe and bit to see if in fact it is free to move and thus take slack out of the cam chain. As I recall, the tensioner unit does provide for spring pressure enough to do the job of chain tension control, but it is not a monumental amount of force brought to bear for the task..it only just enough spring pressure. If the cam tensioner shoe in the motor is somehow jammed at max slack..the CCT may not be enough to over come this jammed condition. This is all guess on my part. Have not heard/read of a cam tensioner shoe getting jammed.

Honda parts fiche shot may help make sense of my ramblings.

T.
 

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Wow great advice. . makes a little ashamed to say... I just it in my local shop and get them to do it... worked on cars.. but not on road bikes

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 

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Bikes are much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry for the late reply and thanks for your help with this.
I've manually wound the rod using a flat blade screwdriver and found that the rod seems to be not dropping properly, as if it is catching on something.
However, I've since bought a manual tensioner but so far been a bit reticent fitting it.
I'm worried that I may not put enough tension and knacker the engine. I'll have to give it a go though.
Any advice for fitting a manual tensioner?
 

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I've always found it rather interesting that the vendors selling the manual tensioner do not (at least to my knowledge) provide a "how to adjust it" info sheet of any type. Your question is not the first time that it has been asked on this site. I do not have any experience with the manual adjuster myself, although I am aware as to what and how it should work. Like you the big question for me is "how much tension is to much"?

A site search under "manual tensioner" or "APE tensioner" may turn up more info. For that matter, you might only need to search under "CCT". One can hardly speak of the CCT without the manual units coming into the conversation. Perhaps others may choose to chime in with their own methodology about the manual tensioner adjustment procedure they use also. It may come down to a "tune by ear" sort of thing. With the motor running you may be able to hear the rattle of the cam chain being reduced as you slowly turn the adjuster in removing the chain slack. That is simply a bit of guess work on my part though.

I would also attempt to probe for the cam tensioner shoe, as I mention in my second reply. If you can feel the cam tensioner at the bottom of the CCT bore on the engine case then you may be able to take some sort of measurement as to how far down the rabbit hole the manual adjuster needs to go before contact with the tensioner shoe is made. This distance (CCT mounting flange to tensioner shoe) could then be transferred to the manual tensioner to at least give you a ball park "start here point" so to speak.

The other option, of course, would be to try another OEM unit and see if the you have the same results.

That's about all I can offer on the manual tensioner front.

T.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you tigrest for your help with this. I'm going to give it a go in the morning and try to fit the manual tensioner. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.
 
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