Honda CBR XX Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Being new to the Blackbird, I am wondering if the cam chain tensioner causes the same catastrophic failures with cam chain jumping allowing pistons to hit valves, etc. like what happens on the VTR1000 Firestorm. I'm asking because the tensioner looks very similar, and on those bikes, it's a must to install manual tensioners.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,295 Posts
To my knowledge, this does not happen, as far as reporting it on this site. After a few tens of 1000's of miles, a very loud "bucket of bolts" sound at 3000rpm indicates a new tensioner is needed.

Note: the tensioner can be disassembled, and the spring tension can be increased from 10 turns to 12 turns, then reassembled, in order to give it a new lease on life. Note: this procedure is tricky if you only have 2 hands. Shout out to beestoys for this trick.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,704 Posts
As
Fizzy stated
Haven't heard of any catastrophic failures from them loosing tension. And I've had one let go and sound like a very our of tune Lory at idle. At first I thought there was a Dodge Ram with a highly modified 6.6 Cummins turbo diesel in it. It was that loud. Drove the remaining 6 miles home with no I'll effects.

As Fizzy also states if you got a noisy one try this fix. Gave me another 100,000 miles out of my last one I fixed.

You can fix it and reuse it. Here's what worked for me.
Pull the tensioner, at the base you will see a wire clip. Carefully pry that out of the groove. If you look you will see the plate has 4 wings 2 are larger that the others, mark one of them with a marker. If you also look carefully you will see a notch machined the comes up out of the groove. That is the perch for the tensioner spring. You should see a very fine wire in there. That's the end of the tensioner spring. Just get a look at it for reference. Now the sort of tricky part. Carefully lift the base plate up out of the body, keep a good hold on it. There is spring tension present, not a whole lot but still there. note your mark and turn the base plate 2 more turns tighter ( I want to say clockwise). then replace the hat back in the body reset the lockwire (little tip here I try to set it so that the ends are on the body and not across a gap). Your done,
 
  • Like
Reactions: Neophyte

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Great thanks guys! It's good to know it doesn't cause further engine damage when it fails. I will definitely check what it sounds like when I get to fire the motor for the first time as I am still rebuilding the bike that I bought. Hopefully before xmas but that depends on time available to work on the bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
482 Posts
I had to do mine at 32,000 miles, I bought a new oem one, and just put that in with a new gasket, job done.
But like the other guys put, you can reuse the old one, just give it 2 more turns, I still have my old one, put away and ready to use again.
Doesn't hurt to keep spairs.
I can't really see how the chain can jump since there is the top chain guide in the motor which could stop it if it got that loose, but I guess never say never.
If you do replace it, just take your time, plug the hole when the tensioner is out with something, I used kitchen paper, then carefully scrape the old gasket off.
When I put the new gasket on I put some grease on both sides of the gasket paper, stops it welding it self to it over time, and the grease repels oil so no oil leaks from it, then put new tensioner in, torqued the 2 bolts and new cush washers down, then took the retaining key out the back middle of the tensioner body, then torqued the bolt with a new crush washer, job done.
I didnt bother finding top dead centre to do it, took about 30 mins, most of that was scrapping old gasket off.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,704 Posts
Classic failure is, fire the bike warm it up. Then increase engine rpm. If it's going you'll start fo hear it rattle around 3k keep slowly increasing rpm. If it goes away around 4 to 4500 rpm it's the CCT.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts
No CCT issues here either.....mine was fine until 114,000kms when I got the death rattle.....new chain and tensioner, good for another 100k kms....... And my mechanic replaced one exhaust shim while the cams were out. He said it was a shade early, but doing it now will save digging down to do it in the future.......until then my BB had never needed a shim change, so I won't bother checking them for another 100k kms (y)

PS.....what model/year BB are we talking about? - mine is an 05FI with 129,000kms on the clock, owned from new. Reason I ask is some are getting quite old now and are probably due for some preventative maintenance like replacing the FPR, fuel filter, and inspecting the roof of the fuel tank for rust. Certain early models may need the "loom fix" due corrosion, and cooling systems need checking in case they have been neglected. Charging systems may be due for the MOSFET upgrade &/or stator coils. Happy hunting.


;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No CCT issues here either.....mine was fine until 114,000kms when I got the death rattle.....new chain and tensioner, good for another 100k kms....... And my mechanic replaced one exhaust shim while the cams were out. He said it was a shade early, but doing it now will save digging down to do it in the future.......until then my BB had never needed a shim change, so I won't bother checking them for another 100k kms (y)

PS.....what model/year BB are we talking about? - mine is an 05FI with 129,000kms on the clock, owned from new. Reason I ask is some are getting quite old now and are probably due for some preventative maintenance like replacing the FPR, fuel filter, and inspecting the roof of the fuel tank for rust. Certain early models may need the "loom fix" due corrosion, and cooling systems need checking in case they have been neglected. Charging systems may be due for the MOSFET upgrade &/or stator coils. Happy hunting.


;)
Thanks! Mine is a '99 FI with 45,000km on the clock. It is actually an accident damaged rebuild.

I will look at the additional items you mentioned but definitely want to look at the charging system like the MOSFET upgrade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
934 Posts
No CCT issues here either.....mine was fine until 114,000kms when I got the death rattle.....new chain and tensioner, good for another 100k kms....... And my mechanic replaced one exhaust shim while the cams were out.
+1 I changed the CCT on my 98 TiBird @ ~130 000km's because she started sounding a bit noisy, but it didn't really make much difference 😕 A while later I had the mobile mechanic give her a major service and he said it was actually the cam chain that was worn and probably not the CCT, he said I could change the chain, but didn't really need to as it wasn't anything to worry about at that stage apart from the noise 🤨
Early this year (about 5 years but only ~20 000km's) I decided to get the cam chain done along with another major service and it made it a lot quieter especially low down and at idle (no more chunka/chunka) so I probably could have kept using my original CCT :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts
:D.....the old chain was probably wearing the slider strut and the cam timing might have drifted a bit, so a new chain is a happy bird...... (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Para045

·
Administrator
Joined
·
12,998 Posts
The cam chains on the Bird seem to go on for ever, I changed mine at 98,000 miles and couldn't measure any stretch!
I replaced the sliders at the same time but they were hardly worn.

Back to the original question, if the CCT fails on its own catastrophic damage will not happen, the sliders and the plate over the cam sprockets prevents the chain from jumping. Totally theoretically if the front slider was stuck/totally worn out and the CCT failed there is a tiny possibility that the chain could jump at the bottom of the run but I cannot see that happening......
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top